Gloyale

Anybody else got good wheeling videos of their Suby lately?

The ECU needs a connection to +12v from battery to retain learned fuel/timing maps in memory. The OBD II port cannot be "grounded" It may have a pin that connects to ground. But the entire connector itself is not "grounded. At any rate.....by conectiing there, you are applying whatever weird wave of solar voltage through the connector and in parallel to whatever other devices are on that circuit before it goes through any fuses. So you have no protection for the ECU and other items on that circuit if your charger pushes too high voltage It's the weakest rated circuit in the car amp handling wise, and also the most sensitive being as it's the ECU backup supply. Why on earth would you risk hooking some random voltage "backwards" through it with no fuse protection for the other devices on that circuit? Charge should go straight to battery, through a heavy gauge wire and fuse. Not parallel to the ECU unfused, M'kay?

Had this problem on my wife's 03 LLbean. Problem was the outer layer (red) was separating at it's seem along the upper edge with the inner body of the piece (black) The fix was multi-pronged approach. 1) Remove the whole assembly, wash it with warm soapy water, rinse thoroughly, and dry well. 2) I ran a bead of right stuff RTV between the outer panel upper lip and the inner, black body of the assembly. Used my finger to wipe the RTV deep into the seam, smoothing it out with the finger. Across the entire length of the upper seam. 3) Let that dry fully. 4) Install onto the tailgate using beads of RTV around the sealing lips and around bolt holes. This worked well and I've had no repeat leaks.

I used to polish glass. I know what a proper surface is, and a few passes of 150 grit don't get you there. Glass is not a perfect plane, and 150 grit leaves DEEP scratches that themselves are deeper than the .02mm surface prep spec. And even if it is perfectly "flat" it may not be truelly parallel plane to the crank centerline/ Perpendicular to the bore. Glad it's working for you. But If I told my customers I was gonna use sandpaper to refinsh their heads, they would run....rightly. I remember when you "developed" this method and YOU YOURSELF titled the thread "post apocalyptic" machine techniques. Now it's a totally normal professional accepetable method that others should trust paying you thousands of $ to do to their cars? And I took the Cams off of an 05 Baja Turbo just last week. Proper tools.....no Problem. Not all Subarus use Viton seals either. Many non-turbos use black Buna-n seals. And many of my customers cars have been apart and screwed off by others, so I have to double check and re-do shoddy work all The time. Cheap-o cranks seals, timing belts sets, HGs seen it all.

I have a hard time believing that sending out rotors to turn would force you to put a %600 mark up on them. Run your shop how you want but sure smacks of rushing jobs, cut corners, and price gouging to me. I hope it's not. I haven't heard of anyone complaining about your shop. And you are knowledgable enough to know how to take good care of Subarus. Maybe it's just the tone of this thread and I'm wrong. The impression of you I've had for the past 10 years is that you do things right or not at all. My customers leave paying $45 for the turning ($10 markup for handling) the price of their brake pads,(usually $40-50) and $40 labor for changing pads on most Subarus. Usually less than $150 total. I can't justify chargin anyone more than that for hangin pads. I would rather do easy jobs like brakes and axles for the lowest price possible for folks and get the return business when they need bigger work like Wheel bearings, Clutches, and HGs.

Glass bead them and have them powder coated.

I think calling Non-OE inferior to properly turned, Within thickness according to SUBARU, is a stretch. My wife had 3 sets of different "new" rotors put on her Forrester always making vibration. My OE subaru rotors turned once or maybe twice, (IDK car has 240K) on my Forester never shake. Aren't there any city delivery guys in your area that could make a run once a day? Cheaper than the difference in buying quality rotors. I get it. It's not in your business interest. But it is in the individual Subaru owners best interest I think to keep the quality, OE rotors when possible. They aren't $85+ a piece for no reason. You get what you pay for. I just think this forum and this in particular is geared toward DIY owners. And for those that are far away from quality machine resources, new could be the way to go. Or if the rotors are trashed from neglecting pad change, and too thin for spec, sure get new ones.

WHAAA!!!???? Just read this. Even without disassmbling the carrier you can pop new seals in there in seconds. they are like $7 bucks a piece. So cheap why would you not do them? Viton seals DO Leak. I won't do a HG or Timing belt job WITHOUT replacing those. C'mon man......sounds too much like cutting corners to me.

I always disassemble all my heads before I drop off at the machinist, and then reseal them completely. I also use this opportunity to reset valve clearances. Seen lots of them leaking at the Cam case seam. Yes it takes time but it's the very best way and that is all I give my customers.....The very best work. Soooo.....GD, let me get this straight, you "do headgaskets" on customer cars by simply popping new gaskets onto an assembled head, without surfacing them (i would contend your method is not surfacing, but debris removal, Get's the surface nice and shiny a kinduv uniform......But it's not a "true" plane. ...It's how I prep intake surfaces but not the head or Deck) And then reassemble? do you even bother pulling them to do Seperator plate? Do you do Oil pump re-seal? Do you clean carbon from pistons? Do you re-ring the pistons? Why do all that wonderful work but NOT disassemble and surface the heads? If it's a time,at the machinist,I think you are trying to service too many cars too quickly. What do you do for Dual Cam heads? Gotta take cams out just to get the head bolts. So what's the reasoning there? Those heads leak INTERNAL and MUST be a perfect surface or they won't last. Just trying to understand how you can be such a wonderfully knowledgable and competent mechanic but be against the advise of Machine surfacing. You are usually a do it right or not at all kinda guy.

i don't do rush jobs. the machine shop is close by and does rotors quickly. I am dropping off stuff often enough he takes good care of me quickly. Old timer, amazing shop. Bob Forrest Engine Rebuilders. I give him as much business as I possibly can because someday he'll be gone and that local resource will no longer be available. Besides....it takes time to order and get parts too.

check the blend door cable connection. passenger side footwell along right side of center console.

transfer the wiring from the 25D intake onto the 94 and it will work. no need to source another intake.

Yes aftermarket rotors for subarus are cheap. But you get what you pay for. Factory Subaru rotors are made from a high grade steel, with higher resistance to rust and corrosion than cheap chinese Autozone garbage. Also less likely to warp from rapid heat/cool cycles seen when driving in snow/rain often. Subaru rotors are around $80+ a piece. They are stamped with a thickness limit. Usually they can be turned at least twice. If there is room, I will ALWAYS turn an OE subie rotor before throwing it away for Rock Auto junk. I have mine surfaced locally on a turntable. Water cooled during the cut, leaves a precision crosshatch unlike an old "scratch needle" on a lathe. Same machine that surfaces my Flywheels. Costs $35 for a set. You can't buy 2 new cheapo rotors for that price, let alone good ones from Subaru. If you aren't spending over at least $40 buck a piece for rotors you are getting JUNK!

I have all my heads surfaced on a precision mill made for the job. costs $115 plus $25 for the initial cleaning. i think that is just a little better than randomly scratching the piss out of em with sandpaper. I would never do that to a set of heads that were going to be seled withan MLS gasket. Maybe old EA heads with the thick composite gasket. but for an EJ.....not worth cheaping out.

Totally different engine management Intakes will not swap between the two. Really need a DOHC 96-99 2.5 for the 99 DOHC car. Or an Phase I 2.2. SOHC 2.5 will fit all 4cy legacy/Outbacks 2000-2005, and 99-2005 Forresters

pads will wear more quickly if you don't resurface the rotors. otherwise, no it's not necessary. The brakes will still work just changing pads.

sounds like you got the temp gauge sorted. You can just leave that wire unhooked. For oil light, I just ran the wire to the gauge in the car. Basically using the needle as a "light." Confuses people who drive because "normal" is Oil Pressure at zero, and key on, Eng Off or failed/no pressure spikes the gauge to over 70. For temp I wired in a 270 ohm resitor to ground in parallel to the EJ sender and then hooked that to the stock gauge. Reads pretty close to correct for the mid temp range. If it gets to 3/4 on the gauge, I know that is actually like full in the red.

don't remember exactly. But I do know that the position of the white and the Green wires in the disty connector must be swapped to use an 87 in an 88+ or vice versa (88+ disty in the 87) The reason is that actually the Ref and Signal pins are reversed at the ECU, for both SPFI and MPFI models after 88+. But ECU pins are hard to move in the connector so reversing them at the disty is easiest.

Decided to go this route from the start, so when I thinned the harness, I left the ECU, TCU, and Cruise wiring all in the loom. If I had an EZ car as a donor I would do that. Got the 4cy car for the right price s went that route, but the EZ30 with 4.11 in an XT6 would be incredibly awesome combo.

Oil pressure light and Gauge temp wire. Can't remember which is which but pretty sure that's it. And also why they are not included in detail in engine wiring diagrams since neither is actually part of MPFI system just gauge info.

hmmm I got a fews sets and no plans for building another EA82.

It's not the lift that changed, it's the valve timing. Pretty hard to measure that.......you either didn't measure right, or the Cams had been swapped. From the FSM 86 IMG_2753 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr 87 IMG_2754 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

You got bad info from an Idiot who doesn't know how to look in an FSM From the 90 Legacy FSM. Same setup, Applicable to all Legacy models until 99 and Impreza/Forrester until 08. Now being an 90 FSM, there is some Japanese to English translation issues so context has to be inferred. This clearly shows the bearing as a point to install grease. IMG_2751 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And this, although worded weirdly is instruction to repack with appropriate grease, "removing" the packing grease. IMG_2750 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here, this means to leave the new bearing parts toghether, witht eh plastic shipping piece holding the 2 parts into the outer race. Should say "with" not "when" IMG_2749 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr You can't really pack these with too much. Packed properly, the grease will be in amongst the rollers. wipe off excess from inside and outer lip before putting seals in and you are good to go. There is no air cavity between like old EA type, so the hub will push out excess grease when pressed in.

good call. the hub was likely stripped out anyhow after the axle nut failing.

Those aren't EGR pipes. They are ASV (air Suction Valve) system parts. Supposed to prevent backfires and make cleaner tail pipe emissions. EGR port is on the top of the passenger side head. Above cyl 3. Exactly the same on all EA82s.