Gloyale

You can start in 1st, and shift manually to 2nd. 3rd won't work. Did you check for sure that the car actually is 4wd? There were FWD, turbo, GL-10s. Although the air suspension probably means it 4wd.

The 2 wires from the disty go to opposing sides of the coil. Black to Pos+ and the other to Neg- Then, all you should need from the body harness is the B/w wire to Pos+ post. Yellow wire goes to Neg- side, that is just Tach signal wire....not needed to fire coil, but without it...the Fuel pump relay will not power the pump.

That sounds pretty good to me. It would be better if it was not the automatic. Also if it wasn't 31 years old. Also, the new gasoline is terrible. EVERYBODY is getting worse gas milage. Buy premium, you'll get more MPG and power.

Fail to locked yes. In that case the OP just needs to pull the rear part of driveline and drive. If it failed to open......it would suck in snow or mud, but otherwise drive fine, in that case again, the OP just needs to keep driving. If the car is undriveable right now, the problem is beyond just the center diff. DoubleDuh, what is it that the car is doing excactly that makes you think the diff is failed and it needs to be worked on?

Being a 95 2.2, use the whole intake, plug and play.... But really, all you need is any 2.2 intake manifold w/injectors, and you can just swap the 2.5 wiring harness and throttle body onto the 2.2 intake.

One under car by pump and one in the engine bay. Change them both.

BS They will work just fine. You may want to get the subframe spacers with them or you will be running your CVs at a steeper angle.

90-94 legacy stubs are the same bolt in type as the EA cars.

Tugging the cable will pull it loose from the back of the cluster. Pull the lower dash trim. Reach up behind the dash. Reinsert the end of the speedo cable into the speedo head. done

Hmmm...... aren't those the triangle ones int he later years with both Gauge and ECU signal built into one sender? Perhaps you got the triangle rotated? Hard to imagine but just a thought. Otherwise, I'd say bad or incorrect sensor.

The driven gear cannot be changed without removing the trans. And actually, I'm not sure you can interchange different size gears. The matching drive gear section is on the trans lower shaft. It is part of the spacer collar between the 1/2 and 3/4 gearsets.It matches the gear. I think You'd have to change out the gear and the lower shaft collar. Any recalibration for these cars would have to happen at the speedo.

Reman and new CV's for these cars are a crap shoot. They make noise out of the box, because the reman companies don't figure on the extreme angles that subaru CV's go thru. Espescially cranked up 4wd ones. My advice would be crank your front end down until you actually need it. Having a good reliable car is worth more than that 3/4 inch ground clearance.

This is not correct. Volkswagen never made a Flat 4 diesel. Early vanagons were all air cooled, flat 4cyls. Later ones had either a Water cooler flat 4 (wasserboxer) OR an inline 1.9 diesel tipped way over on it's side. This made them smoke like cheech and chong. Many of those diesel ones are also synchro 4wds. Granted, that is actually not a "TDI" just a 4cy volksy diesel. "TDI" didn't start till late 90's

2.5 Throttle body will bolt right onto the EJ18 (or an EJ22) throttle body. IF it's a Phase II 2.5 you will need to make a blockoff plate to go between to cover the IAC opening in the corner. It can absolutely be done with no more fab than cutting a thin plate off steel or aluminum. Also, not to flame, but something I've been noticing from you for a while. I think we would all understand your posts more if you used some punctuation. Your posts tend to be a single long run on sentence. It helps with the communication on the board.

Automatic trans? Shakin when you are stopped with foot on brake, still in drive? That would be the axles not liking the new angle so much. Should be fine but may want to get new axles.

This is what I was gonna say too. Take the EJ25 wiring harness (probably throttle body too) and swap it over to the EJ18 manifold. Biggest issue will be IAC. If nothing else you can cap it and you'll just have to hold your foot on the gas to idle it up for a few seconds when cold. Just an FYI it will be alot slower with an EJ18, and if too heavy a car you won't ge that much better milage if you try to give more gas to go as fast as it would have before. Let it be slow, and you'll save.

I hope these prices reflect some exchange rate:dead: Local trans rebuilders here do manuals for about $1200. Automatics $2000+ Pretty sure you can order a brand new from Subaru, Automatic for less than you are quoting for a rebuild. And he doesn't need a trans. Busted axle.

You've got a broken front CV axle.

High comp EA82Ts don't last long. Still not as much HP as a stock 2.2. I think you could do an EJ swap for half of the rebuild/delta/piston swap/280z injectors setup.

the other option we came up with would be to use a 4wd VW Quantum or Audi Quattro trans with hybrid front axles and rear driveshaft. Basically the same layout as a Subaru.

Your gonna be late to work alot Really don't bother. Were not hating on your ideas....we are giving you the best advice. EJ22. Don't waste time and money on the EA82T. You'll have a harder time finding parts. If it ran fine and was just leaky....sure....keep it goin with a little service. But if it already is shot, and needs a rebuild....put the effort into a more productive project. IN all likelyhood, that engine isn't gonna be rebuildable. Spun bearing, shifted sleeves, and cracks in the exhaust ports of the heads. Who knows what you'll find. Your car is a great EJ candidate. You've already got a F.I. fuel pump. You've got the MPFI ECU plug to find your Tach, VSS, CEL, Nuetral switch, start signal, and switched power. Read the EJ swap tutorial. and start looking for donors.

Does your filler door not close properly? Did they pry it open? The idea is that they'd have to be in the car to open the gas tank door. I can relate....I put locking caps on my old EA81's since they don't have a closing door.

The pin socket is the way to go. If you can find one, buy it. It will make instalation much easier. BUt if you don't have it, the punch method works too. you'll just have to clean up the edges on a bench grinder before reinstallation. bearing should only be $40-60 from AZ or other store.

Well, with fabrication you could make any hitch fit. But as for bolt on, you'd need to find one from a GL or Loyale model wagon.

I agree. 5-30 is too light for any subaru, unless you are in the artic circle. I run 10-40, year round here in Oregon. 20-50 when I take trips to the Southwest in the summer.