Gloyale

If the overall diameter is the same or smaller, the EA81 will turn it just fine. The extra weight of the 15" rim is counteracted by less sidewall rubber weight on the tire. You can't use just any wheels though. 1) they must have a flat center, suitable for drilling a hole through. Lots of stamped steelies have ridges or bumps between the factory holes, so you can't redrill them. 2) If this isn't going on a wheeler, you probably don't want your tires to stick out. So, you will need to find rims with a very shallow offset. Toyota pickup rims from 89-93ish? work perfect. Almost all the other 6 lug rims I've seen are deeper offset and will stick anywhere from 1-3 inches out from the fenders. these are the Yota rims you want...

Nice trails man. If I make it to So Cal anytime soon we will have to go beck out there. Not too serious it looks like, but fun. Yeah man, an Auto would have helped. D/R would have been even better.

I assume these are At the Wheel HP numbers, but still.......why so low? An stock EA82 makes 90 hp?

You got a kit for an 84+ EA81 w/ 4spd. 225 MM disc, same as EA82, but with smaller inner shaft diameter and the 4 spd style bearing.

Swapping bells is pretty easy. I'd go that route before using an adapter plate. It's not an option for manuals, but for the autos there is a factory part that bolts on so why not?

Do you have a Single range trans or a Dual? If it's a single range, you can stuff all the guts into a EJ AWD trans case. Then use an EJ flywheel and clutch, w/ no adapter plate. Good way to go for a DD.

Just solder on a new set of connectors And you shouldn't have needed to remove the TQ at all. And if you didn't install the TQ correctly, the pump may be damaged, making no pressure, and throwing a line pressure solenoid code. Hopefully not but you should maybe test the line pressure.

Perhaps the first fill-up before you left, they topped the tank off to the brim. So while driving, the gauge stays pegged for a while, till the level drops to the normal range. Then to add to it, the fill up at the end could have been not topped off. Try again, using the same pump and method to fill. And better to do a longer trip using half the tank or more to get a more accurate calculation.

First gen Legacy Rear DOJs are even deeper, and fit in the same manner.

Looks like it should work. The thing I am pointing out is that you shouldn't have needed to mess with any of that. The relays are connected the way they need to be in stock form. You chopped them unessecarily. You need the large yellow wire to get power from Batt. 12v and the small yellow, turning to Light green wire goes to Ig. 12v. It's common for those wires to get cut though. The small one goes all around and back to the EJ alt. connector, and the Large one runs up to the fuse box and back and all around no where near the ECU. Making the harness managable is hard to do without cutting that wire and then spicing it. But surely you've learned quite a bit, you could do another one alot better now.

What model/engine? If its an EJ18, your fine. If it's an EJ22, you might be ok. Hang a belt on it and test compression. but bent valves are a possibility.....worth finding out though before tearing it down. If it's an DOHC EJ25, just pull the engine and pull the heads now, definately bent valves. IF by chance it's a SOHC 2.5, you may be in luck also, hang a belt and test compression.

Yellow is the 12v from Ignition relay. Other 2 are from the Igniter to trigger each coils firing. This is Body side. *Colors on the actual coil pigtail may be different.

IF the ECU thinks the engine temp is low, it will stay in open. If it can't control idle,(unmetered air leak) it will go open (and on some ECUs cut #1 cyl fuel) Also, there are driving conditons the ECU will go OPDC. OPen for Driving Conditions. Either to accomodate fuel cut for coasting, or full enrichment under WOT. If the VSS is reading a pulse, and the Throttle/idle switch is closed, it will assume the car is coasting, and go open to cut fuel OPDC. Similarly, it will go OPDC for a full throttle. So check out the range on the TPS, and make sure the Idle switch is working correct. These are just gusses where to start looking. Just some of the conditions the ECU will go open loop for.

I am thinking the power from the yellow wire on the Alt to the ECU is not correctly wired.

Looks correct. You shouldn't have needed to cut or modify any of the wiring betweeen the 2 relays. That's the problem with the "if it doesn't go to the ECU, cut it out approach" Because a couple of the main 12v wires out to the engine connectors don't go through the ECU. I think a better overall rule of thumb for trimmin down the harness is that if it's connected to an engine connector, or to the ECU leave it. Definately don't cut any wiring between the IG. and Fuel relays. Study the charts one at a time, and correct the mistake.

Where in Oregon are you? If you want to bring the harness by i can look at it. like many others have done (myself included) you cut the wire that goes from the fuse box out to some of the engine connectors (coil, transistor, solenoids) , you prolly also cut out the diode? As for fuel pump. You'll use the EJ relay, only wire from it you should need to mess with is the Black/red wire. It will connect to the EA fuel pump wire. I can tell you where and what color wire if you tell me what the EA chassis model is (year, EA81 or 82?Carbed or FI?)

At best you might have half of the hole correctly tapered. Even still, now there is a point, about halfway down the stud that the bottom(threaded end) can fulcrum on. There is a reason for the taper full length. It's so the stud CAN"T wobble in the hole, the forces are not acting on the threads and nut, but rather on the ballpivot. Screw with that, and your tierod stud is now able to wobble. Still totally scary to me. I'm a dad. There's no way I would ever consider modifying my rig like that. It's a bad idea all the way round.

EDIT* Read more repsonses.......apology accepted. Also I had assumed manual.....Auto has no VLSD......worth noting that a welded rear diff COULD have contributed to the clutch pack issue. ??? WHAT ABOUT 90 LEG SPORT (TURBO) I THOUGHT THEY HAD 3.9 VLSD ALLTHE WAY6 AROUIND That would be a VLSD rear diff. Autos have no "diff" in the center. No Subarus have LSD front diff* *except some STI???

There is a reason that Tierods are fitted with a tappered shank. It's so that the load of side to side motion of that post is spead out and there is not a fulcrum created. Also, the threads of the nut are just used for clamp force. there is no real change in load at the nut during usage. By hoggin out the top of the hole, and mounting the TRE upside down, you eliminate the load spreading affect. Now all the force is placed at a few contact points, and you are relying ENTIRELY on the threads of the nut to hold that post from wobbling back and forth. THAT is WAAAY more scary than the changed geometry. And reason enough for me to call it completely dangerous and bad advice. I would not touch a customer car that came to me like that unless I was replacing the knuckle and TRE with unmolested ones. Uberoo, I pray for your safety.

Even with a lift, you will still need a little nit of trim or bash to fit 205/70/15s. I have a 2" lift, and 195/65/15 tires and they BARELY clear without a bit of trimming or bashing. I personally feel that a 1" drop is needed on the Engine crossmember and trans crossmember. Also, to aviod vibration, a 1/2" spacer at the carrier bearing helps alot. I've driven cars with just the lift, and ones with the crossmember blocks too, and the difference is big. Without the crossmember drop the front end lift under throttle is crazy, and the axles are at a prett steep angle. There is alot of vibration. With the spacers added, the vibration goes away, and the front end lifting is less pronounced.

All EJ autos are 4EAT's, which means 25 spline. It's the early FWD 5spds in Legacies and Imprezas up to 95 that are 23 spline.

Scott, There's no need to rewire the car to run EJ ECU. Wiring in the car stays intact. You strip down the EJ harness then add it piggyback to the cars wiring. Properly set up, there are 3 wires needed for basic "running" engine(Battery 12V, Ig. 12V, and Fuel pump power. About 4-6 more wires needed for full operation. (VSS, Tach, Nuetral, Start signal, CEL, ?) IDK.....everybody has there own idea of what's easy and hard work. To me, a few wire splices is WAAAAAY easier than new throttle body and distributor mount fabrication. And in the end, the MPFI system is a superior result to the EA SPFI. Seems like the hard way to a "downgrade" to me.

#1) You never mentioned that the rear diff is welded. (meaning your center VLSD diff is likely now toasted, but I digress......) This piece of info completely changes the situation in terms of providing you with your answers. #2) The very first response in this thread I told you EXCACTLY what you are now talking about doing. Install each end of a CV axle at the diff and wheel, with the shaft removed. #3) Why not just buy a new diff?.....they are like $25-50 bucks from u-pull. EDIT* Read more repsonses.......apology accepted. Also I had assumed manual.....Auto has no VLSD......worth noting that a welded rear diff COULD have contributed to the clutch pack issue.

25D pistons come "proud" out of the block. Use the 25D gasket or you will have high compression and possible contact with head.

Front main should be replaced while the belts are off. Rear main is the one to leave alone( espescially since it's only accessable with the engine out) Subaru dealer is gonna be the only place to get the oil pump seals. Sometimes you can find the Mickey Mouse gasket and o-ring aftermarket, but NOBODY has the pump seal except the dealer. IMO, replacing the Mickey and the O-ring is pointless if you don't seal the shaft of the pump. But you have to be careful removing the pulley and shaft. First remove the pump from the engine. Then clamp the rotor into a vice, using one of the old timing belts as a cushion. For the A/C pump..It doesn't NEED to come out to do this job, but if you want, unbolt the entire bracket from the engine, then simply flop the deal up and back away from the engine.