Gloyale

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation sooooo....just take a guess.......what could that port be open to???? The exhaust! You don't know what it does, or why it's there....why do you want to get rid of it??? just hook it back up.....it's there to cool cylinder temps under load.

the part of the gasket that is forward on the left side will be at the back on the right side. Same gasket both sides. Same heads both sides except for the machining for EGR port threads. Install the EGR tube, block off plate the instead of valve. although why you'd want higher cylinder temps is beyond me???

I've got a nice one from an 89 GL turbo here. got all the lines and banjo bolts too. Also got an uppipe and down pipe to go with it. PM me if you want it.

The Good... http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whiteline-Com-C-Caster-Camber-Adjusting-Strut-Mount-Subaru-Models-inc-2002-2007-WRX-STI The Bad... The Ugly JK.....I shimmmed my radius rods with a few washers as well.....partially just to tighten the bushing. I really like those whiteline tops:headbang: I am gonna pass on that control arm mount mod:-\

It could work possibly if you ran a drivers side cam drivers side cam on the passenger side, 90 degrees shifted. Of course, there's not really any way to do that without some adaptations.

Plug in the green test connectors under the dash. that will cycle the pump on and off constantly, keeping pressure in the rail. I doubt that will solve the problem. Pump could be running the whole time you are cranking and you can't hear it. or it could be not running for some ECU issue. I am guessing that you've got a Cam or Crank sensor problem, which could include the t-belt being off a tooth or 2. Verify timing belt correct. Then check wiring connections for cam and crank sensors. if that all checks out test or swap out sensors for known goods. If you are hearing the fuel pump run at all, the ECU can control it.......it's a matter of finding out why it isn't running it or other wise why it's not firing.

i think you'll end up with intake valves opening at BDC instead of TDC at least on that one side.

The switch idea sounds good. You could use a pushbutton switch from a S/R 5spd 4wd... it's a SPDT clicker, and you could prolly even mount it into the shifter:brow:

It might work if it was either 90 or 270 off. But I actually don't think so...try to follow my thinking (not sure of anything) You gotta think about it, the lobes of the cams are timed 90 (crank) degrees apart relative to the next firing cylinder. to actually make the valve timing of 2 pairs happen at once you'd have to make that 90 degree shift somewhere. going 90 forward with the pass side cam would put the #3 valves in time with #2 valves.....which wouldn't work out for compression with the piston arrangement. But #1 would be 180 from #4 going 270 forward (or 90 back) with the pass cam would put the #1 in time with #4. But #3 would be 180 from #2 The best either combo could yeild is to fire 2 cylinder toghether, and the other 2 seperate....like some freaky 3 cylinder??? So....you see, the problem is that the lobes on each cam would actually need to be 90 degrees further off on each cam (#1/#3 and #2/4) Custom cams needed. I think......

85/86 4wd struts are an adjustable design. in 87 they stopped making them adjustable. Most of the aftermarket ones are not adjustable, but if you are finding a # for an 85/86 only application that could be the adjustables. Or it could just suppercede when you actually order to the newer ones. I haven't seen new replacement adjustables for about 10 years now.......every now and then n ebay.

Because of the strange shifter arrangement on the EA's (i.e. first hold button) you have a situation here the "2nd" signal and the "fisrt hold" signals are present to the TCU in the stock config. When I had my EJ 3.9 in with the EA TCU, I had to do a dance with the shifter and buttons to get 1st gear with Torque conv. lockup for decel downhill. Firstly, I modified the shifter, a bit of trimming and it could pull the cable one bit further to the "1st" position of the EJ tran. Additionally, I had to hit the button for 1st hold......but I had to do this after I was out of second, or the TCU would think still "2nd" and not fully lock the TC. I dont know if this will be an issue using EJ TCU along with the EJ trans. Good luck.

This is silly. So really it's for no reason at all. Are you gonna pull the dash and reroute all the wiring so it "looks less clutterred and clean"? Is this a car or a china cabinet in the dining room? A car, it's job is to drive.....and you want to sacrafice it's mechanical well being for the "look". The stock air intake is quieter, colder, and allows use of more effective filter(K+N's suck for actual filtration) Stock Subaru intake, better in every way.

I disagree. The extra walkover height in the middle, and high rocker clearance is gained with a larger lift, regardless of tires. A 2" lift will let you clear bigger tires, but only with lots of trimming and bashing. I run a 29" tire, with an EJ18 and D/R 5spd in my EA81. no problem turning tires. 6" lift. Gives me tons of room for walkover of big boulders and steep waterbreaks. for an EA81 I'd go 4" or 6" for sure. Even body lift. Adding suspension lift to an EA81 makes for clacky axles and eventually will eat them.

Actually, the peak torque doesn't start until 4200 rpms. 2700-3700 is a good cruising range, but not really the heart of the "torque range"

Hydro clutch for sure. Swap pedal boxes and mount up the master and slave and you'll be fine. That's you're only option really if it's a pull type clutch. If it's a push type, you could just swap the pivot position, and use the cable fork. The big thing that comes to my mind is that the newer 5spds are a few inches shorter than the first gen ones. might make an issue for driveline and shifter.

Test the resistance on the sensor. 3000+ohms when cold 200-500 ohms warmed up to 190 anything over 5000 or under 200 indicates it's bad. I'm doubtful the new one is bad. I'm guessing it's a problem in the circuit.

Nope. Coolant Hose goes from crossover tube, up to the IAC, then another from IAC to the Throttlebody, then another from Throttle body back down to the heater return line to the waterpump.

I'd like to see this car side by side with the new BRZ or whatever the hell it is. The similarity is uncanny. Subaru engine mid mounted. Light rear wheel drive with toyota running gear. Now you just need a Scion shifter or something;)

Sweet. CB fits perfect. What's the big ol' clock deal? Every fozzie I've seen has a cubby with a lid there (which I very much like). I that some crazy reincarnation of the trip computer from the digi-dash 80's?

they don't often warp. They are .002 off from the factory:( At least that is the theory my machinist has. He says every single subaru head he cuts, is a hair thick at one end, lower corner. Swears the factory machine must be running too fast and is deflecting a tad at the end of the cut. I've watched the surfacing operation, and seen what he means.

Higher demand for Subarus in CO. Also, they don't rust out as bad so 15yr old car can still be in nice shape. Still sounds like too much though. I'd pass on that one.

You are gonna want to extend the linkages. 6" is alot of lift......your gonna need to modify the shifting. If not, the D/R lever won't even make it into the cabin. Best thing to do, is disconnect the linkages first. Install the lift, then figure out the linkage once the trans is in place Cut and weld your linkage to be longer so it makes it into the cab. While at it, you can cut the bracket off the lever, and weld it back on about 3/4 inch higher up on the shifter rod. This makes the throws shorter, so you won't have to move the top of the rod so far to get the shift. Make sure that whatever you do to extend the 4wd-D/R linkage does not create any twisting of the shaft. If that 4wd-D/R selector rod is twisted while shifting from 2wd to 4wd, it can blow up the aluminum interlock collar that holds the shift fork to the rod.

Unless it's competetive mud drag racing.....you are wasting time and money with a turbo. I've wheeled with a turbo car......constant heat issues. You want torque, not high end HP. And when the Radiator and everything else under the hood is coated in mud, the turbo starts to get hot real quick. and the D/R trans isn't gonna hold up to that much power with big tires. keep it simple....EJ22 or EJ25, or even a "frankenmotor" 2.5 block with 2.2 heads. Cheap, reliable, easy to wire up, easy to replace parts. Turbos are a waste for offroad.

I have a PS pump installed, but just looped back to itself. It's just waiting for a rack. Cleanest option is to use EJ lines from pump to crossmember, and EA lines from crossmember to the rack.

Check the clamp on the boot where it attaches to the MAF.