Gloyale

You're alt is powering the coil somehow. Is this an out of the blue problem? Or did it start after some work of some kind? Does the charge light come on with the key? Then off with engine running? Try putting a diode in near the alt on the B/W wire. That B/W wire is backfeeding 12v from the alt. There should have been a diode in that circuit from factory, but it's not working.

This happens when people install the new bearing as a unit, ussually without any new grease. The packing grease is little more than vaseline for preventing rust in storage. to properly press these bearings, you seperate them and press each piece by it's race.........not the whole unit slammed in as that presses on the rollers. seperating the 3 parts also allows for a proper grease packing. Done right, there is no better way and probably ends up the same price or cheaper if you can press yourself.

So.....over the years, there's been lots of questions about "can I bore out my 2.2 to a 2.5?" or "why do the 2.5 have more headgasket problems?" To shedd light on those questions and others, I took some pics today of 3 different phase I, EJ blocks. JDM n/a 2.0 USDM n/a 2.2 USDM n/a 2.5 (dohc) Can you spot the differences? Here's the EJ20 cylinder barrel...see how much thicker it is? More cooling space between outer case, large area between cylinders, and lastly.....no notches in barrels for bolt access. Here is the EJ22. Pretty thick walls, but less space around for cooling. Smaller space between cylinders, and slight notches for access to the case bolts. Finally the 2.5 Thin walls, very little room for cooling around. Narrow space between 2 cylinders, and there are even larger notches in the barrel for bolt access. In addition to all this, this phase 2.5 uses SMALLER rod bearings???? recipe for disaster. Wish I had an EJ18 apart to compare as well. I can only speculate that they are even thicker walls, no notches, with lot's of room for cooling.

No.....Power goes to the yellow wire. Before the diode, there is a split that sends power out to the coil and a few other things in the harness. Other side of that split goes though the diode, becomes the light green wire. In the factory setup that wire splits from the Alt. 1 circuit, to the engine side of the SMJ, then comes in through it to feed to the relay and ECU. SO it's confusing and easy to cut since it doesn't originate from the ECU side of the SMJ. Plus IIRC, cutting just that one wire, makes the harness lay out much nicer. Anyhow....you need switched 12v to the center pin of the coil. Find the yellow wire to the coil in the harness near the engine connector. I think It'll be at pin 4 of the grey engine connector. Connect that wire to the switched 12v that feeds to the diode (connect) on the yellow side of the diode.

you'll definately need to extend the brake lines. At very least you'll need to relocate the position of the hardlines, and take them out of the strut clip no to the gas tank and fuel lines

Correct, the light green wire goes to both the IG. relay and to the ECU. But does the yellow wire at the coil have 12v? If not, it needs to be reconnected to the yellow wire, before the diode.

All the bearings in the front part of the trans on the upper shaft are the same as the old SINGLE RANGE Loyale trans.

Uhh....you did check that the throttle cable is not too tight? Otheriwise, I'd say you have a leak at the intake manifold.

NO not in 90,91 Manual has a 2 pin, single coil Auto, and 92+ have the 3 pin, 2 coil type.

The connection between the brake light and the HID headlights is the Daytime running circuit. The DRL's activate whenever the car is in gear, with the park brake off. not sure WHY it's lighting the brake light, but that is the connection between the 2 systems. personally I'd say ditch the HID's. They kill alternators, fry connectors, and they are obnoxious to oncoming traffic and should be illegal for road use.

I have an old set of 14's that were redrilled along time ago by another board member. He welded up the extra holes. Works fine but after years a few of the "plugs" have popped out of a few holes. So, he didn't get enough penetration......but if he had, I'd be worried about stressing the metal from the welding heat. They are the most wobbly, rough wheels I have, that's all I know. All the ones I've redrilled myself, and left the rest of the holes open, run smooth up to 90+ MPH. And if for some reason, I need to run them on a 6 lug again, I can. If I need to redrill a new set of holes, I can.

Should be connected to the switched power source. Yellow wire, before it goes into the diode, back out to the ECU. It connected near the diode from factory, then goes through the SMJ out to the coil. So maybe you cut it out of the SMJ by mistake? It's probably the most common error on OBD I strip-downs...becuase it connects in a round about way to both the ECU and engine connectors. It can seem like it can be cut. But needs to have 12v to yellow wire on coil.

All I have is a decent phase II block.............and a good phase I crank, rods, and pistons. I don't have a good phase II crank. And after doing a mock up assembly, there's no way it's workin without custom pistons. I assembled a phase I 2.2 block with a phase I 2.5 crank, installed one rod(2.5) and piston(2.2) It came about 4mm up past the block....... That would have to be a pretty thick headgasket:dead: SOooooo.... scratch that.....I'm building a 2.2 with the solid/roller valvetrain 2.0 heads.

So...my 2.2 in my wagon went "bang" No rod tossed out the top, but you can here it wacking around, and there is BIG flakes in the oil. So......next engine. current idea.... EJ25D crank and rods EJ22E block, pistons. JDM NA EJ20 heads (like EJ22e heads but with roller rockers, solid adjustement) this will yeild a 2.33. Common swap with the EJ22t block with STI crank and such.....but I'm just doing an N/A build. Now, search this topic and you get tons of "this works, that won't" stuff. But since this IS the internets, I figure I'll ask again here......so we can add to the mix. I'd like to ask that only those that have ACTUAL experience with this "stroker" swap to chime in. If it's too troublesome, I may just go with the "frankenmotor" 2.5 block w/the NA EJ20 heads.

+1 to what he said, and additionally, the phase II trans is slightly longer, and has different electrical connections. Won't work. You need a 96-98 Outback trans. Possibly a 90,91 legacy as well. Do you know if your current trans is 4.11 or 4.44?

I never said it can't be done. Of course it can:popcorn:

that's not the igniter. It's the boost solenoid, and the dropping resistor for the EA82 injectors. It can go. Although, I would advise not to cut alot of wires out of your EA harness. You should be able to fit the EJ harness in without cutting "out" any of the EA bundle.

Please PM me for orders. Be aware this is a side project driven by a love of subarus, orders take between 2-4 weeks to ship. new for 2012 pricing: 3" kit $550 4" kit $650 6" kit $900 New item: strut tops only., cut your own body blocks. 2" $200 3" $275 4" $360 6" $475

Looks like an awesome project. I have to say i'm in the "why mess up a clean, low miles, 2 owner brat?" You are kinda ruining the long term collector value. Don't get me wrong, your making it a cooler car to drive and own and enjoy for a while so I get it. It's just personally I would keep this one original.

It's not for stirring. The coolant crossover between the 2 block halves happens in a chamber at the top of the block. The hose connects to the high point in that passage. It allows any bubbles that would sit in that area to go up into the T-stat hosing and on to the radiator to vent out the cap. Probably not an issue to block it off, but it was put there for a reason......doesn't hurt to leave it and just put a new hose on it. 1 foot of 1/4 coolant line costs $.99

Helps if the motor dies. But usually it's a problem with the cable that stops them from working, and the Allen wrech doesn't help squat with that. I won't own a Loyale or a first Gen legacy because of the stupid belts.

Your statements of goals seems to be all over the map. I don't think you realistically understand that not all things are equally possible toghehter with this platform. Do a 4-6" lift, put a 2.2 or a 2.5 non-turbo in and wheel it w/ the D/R 5spd in it. Spend the money left over on really good tires, that's what makes a wheeler anyhow. That's the best combo unless you just want to have bragging rights and piss away alot money to break things.

Pretty sure somewhere around 96-98 they started using a aluminum plate. those are fine to reseal. Use "Right Stuff", not ultra grey......ultra grey will leak eventually.

Well, there was an actual difference on the cars in 97.....I guess just not in the catalog of where you are looking.

Uh....engine and treans are bolted solid toghether? How would they be out of alignment? I would suggest checking the gaurd plate that bolts to the rear diff, the shifter stay, and your exhaust. Especially if you didn't space the carrier bearing down the the same amount as all the rest. It changes the angle of the center driveline, which can cause rubbing of the driveshaft on the shifter and the rear diff gaurd.