Gloyale

13's??? perhaps.

More than that. The VSS, Tach, Neutral switch, CEL, and Switched IG+ and Batt+ are all there in the MPFI ECU plug. I think it makes for a very clean install to be able to splice in basically ALL of your wiring in one spot. *note* most of the grounds (-) in the MPFI plug will not have continuity to ground since the Engine section of the harness is where they where grounded to originally.

Did you remove the diode that prevents the Alt/Igniter/Coil circuit power from backfeeding? that would do it.

This is not really true. Or possible. EJ 18 bore = 87mm EJ22 bore = 96.9mm Nearly 10mm larger Subaru specs for bore enlargment.= 0.5mm These are not cast V8s. there is not any material to "bore out to ejxx" You can fit a .25 or .50 over piston for a rebuild but that's it. The cylinder in an EJ engine is like a big open topped barrel inside the block. While the outside walls, and bearing castings of all the EJ engines are the same, the "barrels" that make the cylinders are physically different for each respective piston size. Both in inside(bore diameter) and outer diameter. You cannot bore an EJ18 to be an EJ22. The outer diameter of the barrel of an EJ18 is nearly the diameter of the EJ22 piston you want to put in it. The iron sleeve of the EJ18 is much smaller than the EJ22 piston. IF you were to attempt to bore out an EJ18 to 22 you would end up with aluminum cylinder walls about 1-2 mm thick. Not to mention you'd need to bore even bigger to fit a sleeve. It just isn't possible.

Radius rods bolt right into the EA81 mounting plates. As for the crossmember, it is about 1 3/4 wider. This is the part that requires either making an adapter block (ussually with a lift) or modifying the EA82 crossmember. When I did it, I cut sections of the crossmember into "tabs" that I folded up to flat, and drilled new holes about 7/8th's of an inch in from the EA82 holes. PM me if you are seriously doing this I can send pics. As for benefits: Better brakes Easier to find rotors, hubs, calipers. Improved Steering rack, readily available power rack, easily compatible with EA or EJ pumps and lines. Wider track, improved camber, brings it negative Drawbacks: Gotta be careful to get it centered and perpendicular to thrust angle. Wider track can be an issue for fender clearance depending on tire size and wheel offset, and room from top of tire to top edge of fender under compression. Too wide a rim, and the wheels will stick out and/or hit the fender lip.

You will want to use the fan control wire to trigger a relay (ground side) of a relay. More reliable than the switch in radiator. Atmosensor is built into ECU....shouldn't have any wires. Cut the Auto/Manual wire to signal manual. Hook the neutral switch wire to the neutral switch on the trans. (grounds when in neutral) ignore park wire(cut)

A/C wires, and state ID can be cut out. Neutral/park/and auto/manual swithes depends on the swap. What year trans are you using? does it have a neutral switch in it? The thick yellows are constant, the thin yellow is Ig. Switched.......supplys the relay, the Igniter, and coil....then on the diode, comes out Light green for ECU and fuel pump "on" Black is ground.

They will work. Provided that you DO have the tophats and coils for non airbag installed. (if the bags are in, just flat, you'll need to source 90-94 tophats and springs for the rear, and any year front tophats, and springs for front) Swap your springs and tophats over to the KYBs and throw them on.

You need to find the yellow wire from Coil and Igniter, and reconnect it to the Ignition switched wire for the Ig. Relay. (that wire should also have been a yellow feeding a few sensors and solenoids power, and then, going into a diode, then out as Light Green to the ECU "on") The way the harness is setup, many folks cut this wire as it's junction is way up near the underhood fusebox. It's alright, it kinda needs to be cut and spliced longer to make the harness work elegantly anyhow.

Ground the "park" pin. Alternately, you can cut the Auto/Manual wire to tell the ECU to be for a manual, but then it will be looking for a Nuetral switch signal which you're 84 trans won't have. So you'll still have idle issues and possibly stall at lights. Leaving the ECU auto, and grounding the park pin seems to work well.

You got it backwards. 90-91 has 2 large and 1 smaller connector at the engine. 92-94 has just 2 large connectors. 95-99 has 3 large connectors that mount near the rear of the engine, passenger side. sounds like you've got a 92-94 harness.

Anybody done this? I;ve seen lots of Phase I 2.2s in Vanagons, but what about the phase II. Doing a conversion on an 85 vanagon, and there is a sweet running 99 2.2 in a Legacy Brighton at the wrecker. Anyone know if the slightly wider heads and taller intake cause any issues?

My phase I EJ22 fits in the EA81 body with about 1/2" clearance to the frame rails or less on each side. Pretty sure a Phase II 2.2 or 2.5 won't fit an EA81 body without frame rail mods. Fit's in the EA82 body just fine.

Hmm....... I think you have your CAM sensor and Coil pack plugs switched. Or possibly the IAC plug and the Coil plug switched. I forget excactly which but a couple of those plugs will connect to eachother but of course the car won't run like that. Seen it happen a few times before.

That is a 2 diode holder. Each diode has a wire in, and a wire out. they prevent backflow of current. Your IG. switched 12v should feed to the Yellow wire. In stock configuration this wire is connected to the the ALT, and also directly to the coil. Power also then flows from yellow wire, though diode to Lt.Green wire and on to signal the ECU to turn "on" It's common in stripping the harness to end up cutting the connection between the coil yellow wire and the Alt yellow wire. Make sure there is continuity to the coil wire. The other 2 wires are for the fan control. Blue/Red comes from the ECU, out though the diode, becomes the White/red wire and then goes on out to provide ground for the fan (or trigger a relay, better way).

Under car, on passenger side of transmission.

I'm a bit further away but I could also take a look at it. Did I strip the harness for you?

So.....it's actually the contacts on the Park switch that are not connecting. All the indicator lights, and the P/N starter lockout are in the switch assembly bolted to the passenger side of the trans. It's one big sealed unit. You can scavenge one from almost any 90-98 automatic, or order a new one. OR......it's possible it just needs adjusted.....3 bolts hold it to the side of the trans, and if you loosen them, you can pivot the assembly so that the switch contacts close when the cable moves to the "P" position. Sounds like the thing they showed you at autozone is the CLUTCH safety switch for a manual. Neutral switch on a manual has nothing to do with starting.

You're CV axles will be at a pretty extreme angle, so will the camber.

Lower starter bolt insn't an issue on Automatics. the lower bolt is actually a stud in the case. There is a recessed hole under the starter ear that the engine to trans bolt goes through. Now on 98+ automatics, the lower starter mount IS one of the 8 bellhousing bolts. Again though, automatics, the lower starter mount is still just a stud, mounted in the trans case, just like all the older ones.

1. If using an 90-94 EJ22..... Swap all the wiring harness and the throttle body of the 2.5 onto the 2.2 intake. Use existing y-pipe from 2.5. No EGR, may thow a code. 2. If using an 95 EJ22 from Automatic....... Plug and play. Will have EGR nad every damn thing. Should be Dual port as well. 3. If using an 95 EJ22 from Manual....... Still plug and play, with the exception that you will not have EGR, may throw code. 4. If using an 96 to 98 EJ22 from Automatic........ Plug and play, will have EGR. But will be single port, need matching y-pipe. 5. If using and 96 to 98 EJ22 from manual...... Plug and play, no EGR, Single port....need y-pipe. So you see lots of combos are possible.......but only a 95, automatic, EJ22 will be a no modification affair. Also no need to swap ECUs at all. the 2.5 ECU will run any 2.2 if set up properly.

We've got a 90 Legacy running a 2006 2.5. Have to use a 2000-05 intkae though, as the 06 intake is thrttle by wire, and non returning fuel rail. Swap crank and Cam gears. Swap all wiring onto the newer intake. Swap Phase I throttle body onto Phase II intake. It's definately possible. I;m confused though.....I didn't think they still made 2.2s in 2007?

No. There is no "Neutral Safety" switch. You have a neutral switch, mounted to the trans, that the ECU monitors to know when to inject gas for idling. When you get a Nuetral Switch code, it's for this swtich. NOTHING to do with the clutch switch. If your car is a manual, 90 or newer.....it will also have a Clutch/Starter safety swtich. This is simply to prevent starting the engien without the clutch depressed. Not used by ECU. If it has cruise, there will be an additional clutch switch for the cruise. Again, not used by ECU.

Okay......clearing up misinformation Neutral switch, starter safety switch, adn the crusie clutch swtich are NOT the same. 3 different switches O.K.? Nuetral Switch is for both manuals and autos. Grounds out whenever the trans is in neutral. Mounted on trans in manuals, in shifter for autos. Switch allows the engine to idle without stalling. If trans is in gear, and thorttle is zero, no gas is injected, momentum of car keeps engine turning. But when in neutral, the ECU needs to inject a bit of gas, even when throttle is zero. A faulty neutral switch can cause stalling and idling problems. However, it is a frequent "ghost Code" like 11 and 13, and will come up alot if you are checking codes without actually drivng the car though a cycle. Clutch switch is used by Cruise control system. mounted on clutch pedal. normally closed contacts complete a circuit, then when the clutch is depressed, it breaks the circuit canceling cruise. this switch is not monitored by the ECU. Safety swtich (starter interlock) is also mounted on clutch pedal. NOrmally open, until clutch is depressed completing the circuit for the starter. Not used by ECU for engine operation. I don't think the neutral switch code has anything to do with the no start. sounds like a bad distributor to me.

Any quote from Firestone is 2x-3x too high. Huge parts mark up, $85+ an hour for labor, with inflated labor times. Oh plus, they don't know what they are doing with older Subies, and will likely screw something up. NEVER, EVER,EVER take your old suby to firestone. Find a local suby specialist.