Gloyale

It can be plugged with a metal bolt. However, over long term, the metal heats up, and melts the plastic threads.....so I wouldn't leave a bolt in there long term. m10 x 1.25

No. Your subaru already has a cold air intake, WITH a water seperator built in. It's under the passenger side fender. Why mess with a good thing?

Are you getting the lower bolthole onto the stud??? Did you move the hillholder bracket and Negative cable boltdown?

Bolt it in tight and then re-check. It's pretty close clearances, having the starter cocked to one side or the other even slightly can cause some rubbing.

Trying to upload the PDF. But if you download pt.2 of that manual.......look in the diagnostic section, it's way down. This is the name of the PDF "MSA5TCD95I19351.pdf" about 3/4 of the way down in the diagnositic section. It clearly shows the ABS control module in the cabin...possibly under the passenger seat?

Flush the heater core with a garden hose.

Looks more like the shifter "centering" spring. If you look at the shifter select rod, and the shifter stay rod.....each have small holes. That spring goes between them. It returns the shifter to the center position, although it's not too noticable when it's not there. Still shifts fine. But if you had the shfiter out, that is where that spring came from. Actual clutch return springs (which most EA cars didn't have factory) are alot longer, skinnier, and smaller gauge springs.

Have the heads surfaced. But they look pretty good. I don't even see any "BTV" cracks. Don't do a "valve job" unless you are gonna put new rings and bearings in the bottom end. I would be tempted to split the case and do just that actually. EA81's are so easy. If you do that, do the rings, crank and rod bearings, and a valve lap with new seals. IF you are gonna just do the HG's then simply resurface the heads.

The heads will get cleaned at the machine shop during resurfacing. The block, since it's open deck, is pretty easy to clean when the heads are of. It takes some patience and some long tools, a bunch of rags or blue shop towels. I would definately flush the radiator, and heater cores. And next time........Add the antifreeze/coolant. Adding just water corrodes the engine, and water boils and pressurizes at too low a temp.......you can overheat with just straight water, even if it's full......boils.....overpressurizes......spews out......cooked.

No....not for 96 Imp. You, like I was at first,......are looking at a 96-98 Legacy FSM The Imp it's seperate units. Download the service manual link that was poster in this thread earlier. That is for 95 imp.

45 sec. in You can clearly see the driver side hangs about 2" lower than the passenger side. I would be taking that back to the shop.

He has an internally regulated Alt. no VR to unplug. to the OP....have you tried disconnecting wires from the ALT one by one? I'd start with the BW wire, pull it and see if the car dies. That BW wire is the one thing that really ties the IG. system to the coil.

All subaru converters the teeth are on the converter. Sounds like your problem is torque bind. Rear transfer clutches are stuck or otherwise engaged when they shouldn't be.

Perhaps new plugs, new o2 sensor and such could help. But honestly, 24 sounds decent for an auto trans car.

I'm not sure about HG failure, but I've seen pics of at least one 2.5 block that cracked off a piece of the cylinder,one on each bore, starting from those notches.

Looks to be under the center console? or possibly under passenger seat? I did find the chart but it's not a great illustration. Chart is in the supplementals section. The G sensor is on the passenger side of engine bay, mounted low to the inner side of the strut tower, down low.

Like this That was me at WCSS 9 or 10 (Astoria, OR) They are pretty rare. Only made for one model year, 84, and only in the USA. All were equipped with Hitachi carbed EA81 with a 3AT automatic. Most also had a few upgrades. Mine has A/C, P. Steering, P. Windows, Sunroof, and was a Digi-dash, although it's been converted They could possibly be the rarest U.S. model that era. Perhaps a few less turbo coupes? I won't consider selling mine for at least another 20-30 years.

Why does the drivers side pipe hang so much lower than the passenger side?

Check connector for that model ABS is actually a 2 prong, black connector. You can use those ground probes you found though, and ground terminal "L" to output codes. Although, if you can't keep a fuse in it, probably won't get a code.

Also, the wiring for the cruise is still there, even if you don't have it. So maybe check the loctaions where the cruise master switch, and cruise computer would be mounted.....maybe an unused connector got wedged in somewhere in the dash and is shorting out?

OK.....I think we may be looking at wrong diagrams. 96 legacy not impreza. Checking impreza manuals now.... It seems fuse 18 sends power to the ABS "G sensor" and "ABS module" seperate from the hydraulic pump.Still a Blue(L) wire. It actually doesn't directly power the pump. Pump power comes out of the ABS module. Also, I think the test leads and connector you found are for the Trans Computer. Looking up unit locations and test connector locations now.

3rd gen Legacy upper hose should work for upper. Switching to a Turbo water pump will bring the lower outlet up, otherwise you'll have to just make it work. I know an outback lower hose works for a 3" lift, perhaps with a turbo pump it'd be enough?

Fuse 18 supply's power to the Cruise switch, and the cruise computer, as well as powering a portion of the ABS pump. It's a Blue (L on diagrams) wire to all of them. Try disconnecting the Cruise main switch. check fuse. Still blows? disconnect the cruise computer. If it still blows, there is a short somewhere on that wire. My book also says Or/w and Lg/W colors for the diag. connectors. Is your connector shaped like this? 1 - - 2 3 4 5 6

Yeah, i've seen that type of setup. Fixes some of the issues......but not all. the cylinders are still very close to eachother........leaving a very small area of contact. expensive. And still you see that a 2.0 or 2.2 can't be bored to 2.5