Gloyale

Replace Cam Seals, Valvecover gaskets, Coolant pipe crossover o-rings (1-9/16"x 1/8"), front main, oil pump o-ring and sealant. definately reseal the seperator plate on the back of the engine. REAR MAIN........Don't do it unless it is showing real signs of leakage (wet oil, not just a dusty film) I've seen more issues with rear mains leaking after being replaced than Factory ones. They really are better to be installed when the case halves go toghether, rather than punched in later. Use full XT6 clutch kit, flywheel cut to the XT6 specs (?.815 Step IIRC)

Possible you've got the front lift blocks installed on the wrong side? Check the engine mounts for sure, and on a related note, do you have a proper length "dogbone" (pitch stopper). One or both of these issues could be causing the drivetrain to lift up, increasing CV angles.

Looks a ford truck with Subaru badges.

+ 1

Fronts 96-2004 outback front struts/springs (not H6 unless you are adding weight like winch and armour) Rears 96-99 Outback strut/with Forrester springs and IIRC an Imp tophat. (may need washer added, can't use FOR or OB tops, different bolt hole spacing.) or... 04+ Forrester Struts and Springs, imp tophat.

It's the 04+ forrester struts that are taller. Up til then, they are barely longer than IMP struts, and SHORTER than 96-99 Leg. Outback struts. Get a new set of rears for a 99 Outback.

My rig is an EA81 wagon (84) , with a EJ18 and a 5spd D/R. I've had no problems yet. I use high range in town and on freeway. drives great. I think a hatch, with an EJ22, and a nissan t-case, you will be lovin it. If you are concerned, just weld up the transfer on the D/R (locked in 4W), but leave the Hi/Lo linkage. As a comparisson, lots of Legacies in NZ and AU had single range push button 4wd trans...... same transfer gears, in a heavier car, with EJ power..........Just sayin..........

Looks to be OBD II, and I think I see the OBD II port. Make sure the red/black wire(s?) to it has 12v Batt+. Although, if the IG. relay is gone, may need to check that all item supposed to be powered actually get power when you wire it up. the big yellow wire (Batt+)in particular feeds power to lots of stuff before it goes to the relay, so things like the Transistor, IAC, Vent solenoid, etc... may not be in the loop still.

You'll need a intake for a EJ18 or EJ22 to work with the 2.2 heads. Stay away from phase II 2.2's, they have larger heads and are wider, basically the same as a phase II 2.5 (SOHC)

Unless you added a spacer to the crossmember, there should be no change needed to the coupler. The difference I was talking about with the newer racks is the teeth are finer on the splined shafts. Length is a seperate issue, but easily addressed with a welder:Flame:

The guy was "developing" them in 2007, he may have given up since the post was never updated.

Watch out, somewhere around 99-2000 ish they changed the spline type to a finer tooth on the ends of the column and pinion inputs. I'm guessing that you'll need to find a 98 or older rack. Of course, you could make a custom coupler by welding the upper joint from a pre-98 to match the column, and the lower joint to match the input on the rack you choose. Then you could use all the way up to a '07 Impreza rack. (Forrester or Outback too) We make couplers all the time for lifted rigs, just as easy to do a custom one for a street rig.

My 4spd lasted about 6 months behind the EJ in my 84 GL. About the same for my friends '81. But it worked to get up and running and with the EJ swap, you don't need to do the 5-spd swap at the same time with the EJ.

this isn't correct. Only difference is in the brackets.

Do you have the batteries isolated? Are you're lights and accessories all on the extra battery? I recently got an isolator out of an R.V. I want it set up so that i can run lights and battery with engine off, and not pull from the primary (starting)battery.

Please tell me more......PM me if you don't want to hi-jack

Support rear on jacks, remove wheels. Remove the lockbolt from the tosion tube, it's underneath, right at the end of the tube. Remove the 3 bolts holding the torsion arm to the trailing arm. Slide torsion bar out, rotate it one tooth, reinstall. repeat for other side. If it drops it too much, you can then use the adjuster bring it back up.

That's cool.....still better than steelies. Gonna swap it? You definately should. The nice thing about the MPFI cars is the larger Fuel Pump than even the SPFI ones. And again, like I said, you can make all your wiring condensed at the ECU connector(tach,vss,cel,ig,start signal, neutral switch)

"Duralast" parts are just defined by the box. It's just big batches of stock from OE manufactures that AZ buys up at discount, unpackaged or partially packaged and boxes up and warehouses its. Example.... if you go to AutoZone and look up an EA82 rear wheel bearing there are 2 choices. Timken, good but not OEM.....Lifetime warranty......56.99 Or Duralast, when you get the bearing, it's Koyo....like subaru the factory part......One year warranty, but it's only 39.99 Same with Duralast Knock sensors, and alot of other parts. Pull them out of the AZ packaging, and it's a factory, Japanese made part. I've been pretty happy with them recently. That said, Clutches i've gotten as "Duralast"...have been sometime Exedy, and sometimes Valeo...so it's a crap shoot.

I believe that the N/A EJ stall speed is 2800 also. My thinking is just match the T/C to the engine you are using it with.

If it's gonna be a street/snow car.....you would be fine with a 4.11 AWD trans from a Outback. If you split the case of the trans, you can put 23 spline stubs into the AWD trans so you can use your stock EA81 axles.

I still don't think you "NEED" a turbo torque converter. Your EA82T version of the 4eat doesn't require that high stall converter. I mean, if you run a N/A EJ22, why would you need a TC from a turbo? And if you use an adapter plate, youd be using you're stock trans and TC, so why would you need a high stall for a bell swapping?

There are pins at both ends of the axle. Knock out the roll pins, unbolt the lower shock bolt and let the arm swing down. the axle should slip off the stubs at both ends. The spindle stays in the hub/arm.

It wouldn't have to be from a Turbo Leg. Any 90-98 4EAT bell will work. TC just needs to match the flexplate. You can swap the bells while the trans is in the car, when the engine is out. Order a "seal tube" from the dealer, and some side output seals and o-rings. Setting up the diff isn't that hard. I would be worried about depth issues with using an adapter......possible the pump engagement might get messed with.....jsut my fear....no reason to think that really......just a few mm doesn't matter much on a manual....but for an auto?

I've actually been plannin this mod for a while. I want to use it in my EA81 (regular 5spd D/R right now) My reason: The EA81 4wd lever is mounted solid to the body. When I am in 4 hi, and go on/off throttle, the movement of the trans pushes/pulls on the on the 4wd actuator rod. This pops it in and out of 4wd. It's not adjustments either....it's the short throw between 4wd/2wd, and the weird way the 4wd shift fork is interlocked with sliding pins to the Hi/lo actuator. Since the step up from hi/lo is a longer throw, I don't have any problems in 4 LO. Basically, I can't use 4 hi. Right now it's either 2wd or 4 Lo. I'd like to have the 4wd controlled by the vac actuated button. And leave the hi/lo on the lever. Trequires some mods to the transfer section(rear) of the trans. This way, the 4wd isn't affected by movement of the trans, since hte vacuum unit is bolted to the trans. On;y the Hi/Lo would be affected by movement, and like I said....in 4 lo it's not a problem. Now on an EA82, this isn't a problem since the 4wd lever is mounted to the rest of the shifter stay, so when the trans moves a bit, so can the shifter. So, to do it on an EA82 would be like, "what's the point?" Except it does give you a 2wd Lo. But I digress. My plan: 1)Standard EA82 D/R trans front section. Must be one that has mounting bosses for the vacuum cable, most do. 2) Standard EA82 S/R rear transfer case section. 2 holes drilled, for the hi/lo shift rod. bosses are there, just need drilled out and the seals from a D/R installed. Hi/Lo actuator rod from a FT4wd D/R or modified standard D/R rod...Either way, just need a solid rod to run through the back section of the trans. Doin it this way, will utilize the factory detents for Hi/lo. The rod will need to be notched on it's top side, so the S/R 4wd shift fork will clear over the top. not much mods to make it work.....in theory.......however I've had lots of these trans apart and can visualize every part inside. If you have less experience, you may not want to try this.....but if you do wnat to try it please don't let me stop you. When I have a bit of time to actually do this I will definately do a writeup with pics.