Gloyale

+1 Then, if you do see a voltage drop on the 12v leads to sensors and injectors here's were to look next. anytime I have weird running issues with an XT/XT6 I pull the passenger side seat and carpet, and inspect the wiring that runs along the rocker. Espescially the 4/6 Injector wires. there are a few crimp junctions, wrapped in tape, that like to get corroded and seperate.

No issues with starter or trans positioning. The EJ bellhousing is 1/2" shorter than the EA82, so when you add the adapter thickness, you end up back at the OE EA82 dimensions.

That plug is where the front trans crossmember would bolt on for a Manual trans.

Shorten the front section. Mount the carrier bearing to the tunnel. 90-98 Legacy shaft should bolt right to the Brat diff. After 98+ I've seen some larger flanges, but they interchange. Remove the matching flange and slide it onto the diff your using. ***** another thought...Early Nissan 2wd Pickups use the same slide into the trans, and same flange for the diff. They are pretty long, one piece. might work, just looked at one on the shop floor and thought it was pretty long and might work.

Holy six year old thread Batman!!!

Power light is triggered by the TPS. (unless it's flashing, that's a trouble code) Test the TPS.

IDK..... But this block seems sketchy. There is nothing to keep it from rocking fore and aft. Espescially bad considering that all the force of front axles moving the vehicle goes through that block. If it rocks, it will change your toe during accel/deceleration. I've had bad experiences with "c" beam blocks in lifts because they like to twist. ****EDIT**** After reading Scott's response below, I am more confident in the blocks. The second block will brace the first.

Sure you can, if you are putting it with a 4spd it's no different. It can be used with the 5spd too (at least the larger 225mm ones) but it's thicker so some have had to space out the starter. No totally sure.

Doesn't look too bad to me. It's a rust belt car. One that's likely to be driven alot in snow (more so than other cars) It's not so bad that you can't enjoy having the car for the next 10 years. As far as long term collecting............not gonna happen. Not without lot's of restoration. If you want to enjoy owning and driving a Baja for a while, get it. I'm sire it's structurally sound. But.....if your buying it to add to a collection and try to keep it as a show car.......don't buy this one. Take a trip out here to Cal/OR/Wash and buy one with zero rust (they exist here)

The 4 wire sensors have a seperate ground wire, instead of grounding the signal wire through the exhaust. Most of them the 2 matched color wires are the heater circuit. The other 2 will be the signal circuit. Measure voltage between the 2 terminals, and you should get between .05 and .85 volts. Fluctuating with throttle and RPMs. You can test the rear one this way. Disconnect it, and test the signal wires for voltage. But......The front O2 on that year is a 5 wire, "air/fuel ratio sensor" some sort of wideband that I don't know excaclty how to test. That's why I have my MAC MENTOR II scanner to test cycle them for me:headbang:

That info came from a 99' shop manual. Meaning it's referencing the Phase II, EJ22. The Phase II 2.2 is an oddball. Basically a smaller bore Phase II 2.5. So for 99 only EJ22 the bore/stroke may be correct. (96.9/79mm)

So, wait......you are going from an EA81 4spd 4wd, to a EJ 5MT AWD? Are you sure you need to lengthen it? You have to SHORTEN drivelines to go from EA82 5spd 4wd to EJ 5spdAWD. Is the 4spd that much longer? When I went from EA82 5spd to EJ AWD in my wagon, I had to shorten. I cut it, ground down the shoulder on the yolk till it sleeved nicely back into the shortened tube. Then I mounted the trans end into an old junk tailsection and held the other end, rotating it till it didnt' wobble. Then my buddy hit it with the MIG welder as I slowly spun it round. No balancing. 100mph. no shaking.

You can get lugnuts that have a "shoulder" on them on the beveled end. Use these nuts on the toyota holes. You only need 8 of these. Use your original Lugnuts flipped over on the 2 redrilled holes. So the flat side will be against the rim. If you try to bevel these holes, you will end up pulling the wheel off center, or clamping with just one edge of the nut (because it's unlikely that your new holes will be exactly perfect) Tighten the shouldered nuts in the toyota holes first. Then tighten the other 2 as clamping force. So the factory beveled holes will center it, and the other holes will be clamped tight by the flat side of the flipped over nuts.

If it's really nice, low miles, 4wd and everything works and looks good, I'd say $1800-2000 is fair to ask. But the rougher it is, the lower the price. I've gotten 'em for as low as $100-300;)..........by dragging them out of the weeds:rolleyes:

You'll likely still need a bit of trim or "massage" of the wheel well corners in front, and the front edge of the rear wheel well.

No, it doesn't. Only powers Ignition circuits. Starter trouble is likely something else. Test the Ig. Switch with a test light to see if it's sending power though in start. There is however an interlock relay, activated by the clutch switch. I believe mounted to the right of the column, under the dash. Blue connector with a Yellow, square relay. At the relay Green/Yellow = ground coming through with clutch switch depressed. Check it for ground with clutch depressed. Red/Yellow = power out to starter. The other 2 wires ussually are Blue/Red are the power coming from the starter switch. Check these for power when the ignition switch is pressed. If you don't get 12v here when the key is turned to start, the Ig. switch is bad. If all that checks out, it could be the relay is bad.

Should be able to use your springs. Put a 1" spacer on the rear strut tops if the lift in the rear is insufficient.

No. That's an intank pump. It doesn't have the right type of connection at the inlet, and it probably has a overflow drain, so it will be spurting fuel out the bottom while running (fine for in-tank, not good for external;) )

Last time I checked, water freezes at 32 degrees.........no matter where you live:rolleyes: And honestly......5-6 seconds? did you time it? could it have maybe been only 2 or 3? Even if it was 10 seconds...that's not that abnormal on a cold day. Also, a brand new engine isn't broken in yet, so it may take the rings warming from a few cranks to get good compression. I wouldn't worry at all. The car started, on the first try......even if it took a few seconds.

Actually you can. If you are trying to overtightem it to take slack from a damaged bearing, all you will end up doing is smashing the hub face against the bearing race til it deforms and creates a ridge. Once this is done....the hub is trashed. If you install it with new bearings, take those bearings out in short order. 150 ftlbs. is plenty. If the bearings won't get tight.....something else is wrong.

Did you check the splines on the inside of the hub? Did you check the mating face of the hub where it rides against the inner race? Did you get the lockring on the back secured all the way? If not the outer race can walk in the knuckle. It's also possible that the bearing was pressed improperly. If all the other stuff checks out.....take it back to them....ask if they pressed the outer race seperately.....or if they just slammed the whole thing in. If they pressed the whole bearing as one piece they could have damaged it. There is a spacer between the bearing races, so if they get damaged....no amount of tightening will fix.

My 86 wagon: EJ22, 5MT 4.11 AWD, 2" lift with 195/65/15 tires = about 21-25 MPG (I drive hard) My 84 Wagon: EJ18, 5MT 3.9 D/R, 6" lift with 235/75/15 tires = about 22-26 MPG So....in my case both engines get about the same mileage. But the EJ18 engine is pushing WAAAY bigger tires and more wind resistance at highway speeds. I can only assume if the EJ18 was compared in the same car as the EJ22, the difference would be about 5mpg. speculation only :wink:

oops

If it's a trashed rod bearing, you could get a new rod, grind the crank, and rebuild. If it spun the bearing in the case........sadly, the case is likely junk. Grind down the crank all you want, but the hole in the case is now too big to hold a new bearing. I've seen undersize I.D. bearings, but no oversize O.D. so line boring the case is no go unless you can get some custom bearings. That's another reason most people are goin EJ. If you're set on keepin an EA81......find a decent runner, tear it down and rebuild it BEFORE it spins a bearing. OOOOHHH!! I did just remember...I know a guy local here in Corvallis who has a stock of about 150 EA81 blocks (he used to build HiPo Aircraft engine from them) Last I talked to him he said $100 bucks for a good bare block. PM me if you want his #.

+1 for the Fusible links You'll probably need to make new using fusible link wire and solder.