Gloyale

The Black/white wire with the red wrap is the +12 from IG switch. The Yellow wire with the yellow wrap is tach signal. The 2 wires going to the disty are also color coded similar, one is Pos, one is Neg. The rest it seems like someone has tapped into IG. switched power from there, which is a bad idea. If one of them is a condensor, it may be needed on the Positive side.

Starting system shouldn't have anything to do with neutral switch in a manual 95. It's the CLUTCH switch that grounds the interlock relay allowing power through to the starter. Nuetral switch is for idle control and fuel cut for throttle off decceleration. (so it can know when your in gear+rolling)

I would also look into replacing the Radius rod bushings. when they get worn, the rod pulls forward during accel then back under deccel. changes toe every time it shifts. Makes the tire feel like it's rolling under in hard turns. Shimming a large washer on either side of the bushings will tighen them up a bit and give you an idea if that's the problem. EMPI Replacement bushings for Mac-Strut type VW beetle front ends work great and are available from any VW/buggy source.

Yeah, that should come from the Fuel Pump relay when Ig. pulse is sensed. If anything, it could work coming from the + side of coil. If you put it on the negative side it could be taking the pulse from the coil= no spark.

That's the hillholder. Not needed to do with the MT swap, but since you got it........hey hook it up. On an automatic car, you've got 4 lines....one out to each wheel. But on a manual, the hillholder act's as a splitter for one of the brake circuits. So on an MT vehichle, the master has 2 lines out directly to wheels, and the 3rd goes to the holder, then splits out to the other 2. If you got everything from the donor brake setup, you can just plug the extra hole in your master. Just make sure in the end you've got lines running to all 4 wheels.

You will need to disassemble the trans to do this properly. Pinion shaft has to be removed from the sleeve that the gearset is held on. You should look for WRX 5th gearsets and possibly late Forrester although after 98 the center diff and overall length changed. I assume pinion shaft changed but gearset itself may still interchange? IIRC Your current 5th is .780 , so your looking for a gearset with a lower number = taller ratio. 3.9 ratio trans would yeild similar results on the freeway, but your 1st gear will be taller too. Not good if you have an Outback, or oversized tires.

My lifted wheeler with an EJ18 gets 24 average in my daily life...which includes both rural highway and around town driving. Wheeling it get's 20 or worse depending on how much I'm spinning wheels going nowhere. My "street" wagon has an EJ22, Single rangePT4wd with 205/70/15 tires. On a cross country trip, towing 1500 pound trailer, it got 23. Around town, without the trailer it gets 28+. I should note, I have a lead foot, and I'm prone to shifts at or above redline.

Did you jumpstart it? If so, any chance the cables got hooked up backwards? I'll admit to having done this. It took out the internal fuses of my stereo, my CB, and my inverter. I'm glad it didn't affect my ECU. Just a wild guess.....you didn't really give us much info to go on.

They are vents. not supposed to be connected to anything.

Looks like the ear to the throwout bearing that the clip holds.

Is there a diode on the switched power TO the ECU? edit. looked and nope, no diode. hmm......you did try another relay? Try this: using a voltmeter (not just a light) test for any voltage between the Black wire and another ground location. If there is any voltage at all, that could be a problem. When the voltage drops off the green wire (ECU off) if there is a few volts on the ground wire the coil may be staying engaged, grounding through the ECU. just a possibility?

it'll rock forward a bit, but not much. I sometimes shove a piece of 2x4 wood between the alt mount and the upper radiator support to keep it from rocking into the radiator itself.

Did you make it tie into the forward crossmember? I'm thinking if not, that mount is going to rock up and down with accel/deccel force. I would definately tie it to the front crossmember too, like the factory EJ trans mounts.

I've been wanting to mount my spare on the back for a years now. Guess this thread lit a fire under my but. My mount swings down, rather than out.....which makes it a useful table and step to get to the roof. Down side is I it's a bit heavy, and lifting it back to the latched position is hard for my Girlfriend and the kids. my favorite part is that it's all built from an EA82 rear control arm, and a busted up CV cup. The whole assembly removes by popping out the roll pin on the CV stub. oh....and my good camera is AWOL, so the pics are from my old camera which does some, uhhh....interesting......effects to the photos. I'll post up better ones with the new camera later.

96 outback 2.2 will not have EGR. It will be single port exhaust. 95 legacy motor will have dual ports so yes you'll need y-pipe. 95 w/auto is EGR, w/manual trans will be no EGR....that would be the best.

Nothing really changed too much chassis wise on the legacies for the first 2 gens. (90-94, and 95-99) Pretty much interior and cosmetic changes. Obviusly, the Outback versions have a bit of a lift vs. standard legacy. And really, almost any 90's + subaru has interchangable struts. Get 99 outback struts....they are the tallest.

Forrester struts are barely 2" taller than facotry Imp ones. I think 3" over stock height is gonna put the axles at bad angles. Possibly even hit the A-arm mount at full drop.

Automatic is easy. You will just need to make an extension for the end of the cable and possibly a new mount to hold the cable case to the trans at a higher angle. Manuals are a bit harder. Gotta cut and weld a longer stay and shift rod.

It'd be great to throw into a slightly larger size tired rig. Like outback, Forrester, or an Impreza sport with Forrester struts and 215/70/15:D Or find a D/R fulltime RX trans and swap the lowershaft gearsets onto the 4.44 pinion and put it in a trail rig.

That's lower than 5th in most of the USDM 5spds. My 96 outback trans is .780......and I'm still turning almost 4k to do 65

4.44's with that size tire...........?????? You'll spend more time shifting than laying down any power.

I've seen a few bad front diffs in that year range. No need to change out trans. In fact, if your trans shifts well, I wouldn't give it up for a gamble on a used one. New front gearset and seals cost is about $650 from dealer. Drop the trans out, remove the front diff section, and the tail cover. swap ring gears on the diff, install new pinion shaft through trans case. reassemble.

Sweet ride! I have to say though, that if this is a highway car your gonna be disappointed with the 4.11 trans, espescially if it's from an Outback(geared for bigger tires). I have a 4.11 AWD in my wagon. With 195/65/15 tires, the gearing is still too low, both in first and second and for freeway. Your car is lowered, with smaller tires. With that small of a tire on the car, your gonna be wound out in first before you barely get moving. Lot's of quick shifts to stay in the right range. Highway cruising you'll be wound out to 4k or more. Now, you could throw a 5th gear set from a WRX in it.....that would help. Or like I'm doing, and go with a 3.9 AWD from a 97 Leg Brighton.

correct. If I remember correctly though, we added a shim under one side mount to correct the angle.

Drill some holes in the forward crossmember. Gotta notch out the bottom side of it for access to the nuts below your holes.