Gloyale

Try using the tach output wire from the ECU instead. Since the coil pack fire groups of 2 (1,2 and 3,4) it isn't directly used to drive the tach.....the ECU has an output wire for that. It's a Black/blue strip wire. Should be able to access it near the ECU, TCU, or Cruise computers. Or, behind the dash at the cluster. It's the same color everywhere.....FSM can pinpoint the connector for you.

6" lift, with that much power you will want to cross brace the rear lift. Lean a 6" lifted rig into a corner, and stab the gas, and the back end wants to tuck under the car. Or more like the body wants to roll off the subframe. EA82's are a little better than EA81s, since the rear mounts of the "K" bar are traingular, and outboard of the front joints. But still, a crossbrace to prevent the "paralellogram" action would be a good idea. (although I don't see hardly anybody do it)

it's not that. Bowl vent solenoid is on the carb itself. It's the evap solenoid for the carbon canister. You can plug the port that supplies the vacuum.

Plug the EGR hole and you won't have an EGR. I did the same thing to put an EJ18 in my wheeler, using a 2.2 intake manifold. I would personally rebuild the engine you've got. A used J-yard engine is a crapshoot. Could end up burning just as much oil, or having a HG issue, or ????..... You've got a known good runner. Tear it down, put new rings and bearings in the block. New valve stem seals on the heads. Probably end up spending less or the same as buying a used engine.

Dumb question, but is the defrost on? Defrost setting will run the compressor and the fan. you could just pull the AC fan relay. Sounds like you may want to keep working ac though?

Rope in cylinder is a great trick......time consuming, but works well. Bumping the starter will not tighten, great for cracking that bolt loose though. Starter spins only one way(unless you reverse polarity to the starter:brow:) This is what I ussually do....works great as long as you've got a strong clutch. if not, move to the rope trick.

You can do that. Steering will be harder than just a normal non-power rack. You may want to try draining the fluid, and refilling with ATF w/ stop leak. DO NOT use regular, clear, power steering fluid.......that stuff will eat the seals.....might be that some was put in there already, and that's why it's leaking.

Looks like the Evap solenoid. probably not the issue with your miss. I would look into the condition of the plugs and wires, cap and rotor.

87 is the one oddball year of the carbed cars. Only year and model with a single diaphragm Nippon-Denso disty. They changed the disty, but never changed the specs, or the literature to reflect, even in the FSM. They were using up the last of the Carbs and hall effect distys, and so they actually eliminated alot of carb info from the FSM, and what the did leave, they didn't update to reflect the few changes, like the Denso disty, and a couple other vac and vent changes. I truly believe they meant to change the timing spec to 20 deg. with the rest of the SPFI and MPFI cars. I've always found that the 87 cars run better at 20 deg, than the 8 deg. spec. I set up all the 87, Denso disty cars that way and they run way better, no problems with ping or overheat. djellum, there should be numbers with those timing marks. The last mark is somewhere around 26 Deg. IIRC

Man I just don't understand the Weber thing. rebuild kit for a hitachi is like $25 bucks. you can do the most important parts of the rebuild with the carb on the car. I've done dozens, and the cars always run MUCH better with the new carb. Important parts: -o-rings for the venturi horns (critical for good spray pattern) -remove and blow out emulsion tubes. (this is the important one to get rid of the "dead spot" betweeen light and full throttle) -remove and clean out jets. -replace check ball, spring, and accelerator pump. I ussually don't replace the power valve, or the needle vavle unless there is signs of wear.

It won't do that for long. These aren't drift cars. I would treat your car better if you want to still have it when you graduate;)

we didn't get roller rockers with SLA's here. The EJ18 heads he's got should have rollers, but hydro adjusters.

you may be on to something. Perhaps it's holding until the engine get's too hot.....then with the pressure rise as the coolant start to want to boil, it leaks out to the pan. good thermostat, keeping cool, moderate pressure....no leak. Bad thermostat, get's hot, massive pressure....leak.

50 lbs is almost 20% of the engine weight. Doubt you'll get that much.

The under hood vin plate should have an engine code like EJ22E or EJ25D If you take a picture for us, we can I.D. it by sight.....moslty. single vs. dual port exhaust will tell something too.

I didn't think the 98 OBS came with a 2.5? should be a 2.2 in there, unless it's 2.5rs???? For that year, if it did come with a 2.5, it would be a dual cam (4 total) engine.

You can also simply unscrew the large fitting, and stick a US Quarter in there. Makes a perfect block off plate. The high nickle conttent means it'll never corrode open. $.50 to do both sides.......cheap fix.

Huh????? I know the early tunnels are slightly smaller.....but those cars did come with D/R 5spds. It will fit in there just fine. It's the 4EAT that can't be fitted into the 85,86 cars without bashing.

You may want to swap out for a gas tank from an FI car. It will have the baffles that keep fuel from sloshing away from the pickup. If you get one from a Turbo (MPFI) car they have larger outlet lines. But really, Fuel lines aren't an issue. Use a few adapters to get to the right sizes. The stock suby fuel hose is the same for carb as FI. If you have to buy any replacement hose, get FI rated but what's there already is fine. There's no need to remove the dash or instrument panel to do the wiring either. -Tach wire can be tapped at the Fuel pump relay, or at the coil. -CEL wire tapped into the connector for the warning lights -VSS, up in the far left corner of the dash, is a 2 pole "T" shaped connector, Black IIRC. It has 2 wires, Yellow/red and a Black. That is the VSS connector for dealer added cruise, works great for swaps too. -IG. Switched power can also be accessed from the Fuel pump relay.

Pushbutton 4wd 3AT Actaully pretty good tranny's. 4wd engages hydraulically, the instant you hit the button, no levers to move, nor vac solenoids or cables. Just slow as beans.

Timing belt. Pull the drivers side inspection cover to see for sure. good news is 96 2.2 is non-interference......new belt, idlers, and water pump, you're good to go

Yeah, it's not gonna want to drive well with spun/seized bearings. It's excactly the spun bearing noise....heard it many times. You will find the metal.

No, they didn't put the 4eat in a Loyale, or any other earlier EA series with the exception of the "fulltime 4wd", turbo cars, and later XT's

I do occasionally to pass, but then I slow down. My 84 sedan is the "classic" of my fleet, completely stock, and I'm trying to preserve it. I'd swap for a 5spd if you need to drive 70-75 all the time.

Or think of the fact that the national speed limit when the car was designed was 55. They left you room to hit 70-75mph, but not to cruise there. My 84 4wd sedan has the same trans. Highway speed is 50-60, unless I want to burn alot of unecesary gas. On the upside, If you drive 50mph in it everywhere, you get great milage:lol: