Gloyale

It's not just a length issue. The EA81 arms pivot off the inner edge of the rear part of the crossmember. The arms angle backwards from those pivots. EA82 and XT6, the pivot is mounted to the outer side of the rear of crossmember, about 2 inches further back on the car. The arms are 90 degrees to the centerline of the car, no angle like the EA81s have. so if you just mount an EA82 or XT6 arm on an EA81 chassis, the ends of the arms would be too far forward relative to the radius rods, and simply prying them back would put an extreme twisting action on the pivot. You could add a whole EA82 crossmember......I did this on my EA81, got the idea from S'Ko here on the board......he did it with his brat. Opens up power steering options, widens the track, corrects the terrible EA81 camber, and opens up axle and brake options.

STI r180 will bolt directly into the rear of an older subaru. Input flange may need changed out, and figuring out the correct axles to use would be the hard part. But since r180s have been installed into older subes before, it's definately doable.

Uhh..... you've turned the triangulation into a parrallelogram. You may experience some rocking forward and aft from the diff. Might not matter, but worst case could pull you're driveline out of the back of the trans. You may want to rethink that mount. I'd put a spacer between the diff and the hanger instead. and only an inch. no need to drop th e front of the diff down as much as the rear. that keeps it more of a triangle.

The MT crossmember bolts into the chassis at the rear/ inner bolt for the radius rod plate. Ditch the AT crossmember. FWIW, there are some rubber washers with a spacer that are supposed to go with the crossmember.....they may or may not be in the MT crossmember ends. Big washers will work, but the vibration will be more.

Your cable mounting bracket at the carb end is bent. Bend it back, strengthen it, or replace it.

Check the secondary diaphram with a vacuum pump, see if it's opening. Of course check all the hoses to it as well, verify it is getting vaccum under WOT.

Locks are sticky from sitting so long. Spray some wd-40 into them with straw. Then, check to see if the rotor spins when cranked. if not, broken timing belt. mosty likely culprit if it was running then just died. No fuel presure after opening the system and then cranking cause the ECU won't power the pump unless it sees spark (spinning disty.....broken belt means no spinning disty)

Hey guys, just got an email from ARB. They are now making an air locker to fit the Nissan R180 diffs. Now, these are for front diffs in newer Pathfinders, Xterras, and Frontiers, but that's a start. Bad news, price.......almost $1100 bucks.

It's a Spider intake thing. TB blocks clear view of the Flywheel/flexplate. 87+ XT MPFI cars used the timing marks on the front pulley.

The seals may be leaking, but I'll bet dollars to donuts the bearings aren't loose. If those bearings were loose, your ring and pinion would be soooooo loud, and destroyed quickly. You are feeling the Axle cups wiggling on the stub, and stub shafts wobble inside the diff carrier. It's normal. But the diff carrier must still be solidly held in the bearings or else the car would not drive.....quickly. Replace the seals on the side outputs. Easy to do with trans in car, or removed.....not nessecary to split the case. As for the shift linkage, replace the bushing....or in that year you may have to replace the whole joint.....either way, again it's not part of the trans, just the shifter.

I had a few of the sealed for life bearings come back, and a few in my own car get washed dry after water crossings. The grease in them is light weight, and I think more for light duty than heavy grease for a wheel bearing. So, all the ones I've done recently I have added new grease. Even to the Sealed 6207 bearings in the front of the EA cars. What I do, is to carefully pry out the seals.(they're rubber,and come out easy) Then I pack the bearings with red Lucas grease using a bearing packing cone. Next, I reinstall the seal to one side of each bearing. Then , when I press them into the knuckles, I put the open side of the bearings to the inside, facing eachother(with the spacer between of course). packing the space between about 30-40 % full of grease as well. a bit more on the lips of the knuckle seals(inner and outer). This way, you get the "extra" seal on teh outer edge of each bearing, but the benefit of the open cavity with extra grease to flow in.

Did you cut the yellow wire that goes to the Coil from the Ig. relay? The way those early harnesses are laid out, that yellow wire is easy to cut accidentally.

Cruise Equiped cars have 2 switches on the brake pedal, and at least one on the clutch (the starter lockout on the clutch pedal is not connected tot eh cruise system. Here's the breakdown. Brake switch 1.... Normally open, closes when pedal depressed, to send 12v to the brake lights. on cruise models, 12v to the brake light also cancels the cruise. Brake switch 2.....Normally closed. Signal wire from Cruise unit goes out to this switch, through it....then out through the clutch switch, and returns to the Cruise unit. If the pedal is depressed, the circuit goes open....cancelling cruise. Clutch switch 1.... Again, normally closed. In the same loop as the signal wire from the cruise unit. Pedal depressed opens the circuit, cancelling cruise. Sounds like you've got a good hold on the whole deal.....but you need to get a cruise (normally closed) switch and add it to the loop of the second brake switch to cancel cruise with clutch.

I've got a few stub 25 spline shafts if you want em say 10 bucks or so? Flywheels I have also. $30 for a stock EA82 one , $100 for a EJ drilled one.

Trans with 2 swtiches = 4wd(at the back) and Reverse (on the side, inline with shift rod) trans with 4 switches = Same as above, Plus Neutral (inline with shift rod, forward of the Reverse switch) And Lo range(passenger side, high up on the transfer section). This means this is an 89 D/R....all the others the Hi/Lo switch is in the cab at the shifter) You'll want to use the one WITH 4 switches. For the flange at the rear, I leave a bit of the old gasket, ussually around the bolt holes where it doesn't want to scrape off anyhow. This serves as a spacer(gasket does affect clearances) then just use sealant. I Personally use right stuff. It cures up fast, rubbery, but still flexible. I don't like Anaerobic as it stays gooey forever and is a mess to clean up if you have to split it again later. You will want to have your extra D/R ready when the EJ25 and extra 1000 pounds of car eventually break it.

The legacy one could correct #'s.......Hard to know excactly since they used a different temp for the lower spec. The GL #'s are definately not right. Parts info, and Service info for 80's subarus is notoriously inaccurate, mislisted, or just flat out wrong (torque to yeild head bolts in an EA82???) Only Factory manuals can be fully trusted...and I've found a few misprints in them too:rolleyes:

hmm..... I'm using a 93 Legacy computer with an EJ18 in my 84 wheeler. I don't think I've ever hit fuel cut???? I suppose I ussually do shift by 6500.......since the redline on the EA81 tach is 5500......Makes it feel like it's really revved out.......in my head at least. I do hit the rev limiter (6k) in my 86 wagon. Tach shows 6500 redline......but fuel cuts before that:banghead: Guess it just takes getting used to.

Broken cv axle. replace it and your good to go.

Your #'s are off. perhaps you are getting stats for the FI temp sensor, not the gauge sender. This is what the Subaru Factory manual says 88 GL: 72 Ohms= 158 F, 16.1 Ohms = 248 F 90 leagcy: 134 Ohms = 135 F, 19 Ohms = 248 F These are directly from the Fuji service manuals. Section 6-2 body electrical.

Why would you want to? They suck, and most of them are broken by now. They only were around from 88-94 I've seen more interest from people who want to take them out, and put conventional belts in.

Depends on year and model. Some it's just ducting, newer models (99+) the air filter itself is located in that duct. Some models (99 leg, 99 Forrester) actually use 2 air filters.....one on the side with MAF attached, then leading into the box behind the throttle body with another airfilter box. These ones are annoying because if the filter in the second box doesn't seat well, you get an unmetered air leak. Either way, if there is a big boxy unit attached to the back of the throttle body, remove it. 2 bolts and a clamp. Makes access to the starter way easier.

First....are you judging Volts simply by the dash meter. they go out all the time. Next time, check the voltages with a meter. There is NO WAY that timing will affect the charging. 2 Questions. Does the "charge" light come on when you turn the key on/eng. off? What is the condition of the connector at the ALT? is the heavy white wire hard and brittle? "T" plug corroded or frayed? Also, check the rear most fusible link in the link box.

Removing the airclear box helps alot. No need at all to get under the car to change a starter.

TC, when fully seated, should only protrude about 3mm out past the lip of the bellhousing. Same as Phase I. BUT.......if you don't have the TC for the new trans, you need to make sure you get the extension tube out of your old one to install with the TC in the new one. Disconnect those metal hoses at the rubber line....then swap them over AFTER the trans is out. Make sure to remove the dipstick tube too before removing trans......otherwise it will get bent.

Wrong marks. Valve timing marks are the hashes, not the arrows.