Gloyale

NO! fill it with coolant first. Then add more once it's running

It could be done easily chucked into a lathe.

Did you use the notches or the arrows. Notches = yes Arrows = no

DOHC fuel rails won't bolt to the EJ22 intake......not directly. the mounting bolt holes are spaced differently, and the tabs are on opposite sides. (2.2 tabs go out, 2.5, tabs go in)

I wouldn't get to "legit" about this project....you'll likely get sued and told to cease any production. If you just make them and sell a few here through the board you may go under the radar. I think pursueing a patent could be trouble. A)You didn't invent anything proprietary. B)In fact, you may have stolen already patented designs.

Not quite, There is only one line from a vacuum source, the one coming into the side of the "T" the 2 lines out of the top (one from each solenoid) run down to the 4wd diaphragm. There is a nipple on either side of the unit, one line pulls, the other pushes....to activate or deactivate the 4wd.

No on the 90 degrees.......at least by the factory specs. Neither EA or EJ engines use torque to yeild bolts.

I"ve never heard of anyone making them except Crossbred performance in Australia. Shorti, I myself am definately interested.

That crimp under the seat is a common problem. It's been discussed here before, but somehow isn't in the USRM???? I did notice AKghandi talks about it at the end of Txakura's power window thread. (that thread covers door jam wire breakage) Someone should take a picture while there carpet is out, to add it to the USRM.

those will work also for EA81 stock brakes FWD or 4WD.

I have an 86 GL with a 2.2, and a 4.11 AWD 5spd. It definately transfers power, even with some wheel spin(which isn't much, and will be less with an EA82T) A 4x4 trans will be just a FWD trans any time you are on the road = no drive to rear, no drive to front if one spins other will get no power. Also, the stock EA71 crossmember isn't going to fit an EA82T very well. If anything......use SPFI pistons, and run that EA82 as non-turbo....you'll be happier in the long run. Sounds like you don't really want opinions though.....you want validation for a project that has some serious flaws in the plan. Sorry if we aren't giving you the answers you want.

FWD shoes don't have the notch for the auto adjuster mechanism. You can use 4wd shoes on 2wd, but not 2wd shoes on a 4wd.

I'm not sure you're going to fit an EA82 or an EJ between the framerails without modification. The Ea82 has the disty in the back corner...EJ might be easier, and definately a better motor choice. As for trans, go with the AWD 5spd....3.9 or even a 3.54 from a WRX would be great. But a 3.9 legacy trans would be great too. On road, you've got all 4 wheels down most of the time, so a bit of wheel spin at one wheel and you'll still get some power through the LSD to the rest of the wheels. The full time w/difflock is good too, but if you're not offroading, you don't need "lock". On road, it's a true open diff, so one wheel spinning and you DO lose all drive to the others. These trans are best for cars that see alot of mixed on/off road driving. my vote: EJ18 or 22 w/3.9 AWD trans.

There are some GM cars (buick, chevy, pontiac, olds) with the 3300 and 3800 engines that have a hose with a plastic "T" formed into them. IIRC, 2 sides are smaller, and the other is larger. Maybe look into something like that?

That definately needs to be dropped. Flipping it will help, but really I'd put some 2-4" spacers in there. Without them, you will have a lot of your torque displaced into "arching" of the driveline when you are wheelin.

Eventually yes, you will. or you will break the stubs of the diff.

4cyl radiator sits on mounts bolted to the lower support. dropped down, and into the engine bay a bit. 6cyl radiator is poked up into the snout more, up on the support itself. additionally, the H6 has seperate return lines for each side of the engine. There are 2 upper hoses, one at either side(1-1/4") and one feed at the bottom back to the waterpump(1-1/2") You'd have to "T" the uppers toghether to use a 4cy radiator.

Radius rod mounts with 3 blocks, or at least 1 long w/2 holes and 1 short(per side) Steering shaft will definately need lengthed.

Not even close. It could be done with enough work, but it's far from bolt in.

Cam Crank Cam l l l

Because that's covered in section 2...engine. Under Fuel Injection, and also some under the emmisions section. I'll double check at home tonight from the 86 FSM. Codes for the early MPFI cars are different from later years, with 85 and 86 both having there own set of codes.

I've got some wider offset rims on my 2wd XT and they fit just fine. As long as the tire is small enough diameter to tuck into the wheel well, it should be fine. Not like a 2wd will see alot of crazy articulation or wheel travel.

You can check out my thread on installing an EJ rack in an EA82 car. It's doable, but you'll have to cut a hole in the crossmember, and bend the lines over a hair to clear the mount. Otherwise it's pretty easy. But, FWIW, EA82 racks are easy to get, bolt right in, and hook up directly to the EJ lines. As for the pump, hook it up and go....It'll get the work of installing the rackdone, and if the pump leaks or wobbles.....replace it later.....not like it's hard to get to.

Remove the boots, and cv's from in the cups. On the inside of the cup, you'll see a sheet metal cap in the bottom. Use a chisel ended punch, and chew up the disc , cut through until you can access the but end of the stub under there. Then use a drift punch, or take it to a press. If this is on the diff side, you can access the weird "E10" head bolt that holds the stub into the diff. Then take it out to the press.

yes, 4 bolts holding Torque converter to the flexplate. 12mm head, (m8x1.25) access through timing hole in bellhousing. If the intake is coming off anyhow, do it first, it will make accessing the blots easier.