Gloyale

No website as of yet. PM me here or email me Loveyoursubaru@yahoo.com

Speed sensor. opens/closes 4 times per revolution of the speedocable. That pulse is converted to a speed signal by ECU.

Adjust the inner ends of the radius arms. Push them out to get the camber, and adjust the front one in/out for toe.

"the Right Stuff" is far better. RTV will work, but will leak in a year or two.

That holes is pretty deep too. You could use a 5mm longer bolt for a quick fix. Otherwise remove the bracket and helicoil, or just replace with a new one.

HighGuys (Mr. GLegacy and I) also sell adapter plates. $125 I also offer harness stripping for EJ swaps.

$180 + shipping for harness strip. $125 for adapter. I've got a redrilled 5spd flywheel too I'd sell you for $50......will need resurfaced.

There is no clutch smoke. It's all tire and brake pads from front E-brake usage. Tires are old A/T's not worried about burning them. And like I said. Airing down was a last resort. I made it without needing to. Also, frankly, I feel I would have broken an axle with a welded diff, so I'm actually happy to have left it at home. I've been hearing you talk tons of big game for years about how badass you and your cars will be.......yet to see any videos:rolleyes:. Proof is in the MPEG. Your turn.

The old ECU wiring will actually be very helpful in wiring in the new MPFI legacy harness. You can find all the wires you need to tap into right there. Just unplug the old ECU. That's it. Then add the wires you need to splice from the EJ ECU right there. FSM's readily I'D all the nessecary wires. These are.... Check engine light (CEL) Speed Sensor (VSS) Tach (out from EJ ECU to gauge) Neutral switch positon You can also use those plugs to pull you're IG. switched 12v, to trigger on you're EJ Ignition relay. However, Grounds in those connectors will mostly be disconnected, as they were grounded to the intake of the old engine. But if the loom is stripped right, everything will ground though the new EJ harness/engine so not really an issue.......depends on how you set up the harness. When you get ready to swap, I offer loom stripping. I've got adapterplates down here too. PM me for details

EGR is between head and intake. No hole in the shortblock. Besides, a 96 EJ22 from an outback would be from a manual trans car, with no EGR at all. Just like the earlier cars with a few tweaks to the wiring, and the addition of a MAP. otherwise identical setups. Oh yeah...96 is single port exhaust heads with rollers.(you may want to consider swapping the cams and rockers from the 96 ont eh heads you use:grin:) The swap will work perfectly. You can even use the 96 intake, fuelrails, and injectors, and evap....you may have to swap on the 90 Throttle body to use the 90 TPS. Then just swap the 90 engine loom onto the 96 intake.

Yeah, it really comes down to bore size. The larger bore of the EJ25 leaves a very narrow seal around the top of the open cylinder deck.

O.K. well that's good. So if that's all correct let's start over. I would check the battery connections, the ground cable connection, and also the condition of the fat white wire going from Alt to Fusible link box. If it's all stiff, and the copper is dark brown, you could benifit from replacing it. It's fried and old from 25 years of 55 amp current. Now you're trying to push 70 or 80 through it. My next guess.

Whoa, that's weird. What is you're original EA charge light wire hooked to? (White/red stripe wire in EA alt plug) With that wire unhooked, the light should stay on all the time.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol: You figure wrong. A good, known running, even high mileage 2.2 will cost more like 300-500 at least. Yard here charges me $100 for an ECU and Harness. Though they ussually have been cut and hacked, so you kinda have to find a car that just came in. Even then, you don't know if it all still works. Do yourself a favor. Buy a beat up Legacy that at least runs and use all the parts from the same car. You'll end up doing things 5 times over, the hard way trying to go the J-yard route.

Missed 12? I thought you were camped right next to me and Gemini? (Clifford, the big red Legacy) Did you mean missed 11?

Re-use them, you won't know the differnce.

Re-reading. And thinking more about this. I'd say, don't bother with this trans. Sounds like it's been opened and messed up. There is a pin inside the LH case, between the selector forks, that makes it so only one selector fork can be moved at a time. If they replaced the "gear link" (thinking the collar that connects the 1st and 2nd gears to the pinion shaft when activated) they may have had to remove the selector forks, and consequently, the pin. They may have not gotten that rotten little hard as @#@% little pin back into it's place. they may have lost it, or left it out when unable to figure out what it does. It HAS to be missing, or else there is no way to get into more gears than one. No matter what the linkage does.

You can drop just the crossmembers and let it droop down in back a bit to get to it. Eaiser on an OUtbakc or Forrester as opposed to a Leg. I would tend to think opening it up would be a good idea too. But if you can reset the forks. it might be worth a try.

My machinist reports to me that MOST of the subaru heads he does are about .002 off on the lower right corner. Probably a result of the fast cutting, factory machines that produce MILLIONS off these heads. I will skip the machining on a 2.2, but NEVER on a 2.5 And the finish my machinist produces is like glass.........flawless. Maybe I'm just lucky.

You shouldn't HAVE to. But it would make it much easier. Not my origianl suggestion though. IDK though......it may be tough without a real good "mental image" to work from. You migh want to take of the rear of trans. It's not too hard really:rolleyes:

This is the problem. The B/W wire is for the Charge light. It NEEDS to go through a load, to a power source. That is why the "charge" light and fuse are on that wire. Simply hook it to the W/R wire from the original ea body wiring. OR.........Hook up a charge light. Run switched 12v to a bulb, connect the ground side of the bulb to the B/W alt wire. The light will illuminate when the key is on, eng. off. (grounding through alt.) When the engine starts, and the alt puts out voltage, it drives the ground side high, and turns out the light. You WILL burn out you're alt if you don't correct this. Hook your voltmeter up to an Ig. switched 12v (can be the same as the yellow wire if you want)

Ball joint. With it on jackstands, place a pry bar between the knuckle and the control arm, (just behind the balljoint) and pry. There should be no balljoint movement. IF there is....it's the ball joint.

Plate on top rear. ONce removed, look down inside.....you can see the shift rod goes through that section of the case. it has a little "finger" bolted to it that engages the reverse check. 10 mm bolt (use a 1/4 drive socket on an extension) The 3 plugs are right on the side of the trans. They are simply detent ball holders. again, 10mm heads. You could check out my "easy front seal" replacement thread.....it's got some good pics and a writeup of disassembly/reassembly.

A 2x4 wood block wedged between the Alt pulley and the upper lip of the radiator support keeps the engine from rocking forward, makes angles better for reinstall.

4 pulses for each revolution of the speedo cable. Some people have used a generator that puts out about a 35 mph pulse? works to keep the puter happy.