Gloyale
Members-
Posts
10955 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
86
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Gloyale
-
long travel Outbacks or making Subarus faster and more reliable offroad
Gloyale replied to pontoontodd's topic in Off Road
I put a brass nut on the reverse shaft that keeps the idler from kicking back too far. About 8~10mm thick IIRC....just found a brass nut that fit over the shaft and stuck it in there. IvansImports I think was the board member here who came up with that trick. It does keep the revers idler WAAAY more in line with the other gears. -
XT6 fulltime box uses same pinion as RX fulltime. why wouldn't that work?
-
1987 GL Wagon Faulty defrost doors/heater speed
Gloyale replied to Insan3xbeast's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Did you check that the vac line from the intake to the vac resevior is connected. if so then check above the clutch pedal where the vac line comes into the cab....there is a connection there that can come loose. -
Need a Center Diff lock box to make it effective wheelin. Or just weld the center diff entirely.
-
Welded Center Diff EJ 5 Speed Instead of D/R 5 Speed
Gloyale replied to sumoco's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
4EAT with the front pinion and diff removed for weight savings. Holes plugged. Weld up the rear transfer no more hydraulic plates Better gearing than a 5spd D/R from 2:1 torque converter compared to 1.59 D/R low -
Kubota
-
Show us your radio console EA81 units
Gloyale replied to jono's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
IMG_4352 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Not pretty but it's got everything in a good place. And it's a Subaru radio! It's got Weather Band and it's paired to a Subaru "subwoofer/amp" combo unit under the pass seat. Tray below is from a Loyale, screwed directly to the heater box behind so no chocolate bars in there okay? -
That's not EGR. Or how the EGR works at all. Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Not fresh air to exhaust. Recirculates some exhaust back into the intake manifold to be burned. EGR goes from port on exhaust of #3 cyl back into the manifold. Lowers cylinder temps but does nothing directly for emissions. Lower temps do reduce Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) What you described (fresh air supplied to exhaust) would be the ASV (air Suction Valve) system. But I I believe what he's talking about here is the warm air hose that was supposed to give warm air to the air filter box until warmed up, then a flap in teh air filter would switch and allow "cold" air from behind/near the fender. about 2" diameter goes from a fitting on the exhaust pipe near pass CV and goes to the underside of the air filter snout.
-
Water pump sticks out too far?
Gloyale replied to TheGageinator's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I can probably dig one up for ya. Just to make sure, take a good look at yer pulley. Remove the clutch fan and see if there are bolts holding the pulley to the pump in between the fan studs, or if the fan studs are shared/common to the pulley. if it's the former, thicker pulley with the bolts between the studs then yes getting a thinner common stud pulley will fix it. Or.......remove pump, set it up in a press with the impeller shaft supported from the back side, and press the pulley hub 5mm further down the shaft. -
Water pump sticks out too far?
Gloyale replied to TheGageinator's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yeah, but in the end the belts all ended up at the same spacing from the crank. i.e. al the other accessories ride in the same relative place. The differnence on the shorter pumps was made up for with a thicker pulley on the factory AC models. (105mm pump) This thicker pulley bolts to pump, then Clutch fan bolts to another set of studs on the pulley. On the non-AC or dealer setup,the longer pump(110mm), the clutch fan bolts on using the same studs as the actual pulley. Slips over them. So....If you put a short pump on an setup made for the long one.....you get a pulley riding too far inboard. unless you find a thicker pulley. In this posters case, I believe you've got the longer pump, but are still using the thicker pulley. If you find a thin, non-ac pulley, you can swap it out and not have to change pumps. Otherwise, get the shorter 105mm pump. -
Ground trigger for a relay setup to run fan Leave park switch unhooked Leave A/C cutoff unhooked Tach wire to EA yellow tach wire, either at coil or in car near dash.
-
I don't think there is any reason having Fogs on without Headlights would be particularly illegal here in Oregon. Though it would be hard to see as the Factory fog lights don't really provide enough light for driving unless it was SUPER foggy. To be legal in Oregon, and most states, as well as being a New car NHSTA regulation that Fog/Driving lights must be: a) Below the centerline of the headlights Must be on a separate switch (not always on with Key on or with Headlight switch.) c) Must NOT be operated while using High Beams. That last one is why almost all new cars are wired so that Fogs go Off when Highs go On.
-
Yah.......GD and I have been butting heads over different ideas of what to do when and for who etc for 10 years. I still have a ton of respect for him, and I am in no way trying to blanket accuse him or his shop of anything improper. We just have different philosophy about some things. "sparring" with him on here keeps me sharp and re-thinking things all the time. I have come to difering conclusions, but I see it as healthy too. I hope no-one is too offended. I NEVER mean anything personal on this forum. Purely Subaru centric though process. What he does for people in his shop is his business as long as he will stand by his work, which he does. I still say if you are doing a brake job, and you are gonna do anything to the rotors (not just pad swap) I prefer to spend less money and keep known OE products.
-
Loyale wagon Rear Axle Kapoof!
Gloyale replied to mickytrus's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Ah that is F*&%ed up! Still doesn't explain why the stub won't protrude far enough to get the cotter pin in. I would spend the $ on a new bearing and have that pressed in......Somewhere else. -
It's ironic that the guy with the "real" shop, who charges way more money, is the one saying to "surface" heads with sandpaper and no way to measure how much taken and from where...... And the "home mechanic" is the one saying that a proper milling on real surfacing equipment to a measured amount and a true plane is the way to go. True irony.
-
That's not what it means. At any rate. If you assume the bearing is pre-greased and that you need the same type for the seal, and you don't have that....Then you gotta pack them with an appropriate grease that you do have some of. But that's not what it means. Look at the picture showing the grease gun pointed at the bearing in diagram....not just the seals. And when would you ever have pressed out an old bearing and be pressing it back in? This is all in reference to pressing a new bearing. Parts A, B, C in the last pic are in regards to pressing a new bearing. Hence the reference to leaving the plastic lock in place in "b" The sentence in C should be "Charge bearing with new grease with the outer race not removed". Meaning pack it as one unit, do not remove the 2 roller halves and pack separately.
-
I want to find this $99 dollar an hour DELIVERY JOB!!! haha I will quit working as a mechanic! Get outta here with that BS. Schedule brake drop offs in the morn, have a courier take them over and back (i can recommend several who don't charge $99 for 2 cross town trips. Hell call a F@#@ing Uber! If you can't figure that one out IDK what to say but it's a poor excuse to make people spend more money than they need to. EVER! I do run a "real" shop It exists in 3-dimensions and persists in space time. I carry garage keepers insurance. What I don't do is have employees, advertising, uniforms, and a waiting area or pay rent on my shop space. My customers are not much different than yours other than they live in a smaller town and are comfortable with a "no-overhead" operation like mine. I hope you weren't implying that they are somehow poor, uncultured yokules who can't afford to take care of their cars so they need a "buddy" to fix er up. That is NOT what I do. I like you value my time. I am professional and I stand by all my work. I charge $75 hour. Every customer gets a recipt and a description of the work done. I've actually been doing this for 10 years as my only income source. I am doing fine. I have ZERO debt. Can you say that? If not than I am wealthier man than you so tell me again how I am naive? My customers are loyal and appreciative and I know all their names. Run your shop how you want. I am just gonna call it like I see it. YOU are the type of shop that drives customers to me. Thank you.
-
Loyale wagon Rear Axle Kapoof!
Gloyale replied to mickytrus's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
is definately does come apart and should be repacked with grease before install. IDK where this myth that wheel bearings come pre greased comes from. If it pressed in, it needs grease. Bolt in bearings like the newer style are "sealed" and do not. I am gonna say that the shop did not press the outer race deep enough into the housing. -
Ea81 5 speed swap stumped
Gloyale replied to Pnwea81berk's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
There were no Pre-ea82 4wd 5-spds. All 5spd 4wd trans had the 1" input. Sounds like you have a FWD 5-spd or 4-spd 4wd. As installed in the car, is the clutch fork on the drivers side or hte passenger side of the bellhousing? And is there for sure a rear output directly out of the tail of the trans? -
I don't exactly remember. I just know I applied sealant along the entire top of the assembly, making sure to get it into the seam without any gaps or bubbles. In my case, I could tell from testing it was leaking between teh inner and outer layers of the fixture, not running in through the back somehow. The foam gaskets only keep water from entering the tailgate. If there is water in the fixture, the problem is with the layers of plastic and you must seal that seem to solve it.