Gloyale

I know that is the factory specs. However, all the ones I've ever tested....even the ones that run great with no oil burning, only test at about 125 psi. Not sure what that means......except that they will still run just fine with 125 psi.

I work on cars all day, every day.....I find lying on my back for 15 minutes, hurts less than bending over the fenders for hours. And, it's not my hands that won't fit in there, it's the 1/2" air impact for removing and retightening the flywheel bolts......

I make 2" , 4" , and 6" kits for your car. Be aware, that even with a lift, because of the shape of the wheel wells, you will still need to do a bit of "cosmetic" trimming to fit much larger tires. PM me for pricing and info.

Get 99 LEGACY OUTBACK struts. 235/75/15 will be as big as you can go, unless you get wheels with a deeper dish. With the Subaru wheels, the tire will hit the spring perch in the rear if any bigger. 215/75/15 = yes 215/75/16 = no

That's the FP relay. IIRC Black wire = ground Yellow wire = Tach signal Blue= 12v ig. switched Blue/black= 12v to choke and anti-diesel solenoid, and bowl vent solenoid. Blue/red= 12v out to Fuel pump

Exhaust, Heater hoses, Dogbone, Fuel lines, hillholder, throttle cable, MAF, radiator, Power steering, AC pump or disconnect the lines, Clutch fan if you got one.....pretty much all of it like pulling engine. Also, sliding the engine forward leaves you about 6-8 inches of access between the trans and engine. Hard to remove the flywheel like that. I'm telling you....unless there is some other reason to pull the engine......your better off just sliding trans out the bottom. It doesn't even have to come all the way out from under the car, just drop it down, and roll it back under car a bit.

Yeah, the single range EA and EJ cases don't have that. Don't just hammer or press. The D/R mechanism has expanded, and likely the oiler plate (sheet metal shim) for the D/R gears has probably come out of place too. I made a thread about replacing the front bearing and seal of a S/R case. Search for that, and it'll give you a good idea of what's going on in there. I also have a thread about a 4.11 D/R AWD.......in the end it only kinda worked....but lots of good pics in there too. Just remember....don't disassemble the whole tailsection. Remove the shifter knuckle, disconnect the D/R lever from the front of the case. Pull the inspection plate on top, and using a 1/4 drive, 10mm socket + ratchet and a skinny extension to remove the reverse lockout bolt. rotate the shift rod CC then remove the whole tailsection as one piece.

If there aren't crazy rocks or crossed up ruts, you'll be fine. If you get one wheel spinning, don't let out of the gas too quickly.....the VLSD in the center diff needs time to heat up and grab when you are in that situation. So if you get diagonal in ruts, with one wheel spinning, keep in it for a moment. The long and low front end of a legacy will be your biggest problem. Expect the front bumper to scrape approaching hills.

I think that EL means exterior lights. 1st position of the switch. I think your incorrect about the brat wiring too. Brats are ground switched, just like Legacies.

Different cam and crank sensor triggers. But if those were swapped, along with the intake any Phase II 2.5 or even 2.2 would bolt right in. Up to 2005. After that most enignes had AVCS (variable valve lift)

Just to clarify.....the solenoid assembly isn't in the TCU. It's in the trans. Changing TCU's won't do anything. Most yards in my area pull the engines, trans, radiators, diffs, and brakes. Basically anything that can leak in the yard. They drain them and store them in the warehouse. It's pretty hardcore around here for environmental stuff. I mostly like it that way too:D;)

Could also be the big main bearing on the rear of the upper shaft int eh trans. They like to grumble under load.

it's below the lamp. Screwdriver goes between the bumper and the thin metal band above bumper. Dead center under the lens.

Cut the rod in the middle. Find some steel tubing that fits tightly over the end of the stubs left after you cut. And yes, best way is to install the 2 ends on the car, cut the sleeve to fit, and tack weld it on the car to the right length. Then remove it and do a full final weld. Have a bucket to dunk it in. Don't weld either end for too long without dunking, the heat can soak in and burn up the grease and seals in the u-joints. Quick passes then cool. If tacking it in place on the car isn't possible (very hard on an EA82 w/engine in) you can simply install the ends, then measure the space between them and cut your sleeve to length.

Do you have any power to the yellow wires that feed the Injectors? Should be on the same circuit.

Green connector one is for the Blower. The Fuel pump relay has a BLUE connector. You shouldn't hear it click until you crank the engine. 2 Black/White wires with 12v coming from fuse 11 (check that fuse) 1 Blue/white wire power out to pump 1 Blue/Black wire, from ECU to ground the relay WHEN engine is turning (determined by tach pulse from coil) Easiest test is simply connect the 2 green connectors under the hood. Should cycle the pump and flash the CEL toghether.

Match the Torque converter to the trans. You may have to swap you're EJ18 flexplate onto the EJ25 ONLY use subaru MLS gaskets. I've seen them for sale packaged by "Stone". Otherwise, I'd get them from the dealer.

So....Check the IG relay. Make sure the thick yellow wires going into the IG relay and the FP relay all have 12v+ constant. This wire also feeds power to the Fuel Injectors Then check the Light green wire for switched 12v. This wire feeds both the ECU and the trigger for the IG relay. The thin yellow wire of the FP relay should also be tied into switched 12v + And of course, make sure the black wire of the IG relay is grounded.

Engine main connections are right there behind the battery. Perhaps the guy disconnected one? or maybe the hold down is pinching a wire? I'd double check the battery install.

I disagree. Removing engine requires unbolting the A/C condesor, Power Steering pump, Radiator, fuel lines, heater hoses, hillholder cable pulled from under the manifold...etc.... Removing trans, requires Exhaust, diconnecting shiftlinkage and driveline and clutch cables. Punch the pins from the axles, then drop the tran. Axles will come off once trans is moved back a bit...no need to mess with balljoints. Toughest part is getting it high enough up on jackstands.

I have a customer who has 3 of those rims on his old 81 DL FWD wagon.

Yes rear diff needs to match the trans. Direct bolt in swap. 95 and later legacy, the rear diffs have female recievers for the axles, instead of stubs......so for those models......either switch to older style axles, or swap 3.9 ring and pinion into the new style diff carrier.

I ended up using the larger Evap line as my return. Use the return line as the vent. IIRC...i swapped the lines at the tank though so that the return wasn't going up to the filler neck. Now....for power issues. So...no 12v to the Ignition relay? You're battery power wire should feed 2 of the IG. relay terminals. The IG relay should be either triggered directly from the switch in "run" (OBD 1) or from the ECU (ODB II) Which are you running?

Don't forget HighGuys. And to answer Splitboarder, yes you can extend your coupler. I don't think it's knuckl to knuckle.(EA82 w/ps IS, Legacy I think there is about 1" of shaft between) Even if you had a knuckle to knuckle setup in there, just go to a junkyard, and get a donor from an outback to cut and sleeve. I've got kits on several newer Legacies, Outbacks, and Forresters.

You could get a bit of lift by simply installing 2000-04 Outback struts/shocks. If that isn't enough for you, I make a 2" kit for that model for $250. Simple strut tops only, no steering coupler or dogbone mods. I have a 4" and a 6" kit also. Price on those varies depending on my real steel costs when ordered. These kits are full subframe drop kits, so the blocks of steel can be pretty expensive when you start talking about 6" blocks. PM me for details.