Gloyale

Not a mi9x match. All the PCV hoses fit correct, no odd bends. the boot between the boxes has the correct bend. It's all the OE setup. Just an oddball model. 99 Leg brighton. Phase II 2.2 CA model.

On the 97 and 98 models it is just a plenum. BUT! this one isn't. It clips open, there is a filter in there. The car would not run because that box was not closed up right, and air was leaking at the seems. Watch close again, you can see the 3 clips that hold it closed along the top. This car HAS something I'd never seen before. that's why I posted it.

Potentially more power out of a well tuned weber. However, it will constantly need adjusting to keep the peak H.P. Depend on your cams, the weather, and the price of tea in china For good power, everyday, in the real world, with no warm up or off angle running issues, go SPFI.

Yeah, the tube is common. I'm used to that. This car literally has 2 airboxes, and 2 filters. Did you watch the video? You can see both airboxes in the video. The second one is right behind the engine.. It's the same box as used on the 2000+ models.

4.11 final drive. not sure about the rest. Gotta be in 2 gears at once. might be able to reset it by unsecrewing the cover plate on the AWD extension, and removing the reverse check arm screw (allow the shift rod to float free). Then remove the 3 plugs, springs, and balls from the fork detents (drivers side, about halfway up the trans). ONce you do that, the forks should all be free to shift to the Nuetral position. Look in the holes for the each rod to be on the center notch. Reinstall the detent balls and springs. Now the shift rod can be reset into the forks, and the reverse lockout screw replaced.

Pin 31 to ground = "test mode" or "d-check" Only displays ACTIVE faults, not past or intermittent ones. Pin 39 to ground = "read mode" , outputs past stored codes.....more useful finding intermittent problems than D-check. Both 31 and 39 connected to ground = "clear memory" Hook up both to ground, start and run engine for 30 seconds over 2k rpm, drive 1mph to trigger speed sensor or you will get a code for that that won't clear.

So, I got a call from a customer the other day. He had changed his airfilter(s) on his 99 Leg brighton, and now his car will not stay running. Starts, runs a few seconds, dies. Well, we all know by now that this is likley a unmetered air leak (like an IAC hose or PCV hose disconnected) So I arrange to go meet the guy, look at the car. And I find something I've never seen before. This car has both the fender mounted airbox/filter, with the MAF bolted to it, and ALSO, the long rectangular in the housing right off throttle body. I've seen the old style cars with the fender mounted, and the newer cars with the Throttle body mounted style........but never BOTH on the same car. Seemed comp[letely original too, not some hacked in setup. I took a video of it. Well, turned out the problem WAS an air leak. He had not seated the tabs on the second air filter box. ANd because this was downstream of the MAF, it acted just like an unhooked hose. Measured Gallons per second of air were 1~2 at idle. Once reconnected, and running proper, G/S were up around 4~5 at idle.

Any steel six lug Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, Chevy, etc...... Just make sure it has a flat surface between the existing holes. You need a nice flat area between 2 of the holes to drill new holes.

4EAT not introduced in U.S. until 88 model year.

it would likely make that harder.

Possibly the bearing that supports the transfer clutch hub. Easy to replace by removing tranny tailshaft.

Does the Tachometer jump while you crank it over? If so, you've got pulse. Check for 12v on the center wire of the coil connector. Double check the connectors for the Cam and Crank sensors at the back of the block.

Yes they do fail. I've seen at least 3 cars where installing a new TCU solved the Torque bind. (after replaceing clutches and duty c DIDN'T)

Use the hashmarks. Not the arrows. The crank sprocket the mark is on the tab in the back, hard to see. It is directly opposite of the woodruff key. (key should be at 6 o'clock) Also, the notches in the plastic covers are sometimes shifted a hair from defromation of the plastic over time. Put the marks EXCACTLY at 12 o'clock, even if they are slightly off the notches. This here looks one tooth off to the left. Mark should be straight up and down.

Sorry bout the tranny hijack. Nice warm air intake :wink:

Those rims are WAAAAAY too wide. They are 8 inches wide. you need 6" wide with a shallow offset. These rims from early 90's toyota work perfect, and won't stick out at all.

You've got your crank case sealed up. That's why pressure is building. There is no reason to cap the PCV system. Hook it back up and you will be fine. It does'nt cause any power loss, and it will make your oil and your engine last longer. At the very least, put filters on the PCV ports on the valve covers so you don't have a sealed case.

Belt and tensiononers only = Just pull fans. Water pump replacement too = Pull the whole radiator with fans attached.

FYI the head bolts do NOT need to be replaced. They are NOT torque to yeild bolts. Felpro just wants to sell you bolts. Subaru does not recommend bolt replacement. (You tell me how a steel bolt will stretch in aluminum treads? threads would strip out.) Use Subaru OE gaskets, reuse the bolts. You'll be fine. Also, the fact that the same shop that did the work is telling you now it's failed. How long ago? Why won't they fix it? They want to tell you it's "not worth it" because otherwise they look bad for not doing a good job the first time. Also.........it's a false equation to compare "cost of fix" vs. "worth" of vehicle" Vehichles you own to drive, NEVER make you money. They always cost something to drive, and as they get older, there value bottoms while repair costs stay about the same on a monthly/yearly basis (at least subaurs do). By that logic, if the car is only "worth" 300-500 dollars.....it wouldn't even be worth putting tires or brakes on. But if that was all it needed to drive another 6 mo. It would be cheaper to buy tires than a new car, but the tires will be more than the car is "worth" You have to compare "cost of fix" vs. "cost of replacement". And you have to consider that you're "replacement" may have unknown problems coming up. To get something with known service history will be even more. To get the same reliability, with a known history you would have with your OB, you will undoubtly have to spend 2-3x more than the $1500 that a shop would charge (high price unless they are doing T-belt and W-pump too)

The vacuum tube that supplys the vent switches is disconnected. Check it under the hood (pass side of engine, running to firewall area) and then if it's hooked up there, look up under the dash near the top of the pedals and see if it's unhooked there.

Yeah, my 89 GL has a Single range 4wd gearset in an EJ case. No adapter, EJ clutch. I really like the setup. It's not lifted, but see's lot's of dirt roads and mild trails so the P/T 4wd is great.

Our EJ trans here are all single range. The case halves won't accept a true RX box (FT4wd and Dual Range). You can do it with single range part time and fulltime L series gears into an EJ case. But for dual range you need a plate. At least here in the states.

You'll need the 4 spd one. I have one I could send you. PM me for more info if you want.

Tie rod end holes are slightly different IIRC. Best thing to do is the whole EA82 front end swap, Then you can use entire EA82 crossmember, rack, control arms, knuckles, brakes, axles, and hubs. All of which are easier to find than old EA81 stuff. Also, EA82 pwr str. racklines will bolt directly to EJ PS pump lines for ease of future EJ swap. And in fact, the EA crossmember will even accept an EJ rack with a little modification. Do the whole front end swap. The wide front end stance is awesome.

If it's from an SVX it won't work. It'll be 3.54, not 3.7 , and requires SVX only, asymetrically stubbed, male axles. Perhaps he meant a 3.7 from an XT6? that would eb bolt in. You'd however need to fit the LSD chunk with a 3.9 ring, and install it in a case with a matching 3.9 pinion.