Gloyale

If the car is 2wd you may just need to adjust the rear shoes. If not adjusted, the first pump of the pedal is just pushing the shoes out, and then on the second or third pump they actually hit the drum and build pressure. 4wd cars have auto adjuster....but it can be stuck.....or the rear shoes are way thin. I'd check into the condition of the rear brakes and adjust before replacing a master.

4eat weighs about 330 lbs w/ TC and fluid in it. I had one in my trailer the other day, stopped at the scales. Scale said 850 and I know my trailer is just a hair over 500 lbs. WaaaaY heavier than a 5spd. but with a true trans jack, it's not hard to get them in from the bottom.

Do a leakdown w/ compressed air. If you can hear air wooshing out a valve, either inatke or exhaust, you can pull heads and replace valve. If the air leaks into the crankcase, you've got ring issues.....probably better to look for a new shortblock. Toss that case aside for a rebuild later.

If you can't afford $2500 to rebuild a 2.5, you can't afford (and don't have the knowledge) to put a WRX engine in there. Buy a 2.2 for it. enjoy driving again.

Check the connector at the fan. The Green/white wire in the connector should have 12v w/ key on. if it does, problem isn't the relay. problem would be in the reistor pack, mounted to the far front of the heater box, drivers side.....could be unplugged.....if it was just bad, you'd still have speed 4. If it doesn't have 12v, then probably is the relay. relay is up in the dash, drivers side.....look for the one with a fat white, and a kinda fat Green/white wire.

I suggest the opposite. I've seen many 2.5's and some 2.2's with deformed covers. And some 2.5 sprockets that are just plain 1/2 notch off with the marks. The notches not reliable..... you can see this is the case in this threads pictures. lines on the belt are ussually more accurate. Although it's weird that the line on the crank is not on the right part of the ridge. still, i would say that it looks correct as is. Espescially since you can see there is slack in the belt, so when you pull the pin, the drivers intake cam will come into better alignment.

This is wrong. firing order is 1-3-2-4 1 and 3 are on the passenger side, 2-4 on the drivers side. one bank fires, then the other.

it's a cylinder on it's side, with a ball inside it. At the fluid entry end (back) there is a pin that keeps the ball from covering the fluid in hole. The other end has a "T" that splits the line sends pressure to the front right, and back left. (newer legacy only front left) When the cable get's pulled, the pin pulls back and the ball block fluid from escaping back to the master, basically becoming a one way valve. Now, if the holder is on a flat, or pointed downhill, the ball won't roll backward......ussually. there are a couple ways that it can happen and interfere with normal driving. 1) mis-adjusted.....level wise. Shim a washer or two, under the back of the holder valve........this will make it so you need to be on a steep hill before it will work. 2) roll backwards quickly, hit brakes and clutch.......ball rolls backward, locks brakes.......release the clutch once, and they should release. 3) very fast acceleration....slings the ball backwards......if you hit the brakes in this condition, with clutch in...locks brakes. any of these, should release when you release the clutch. I'm guessing you have or had the cable too tight. I would still suggest shimming a washer under the rear so it will not want to work on flats. worst comes to worst, it can be eliminated with a simple "T" fitting. Unless someone messed with it, the lines out of it go to the front left, and rear right.

That's pretty friggin sweet. Way to represtent yo:drunk:

Slow jet is clogged somehow. take apart carb and blow out all the jets and emulsion tubes. replace the 2 tiny orings that seal the airhorns to the venturi ports

Well, check that fusible link that supplies it first......it's the one most "in the middle" of the under hood fusebox. IF that's good.....gotta be the relay......it's Way up in the highest corner of the drivers side of the dash. It's brown, with 6 wires...mounted to a bracket with another 4 wire relay w/green connector(fuel pump relay)

I'll bet you've got the strut blocks in backward. they need to angle in like this _ _ \\ // Steering take out the lower bolt, loosen the top bolt, slide the coupler up and rotate till straight, then slide it back down onto the rack stub.

You need to bolt it to the underside of the tunnel. I've got 3" square block on mine. However, my shifter is cut and extended about 1" between the pivot and the linkage. This makes a short throw shifter. Before doing that the shifter was hitting the edges of the hole in the body, it had to travel too far. Also, I'm not using the 5spd D/R 4wd lever, I'm using the EA81 4spd 4wd shifter. The 5spd 4wd shifter is mounted to the base of the shifter....so I'm not sure it will work unless you can get that plate up into the cab again......which definately requires some extension.

Slow Blow Fuse under the hood in the middle of the fuse box. 30A right next to the "spare fuse" sockets

Yeah, wrong connector. Should be connector B82, 6 pins like this 1 .. 2 34 56 Blue w/yellow stripe wire, pin 5. connects to pin 6 on B56 of the TCU plug. Seems like you used connector B78, ......Labeled "Yellow", "data link" connector. Pin 5 of that connector is Yellow/red......switched power straight from Ig. relay. Provides power to the O2 heaters, pressure switching valve, and purge solenoid. That circuit is not directly connected to ECU...not as a power supply to it anyhow. So it's possible you just smoked the IG relay. Test the theory by applying turning the key to "on". Then, apply 12v positive to that same wire (yellow/red pin 5 of yellow data connector). That should power up the ECU, lighting the CEL. This will bypass the relay. If that works, then dig the relay out of the upper left corner of the dash, and replace it.

AT light on means TCU is good, or at least powering up. No CEL however means the ECU may not be. Double and triple check all fuses and fusible links.

Pull the handle......E-brake is on the fronts.

25 mpg vs. 22 = 13% increase in milage $4.40 Premium vs. $4.00 regular = 10% more cost. Slightly more cost effective, lot's better for the engine, fuel system, and driving experience.

3" pipe itself is too small. You need a coupler, cap, or some other 3" piece with a female flange end. 4" will be way too big.

Heads should have been machined the first time.

The turbo ones will crack in the exhaust port. Never seen it in a N/A head, but perhaps if it got too hot. look in the exhaust port, and examine the area where the "bridge" that seperates the cylinders' port meets the walls of the exhaust outlet.

Automatic seat belts

You advance the timing to maximum when you tune-up. Also, again, simply for the less ethanol, you will get better MPG with premium.

Hmm.....I never urinate in my gas, or pour it down the drain? I put it straight in the tank and burn it. Perhaps that's why you don't get better MPG? Dilluting it and then pouring it out? Or am I mistaken on the definition of "literally". But seriously you're just wrong about premium gas. Burns cleaner....and I've measured the MPG differences. Noticable power differences. Additionally, the new premium has little and sometimes no Ethanol in it which also helps with MPGs, alot.

Pulling heads only exposes piston tops. On the motorcyle engine whole cylinder comes off the block....not the case here. A headgasket set is cheap. And it will include everything and you'll know it's been done. While in there, you can clean all the crusty carbon deposits off the piston tops. (a brass wire brush tool on a drill or dremel works great) GD.....common, really better to slap in some leaky junk yard engine with ?xxxK miles? I say you got 90% of the work done to get in and do HG's....so why not?