Gloyale

+1. sounds like one (left) isn't working correctly. When one sides fuse or relay is out, power backfeeds though the ground from the oher side headlight and glows the lamp dim.

Do a compression check on the engine. Sounds like you have a burnt valve. The O2 is reading off from the unburned fuel, then trying to lean the rest out to get to the proper mix. Of course the mixture isn't the problem, it's the dead cylinder. Easy fix with a valve job and a set of headgaskets.

When I did my Auto to Manual conversion (mine was a 4EAT) I left the dash, but I rigged the 4wd and LO switches to the "3" and "2" lights in the dahs respectively. I just had to make an adapter plug the 5spd wiring into the original 4EAT indicator plug in the cars harness (engine bay above tranny). 3AT I think is a little different as the switches for the indicator are on auto shifter, not on the side of the trans. And you can use your 4wd light, and just wire the LO light to the "1"

FWIW, if the XT (vortex) has cruise already, you can leave the cruise computer in the EJ harness, and mate the XT buttons and Vac pump to the EJ cruise computer. The EJ cruise units are much better. Use the EJ cruise cable/actuator......the XT one, mounted to the pedal box with the little chain to pull the peddle SUCKS.

I've also noticed that some aftermarket boots are too short for the inner joint, espescially with a lifted rig. Just undo the small clamp, and slide the end of the boot a bit further in towards the cup and re clamp.

2wd struts are shorter. Get some off a 4wd wagon, sedan, or coupe. FWIW, those are 14" Nissan truck steels. They are only 5mm wider offset than stock subaru wheels. Should clear with 4wd struts.

Change out the EJ ignition relay.

2 words. Pitch stopper. There IS a reason for it. Without one, you WILL tear your motor mounts, it's just a matter of time.

95 ECU has one large plug, just like the 96 BUT.........the 95 ECU has a different pin configuration....make sure you are using a 95 year diagrahm. I would check and double check all the grounds. But I have definately seen crossed wires cause an ECU to fail. (seen it in a Loyale w/ SPFI)

Hey, Check out my HighGuys Lifts page in the vendor section. I make an inexpensive 2" kit for your car. I also make larger kits too (for a higher price.) PM me for details

EA82 rack is a possibility. EJ (legacy) rack is way to wide to use without modification. I've put EJ racks into EA82 cars with all stock parts.

Raditator hose is meant to resist gycol, not oil and fuel. It WILL rott and start seeping oil within 1-3 years. Carquest...and lot's of others have 5/8ths evap hose. Sometimes the clerks are too dumb to find it. Gotta say Evap hose In a pinch Fuel line or Trans cooler line is a better option......though you;ll need to go to a Truck Service shop to find it that big:rolleyes:)

Uhhh.....Since "dieseling" on shut down happens in the absence of spark(key off) I'm gonna say that's not the case. Ussually, fuel, not ignition timing that causes dieseling. You may have stopped by lowering the cylinder temps with the timing correction, but that's not why it's dieseling. Dieseling after shutdown could be a bad float needle in the carb(overflowing bowl). Or some other issue in the carb, pehaps the the slow air bleed is blocked(excessive fuel pulled through idle circuit). Or even as simple as the the antidieseling solenoid failed (usually they fail the closed, not open. Won;t stsy running at idle I would suggest a cheap rebuild kit for the carb. They are VERY easy to take apart and clean the jets and emulsion tubes. Pull the air horns out, and replace the little o-rings that seal them. Don't mess with the power valve, just spray it out good. Install new needle and seat, and new gaskets.

May be hanging by just a strand or two of wire. And actually they will run if it's only one of the 3 wires one each sensor that breaks. (+, -, Shield)

Check the connection of the crank and cam sensor wires. Make sure none of those wires are getting twisted or ferayed near the connector end. Cuttinng out fuel seems like it could be the Cam sensor.

EJ tach wire is black w/blue stripe.

You need a HighGuys lift. Or any lift. Just a lift. Bad. Those tires are gonna be stuffed against the fenders the first time you go wheeling.

hitachi's get a bad rap. It's really a SUPER simple carb. there is ONE little ball, that goes in the bottom of the accelerator pump, but otherwise nothing to lose. Pull it apart, clean it, and put it back in. You can actually leave it on the manifold, in the car and do all that's needed (unless the baseplate is leaking) rebuild kits cost $20 bucks. I rebuilt one yesterday in about an hour and the car then ran like a top, lot's of power. If you really are trying to save money....that's the cheapest way.

It may be less than 1/4 inch. Brake caliper "float" hides the misalignment of the rotor, but it's there. Won't cause any issues till pads get thin, one side can then fall out of the bracket when using EA82 hubs on an EA81.

Crank engine with cap off and watch to see if Rotor is turning. The belt could be intact, but stripped and not spinning with the engine. If you do need a disty, you will need one from an 85 or 86 4wd. You can also use an 87 4wd disty, but it's a Denso, and you need to get the coil that matches.

EA81 hubs are "thicker" The journal that seats against the bearing is taller by about 1/4 inch. Using EA81 hubs on an EA82 knuckle will put the rotor 1/4" further out from the backing plate........works, but not ideal for the brakes. I do not recommend. For the cone washer, if it has a lip built up on the beveled edge, file it off. that lip will keep the washer from seating all the way into the hub. Before even messing with that, ispect the splines in the hubs. Look for a slight flat spot on the tops of each ridge. If that isn;'t there, and the ridges look pointed with no flat spot...the hub is shot.

Heads need swapped. Pistons are compatible as long as he's not turboing it. Otherwise, sounds like he's got it right. need: Dual port heads ECU and harness Intake Fuel pump Distributor Coil Airflow sensor Y-pipe with 02 sensor (any exhaust shop can add a O2 bung) And, if the MPFI is early, flapper type....he'll need the Knock control unit too. If it's a later MPFI, he'll need the Dropping Resistor for the Injectors. Overall......not really worth it. He should do an EJ swap. Same work for better results.

There are 2 different diameter of EA81 shafts. One of them is the same as the 90-98 EJ axle cups. I use Legacy rear DOJ's (23 spline) to repair EA81 axles all the time.

Takes me about an hour to strip down. (90-98 non-turbo harnesses) After that, it's about 2 hours of careful labeling, splicing, and re-wraping the harness. I offer that service for $180. If you'd like to ship me a harness, I will strip it and send it back. PM me for details.

:sad: You should warn people before you post Subaru Snuff Flicks, you sick sick b@stard.