Gloyale

Here's a good one showing the whole upper section. You can get a bit of a sense of how big the rocks are, and how steep the hill is.

Yeah, Open diff for sure. This was a spur of the moment trip, didn't have time to put the Welded diff in or I would've been holding up the crew. So I went open. Dual Front E-brake made up the difference. Tires were at about 35 psi (55 recommended for street, LT's) So I know I could have aired down a whole lot more. Without a compressor, I had no way to air back up so I wasn't dropping them unless I NEEEEDED too (stuck). As for walking, spotting, and trying new. Alot of that just isn't in the video. I did walk each run a few times before going up. Spotters were very helpful in directing the use of the Dual Ebrake. And they put a few strategic rocks down in front of the larger boulders to help. (trying something different:wink: ) Check out my youtube for a few more soon.

Subaru Wheelin for fun, agreed. I'm totally into having friendly community around our subes. Sorry if I was flickin ya a little too much 'tude.

3 inches won't work on a Loyale without lowering the subframe......at least for the fronts for sure. Your axles will be at so steep an angle, they will hit the control arm mount of the crossmember. You could perhaps get away with just blocking down the subframe 1-2 inches, and going 3" on tops.

Hmm.....Did your legacy have a 4inch or larger lift? If not, you would not have made it up this..(at least not without some major rocker damage) At least that is my opinion and I'd LOVE to wheel with you and be proven wrong. (I've been wrong before, and will accept it if proven. SO post up YOUR video) But to address your comments...... Automatic has a Torque converter which allows you to roll on throttle slowly and creep. Plus, these rocks are all wet. This wasn't a dry day. So "crawling" wasn't really possible 'cause the tires won't grip wet rocks. Also, you were welded.....had I had my welded in it would have been MUCH easier. And finally, swampers........yeah I'm on 235/75/15 worn out wild cat A/Ts....... I am COMPLETELY happy with the cars performance, especially when you consider these facts.

You are correct. that is why I was in Low Range during this entire video:grin: Drivetrain is: 96 EJ18 88 5spd D/R trans (3.9) any lower would require a transfercase. More videos http://www.youtube.com/user/Gloyale?feature=mhum#p/a/u/0/BzuwCroTFnM http://www.youtube.com/user/Gloyale?feature=mhum#p/a/u/1/o--lCIpnZPk

Those prices will change, and the engines will soon be getting harder to find. Good 2.2s are $500-900 round here. Anything less $ is questionable history and milage. Recently, I've been replacing alot of 2.2 head gaskets as well. They do fail, Just like the all the other subaru engines to some extent. I've personally had HG failure in an EA81, EA82, EA82T, EJ22. and EJ25s. Also, there is exhaust issues, single vs. dual port, with newer engines being single port, not bolt on to a 2.5 and the old Dual port motors the harnesses don't plug and play, so you have to swap. That said.....if it makes sense for your circumstances, do the swap. Espescially for a Manual trans, the power loss is much less noticable when you can Rev it out a bit more than the auto TCU will. IDK, I think repair the 2.5. Doing a bearing replacement if needed. I mean, c'mon......splitting cases isn't THAT hard.

Took a recent trip with a friend who just got a jeep up to shotgun OHV park outside Marcola, OR. Last time here, it was mud ruts. Now it's boulders. Awesome. I was able to make it even with just my open diff in. (left the welded at home) The jeep didn't go up this. LInks are to the first 2 youtube vids. I'm loading more now.

This is completely dependant on what type of lift. I have a 6 inch lift on my 84 GL I rerouted my hardlines to a new hole, lower in the inner feder. I also unclipped the lines from the strut mounts, and ziptie them higher up.

What year/model body is the swap in. From what you say, the alt wiring seems right. you say: "fat white goes to battery, yellow goes to switched +12v, black is voltmeter." White should go thorough a fusible link back to the battery. I usually just hook the to the original EA fat, white, alternator wire. The Yellow wire (assuming you mean from the EJ alt wiring) should be hooked to switched 12v. This should be the same 12v source that powers the EJ harness 12v switched. (goes into diode, becomes the Lg wire that triggers main relay) The "black" wire, (It should be Black/white stripe actually) should be hooked to the "Charge" light. ....... Now in an EA81 car, this would indeed be in the Voltmeter assembly, but it isn't actually the same circuit. In an EA82 car the light is located totally seperately in the lower dash. IN either case, the best place to connect the Black/white wire to is the original EA charge light wire, which should be a red/white wire in EA alt harness. **note** If the swap is into an '81 or earlier body, you must unplug the original external VR. When you do, you're EJ harness wiring will connect there at the VR, rather than at the EA alt wiring pigtail.

No. Not unless it's been modified. Any LSD with male stubs will have a sticker that says so. Big letters "LSD" One from a legacy would say "VLSD"

Sounds like you bought EA82 power steering stuff. You need an EA81 pump, which mounts to the passenger side of block. Has a long snout. There is also a tensioner bracket that goes on the lower passenger side, front of engine. The rack also is different. youneed one for an EA81. Also you need the steering ocupler with it. You're non-power coupler is different.

2000 4eat is a Phase II trans. (8 bolt bell, spin on filter, 2 VSS and a Torque sensor) These trans are about 2-3 inches shorter than the EA82 and other pre-98 4eats. Not the easy bolt in that you speak of. That would work well with a pre-98 4EAT. Besides, 4EAT's hydraulic 4wd transfer is not any more reliable than the gears of a D/R 5spd. Either way, if you are REALLY wheelin' you will break something.

Actually, it wasn't until late 97 that the 2.2 became interference. All EJ18's are non-interference. And I've seen 2 cases personally on SOHC 2.5s where the belt slips 3 or 4 teeth,(siezed pulley) without any valve damage. They aren't always garbage after lossing a belt. But for this poster, with a DOHC, he definately has bent valves. If you can I.D. which side it is, you can service one head and reinstall for 500-800 bucks. Heck, I've got a few heads I could sell cheap. PM me.

Just to clarify...... You say 88 Hatch. If that were acurate, youd have a carb, not F.I with a throttle body. Since you describe the "u shaped" gasket, I assume this car is F.I., which means it is probably a 3-door coupe. Not a true "hatchback" You have a 3-door coupe, SPFI, EA82 engine. an 88 "hatch" would be the older, early 80's bodty, and have an EA71 or EA81, with a carb.

If the oil pump seized, that would stop the belt. I'd say pull the pump out and inspect it. Reseal the snout of the pump (small shaft seal), and install new "mickey mouse" gasket and O-ring.

You need to look up the definition of the word "coast"

He would also have to run the MPFI engine managment. Basically as much work as an EJ swap. *note* There was an N/A, MPFI engine offered in the 85 and possibly 86 GL-10s. Mostly if not all 2wd. I've seen one, ....only one...., personally.

Does your speedometer work? If not, the cruise won't work. Also, check the vacuum line that goes to the crusie cable actuator, it's mounted in the engine bay, on the firewall, just a bit to the drivers side of center.

I've got an EJ18 in my wheeler. Pushes the 30" tires pretty well. Revs happily to 6K+ all the time, and has never even hiccuped. The EJ18 is a great motorI'd argue it more durable than the EJ22 even. It has thicker cylinder walls with no bolt notches, and larger cooling jackets around the cyliders. Most are roller rocker. Great gas milage when you keep your foot out of it. Definately minus a few ponies compared to the EJ22, but when you are puttin it in a light EA body, it will still feel very powerful compared to an EA motor.

Angle didn't present any problems. U-joint coupler has enough "bend" in it to work fine. And now the car has a 1" subframe spacer on the engine crossmember, which helps even more. (made a longer coupler) But like I said, angle was not an issue for us, even before the lift.

Not many (if any at all) are selectable FWD/4WD.

I offer harness strip down. PM me for details, or email me LeosGlass@yahoo.com

Someone wanted to tap into Battery power and did it there at the starter, rather than at the battery. Bad thing is that at least the red wire doesn't have a fuse on it.

In addition to the harness, you need the MAF, and the Transistor, along with MAP sensor and switching solenoids, if Harness is from an OBD II car. Also, you need a Y-pipe that matches the engine, either single or dual port depending on year of EJ22. DEFINATLEY will want to add a pitch stopper. EJ manual trans bracket will bolt onto the EA 5spd, then make your stopper to fit.