Gloyale

You can replace the bearings and seals. That's the best that you can do. As far as loose stubs.....that's not a bearing issue. It's actually the carrier and spiders that hold the stub. The spiders just ride inside a hardened lip in the carrier, that get's worn, and that is what causes wobbly stubs. To fix that you need a new carrier. Good news is they can be sourced from ANY 5spd. FWIW, the cost of all the seals and most of the major bearings was about $350 from the dealer last one I did.

Could be a dry wheel bearing. Mine was doing that after some flood crossings. (look up "mary's river flooding philomath" on youtube to see some. no subaru footage though) Anyhow, the bearing was pretty new, and thunking so loud and rythmic I was convinced it was a pinion tooth. Drained trans...no shavings.....pulled the axles and bearings were dry. passenger side outer bearing was the one making the clunks. Take it for a drive, and see if you can make the noise change by loading it up side to side (swerving back and forth in a parking lot.......don't drink first....you may need to explain what you're doing;) )

Yeah, that's what I meant. If you do straight blocks, i.e. a camber incorrect lift, it works fine no bashing. you wanna drop the strut correctly, and keep proper camber.....you gotta bash. The body flares out there below the factory mount, so if you wanna bring the strut top down you gotta make room. No way around it unless maybe you run the wider STI rear track.

BFH pretty much have to to run a camber correct rear strut top lift over 2"

To power the fan, 12v comes from the relay, grounding comes through the switch and resistor. So, just to rule out the relay, check to see if there is 12v on one of the wires going to the fan when the mode selector is on (heat,defrost.....anything but "off") If you've got 12v there, the relay is good. And you've verified the resistor works in the other car? correct? I would assume at that point it is the fan switch.

Well.....looks like the idle up solenoid for carbed cars w/AC. Thing is, this car is SPFI???

I've got a few....both HItachi's and Denso's. (sounds like you've got the denso) All pulled from running engines. $30 bucks shipped to you if you need one. PM if you need.

Are you getting a code for VSS? If not then it's probably working. might just be the signal not getting to the cruise box.

This could point to a problem in the VSS even though the speedo still works.

Does the speedo work? Does the trip computer give any sort of readings?

Way up in the dash, above the glove box.

There is no in tank screen. There is a few baffles, but that's it. With the condition of the tank you describe, the replacement is a good idea. Otherwise, you could probably just blow the crud back into the tank, then siphon and scrape out the crud to get by. But if you can find a tank do it.

Wait, if there's not 12v coming through, the switch isn't working. don't just go pullin stuff out and guessing, cruise systems are excellent for practicing computer controled system diagnosis. Does the green wire have 12v? that's the horn wire. 12v goes out the the horn, through it, then up to the column. When you hit the horn it grounds that wire....driving volts low and sounding the horn. But when you aren't hitting the horn, this wire has 12v (minus the resitance of the horn). This is the source of the voltage for signal out to the cruise. Diodes in the cruise unit keep the horn from sounding when you hit the buttons. That's right, the horn is inline to the cruise circuit. This setup is to minmize the number of sliprings in the steering wheel. Anyway, so just check for 12v on the horn wire going in, and 12v out on the other 2 wires (yellow and white something??) you can pull the steering wheel pad and check for voltages at the switch. If you have power at the switches but not through to the connectors, then the slipring is bad. Then you do have to pull the whole wheel, (easy with a puller) If you mean at the body to trans wiring connection that would be the neutral switch. If your D/R came from a carbed car it won't have it.

I don't think the trans wires not hooked up would affect the cruise. (maybe in a Auto-manual conversion, but not just S/R to D/R 5spd. Vaccum pump would on;y run when you hit set.

Your testing is flawed. I am assuming you tested the last time with the plugs connected to the bulb? So 12v coming in on the center pin was feeding back out through the other pins. You are reading backfeed voltage passing through the bulb. Start over. Key on, headlight switch on. Disconnect the plugs from the bulbs. #1 Test for 12v on the center pins of connectors (RH=red,LH=Red/blue). Good? ok, move to #2. Not good? Bad relays or bad fusible link (green one) #2 Now clip the ground lead of the testlight to the positive battery terminal, and probe the outer pins of the headlight plugs. (Red/black for LOW beams, Red/white for HI) If the test light doesn't light....it means the bulbs are not getting the grounds from the switch. Switch gets its ground from 3 different ground eyelets (one on each inner frame rail, and one behind the overflow bottle) If this all tests good...then the problem is with the bulbs. If not, then the problem is with the switch or the circuit back to it. My bet is on the green fusible link.:cool:

I would, but I don't have a finished harness lying around. What year and model is the harness from again? Maybe I could make you up a cheat sheet with wire colors. You are well on your way. This is the hard part.....first swap......harness spaghetti everywhere.......intimidating. But you can do it. Do yourself a favor, and thin out the extra relays.....you JUST need the Fuel pump relay and the IG. relay.

Start by checking the buttons. Buttons for the "set" and "resume" are fed power by the horn circuit. Check the horn? does it work? Find the Black, 3 prong connector under the column, with the horn wire, and the 2 wires for the cruise buttons. Check for 12v on the green wire for the horn. then check that 12v is present on the other wires when you press the respective buttons. This 12v makes the signal....If the horn works, but the buttons don't send through power, it could be a bad slipring in the column, not letting power from the buttons through. If that checks out...move on to the pedal switches. Now, what you will notice, is that there are 2 switches on the brake pedal. One for the brake lights, and another that is part of the cruise. The one for the brake lights is pretty easy, as long as the brake lights aren't on normally this is fine. Brake lights on, cancels cruise. The other brake switch, and the one on the clutch are in a loop. Signal comes from the CCU (cruise box) to the brake switch, through it, to the clutch switch, and then back to the CCU. If either switch is open (from misadjustment or faulty) the loop is broken.....cancels cruise. Adjust them so they are closed when the pedals are up. If that all works.......may want to test the Vac pump......report back tonight, and I can dig out the FSM with some actuall wire colors

Doing this way, and getting it done reasonably quick with no mistakes, is an accomplishment, even for a soob expert. You cars are a study in subaru retrofiting. But for a relative newbie might not be so easy. That's why I recommend piggybacking the whole EJ hanrness as a standalone. Leave the EA wiring alone other than the few attachments of EJ leads. Makes troubleshooting easier. And leaves you a path out if completely screw up and you want to go back to stock.

I pull the dash. I route my wiring through the large grommet in the passenger side of the cowl, where the AC wiring goes. (if you are ditching A/C you can cut out the whole A/C pigtail) I carefully slice open the big rubber plug, and route my EJ wiring through it. I mount the ECU behind the glovebox (EA82) or under it above the shelf (EA81) My personal preference.

I am in Corvallis. Maybe it was me you heard of? I'm not in the book, but PM me for contact info.

The passenger side "ear" would just stick out. There would be a bit of a cavity down into the clutch area, but that could be capped off......or left open.....wouldn't matter. Might interfere with a turbo though ****edit. Now I get it. he meant notch the adpatrer to use that trans with an EJ engine..........Yeah.....maybe would have to notch. on a side note.....I wonder if that Rear end set up will make it's way to newer subarus. Might open up some stronger diff and axle options.

A standard replacement plate (tree) costs $27 bucks. A plate transfer (if you have plates on something else not being driven) costs $6. Anything other than the standard plates, you do have to pay a bit extra for each time you register. it's like $20-30 bucks extra for 2 years. This applies to Vanity plates, Crater lake plates, Cultural trust plates, OSU or UO Alumni plates, or the "classic" blue and yellow ones. I personally think the old style ones only look good on truely "old" vehichles 70's and older ya know.

You need to read some more. The only wires that needs to go to the EA ignition is the 12v switch lead. (light green IIRC?) and the starter signal wire from ECU (Red/yellow or Blue) The other fat yellow wire from the IG. relay goes to battery power. Black/red wire from the EJ Fuel pump relay(green 4pin connector, round relay) goes to the Blue/red wire at the EA fuel pump controler (or wherever else you want to hook up the 12v + to the pump.

Sounds like a phase II headgasket. They have 4 thin layers, stamped toghether. Phase I gaskets have 3 layers, with the middle one being thicker, and they are riveted in the corners. Which would make sense, since the phase II 2.5 uses shorter pistons, which don't come out of the block.

Illegal to repaint or alter plates in any way in the state of Oregon. Good news is, unless they are COMPLETELY mangled they can't make you get new ones. Uhh.....you do know plates are only $27 dollars?