Gloyale

That hose at the back of the block needs fixed. Right now you've got a huge unmetered air leak. Surprised it runs well at all. Replace that hose. I put clamps on all my PCV hoses. As noted, make sure your calculating the larger tires into your milage equations. For every mile your odometer reads, your going more like 1.1 or 1.2 miles. my lifted rig with 235/75/15s is 24% off. so 5 miles on the odometer equals 6.25 miles

Well, first off...the VW diesel engines are 3+ inches longer than an EJ engine. Additionally, the flywheel of the VW protrudes way beyond the block in the back. VW trans has a very deep bellhousing to match this. Now to put one in a subaru....even if length wasn't an issue.....you'd need an adapter 4~5 inches thick. I have a friends who is a VW diesel specialist. He bought an old brat and we looked into putting the VW diesel in it pretty seriously for a while. It could be done..... But it would take a very thick adapter plate, and alot of modification of the front end, relocating the radiator. As far as I know, nobody currently makes an adapter plate for that.

a few main engine connectors, the transistor, and the MAF plugs. That's all your gonna need from the engine bay. trace back between those connecotor and the ECU. You'll never figure it all out in your head now. Just get the whole harness out, and start stripping off wiring....there will be a moment where you go "AAAAHHHHHHHGGGGGHHHHHH!" and feel overwhelmed, keep working.....and eventually you'll start to make sense of it.

pics?

The crankcase is part of the metered air system. If you have no other air leaks it will still run with cap off. But if you have another leak too, then take off the cap, it's too much unmetered air and it'll die.

check all the PCV hoses and the IAC hose connections to the air intake. Check the MAF clamp too.

I want these bad. I love that feature on my GF's Forrester, never new they made L series arm rests like that.

Here is the 2.0 version (using the other side old wagon trailing arm:D) this one swings out. haven't trimmed the bumper skin to fit back on, and I still need to figure out the liscense plate. But you guy's get the idea.

Looks like a corrolla axle. 4x100 bolt pattern at least so not a truck axle. gotta be from a Corrolla or Tercel, possibly an old Nissan,

If he's an ARBA memeber he should have access to the specs for EA82 4wd and ER27(6cyl) flywheel specs. JUst tell him to use the XT6 spec.

I don't see sway bar mounts so I don't think so. Also wouldn't have the bump stop in an XT of any kind. Bumpstop= wagon only

yes same t-belt kit

any of the EA82 non-turbo 5-spd stubs will work. I've got several in the shop if you really can't find any.

I need to make a new version of that tab it locks into though. I want to make one with a ramp on it so I can just push the tire up to close it. Right now gotta pull the pin out to close it. Also gonna put some brass bushings in there for the pin to slide on rather than threads of that nut. This is definately a prototype I built in about 4 hours.

This one? It's to hold the tire in the upright position. Pull the pin, the mount swings down. I'm testing a 2.0 version right now for the "Street" wagon. Similar, but will swing out, not down.

I wouldn't want a turbo engine w/ all it's extra stuff (and heat) cramped up under a westy. Keep the camper van durable for going to the woods. EJ22 Make the car fun and fast.....EJ20G

I run an EJ18 in front of a standard 3.9 D/R. My 5th is 7.80. 29" tires 4th gear is great on the highway....5th is fine for flats, and holding steady not accelerating. Now I'm thinking with 4.44 R&P 7.80 will be great. .871 might be too low geared for best milage.

Is anyone changing out the Front A-arm pivot bracket for the Forrester or OUtback ones when adding the crossmember spacer? The brackewts are different to put the pivot point down an inch to match the spacer. If it isn't swapped out, or spaced down, that bushing is being twisted. I;'ve never wanted to try that it. But is it working out O.K.?

I've had no problems with the 4wd EA82 clutch and the Flywheel machined to the XT6 spec. (shallower step, which makes the PP clamp tighter) IIRC 4cyl vs 6cyl .890 vs .815

radiastors in these cars are barely adequate to begin with. Needs a new one. If it only pushes out water when hot then it's not a HG issue it just needs a new radiator. if it runs cool to middle, but is still pushing out overflow, then it's the HG.

+1

My 84 GL had digidash originally too. along with Power steering, Power windows, sunroof, cruise and alloys. 4wd Sedan (3at) but not a GL-10 Could be anything really.....that year they were cleaning house for the EA82 introduction.

Got the good camera, better pics now. The others are hard to look at. Just a few here, lots more in my photobucket albums.

Also, you don't want the rears to be actually 2" from hole to hole. Since you aren't changing the pivot point, if you move the strut mount 2" down, you are actually pushing the wheel (6 inches further down the arm) down about 3 1/2" I see alot of these 2" lifts where the rear sticks up in the air too far, and the rear axles are maxed out. When I do this type of lift, I make the rear straps with about 1-1/4" from hole to hole......which yeilds about 2" of actual lift.

I've done them with a dremel and a $15 carbide bit. I personally find the smaller ones work better. Make steady passes removing just abit of material each time. If you get impatient and try to "dig in" too much it will just overheat the bit, and the dremel. If you go slow and steady, it takes about 2-3 hours to do all the holes.