Gloyale

Order it with you're kit:grin: PM me directly if you want more info on prices and shipping quote.

Find the Fuel pump relay, and I.D the Ignition switched 12v and the fuel pump 12v out. Get the FPCU and the wiring pigtail from a carbed car. ("rev sensor" 5 wires, mounted above the hood release) IIRC, these are the colors, using the pigtail, splice: Black wire to ground. Blue to 12v from Ig power wire to the OE relay. Yellow to coil Neg (-) Blue/black stripe to Fuel pump output wire on OE relay. IIRC, the other wire from that unit supplys 12v to choke and bowl vent in the OE configuration. You may or may not want to wire it up that way.

Yeah, but they wear out VERY quickly. Less than 10k miles. (read: replace in a year if they are on a Daily Driver)

I didn't mention a site. I linked you to my lift kit threads here in the vendor forum. The cars in those threads all have my lift kits on them. The title of the thread states 2000-2004 Legacy, Baja, and Outback. Definately will fit your car. LIke I said, the 2" kit does not require any steering extension. Adding Outback struts will only give you 1 inch lift in these years.

It's the Cam, Crank, and Knock sensor wires near the throttle body. These are in a harness section that comes from the firewall near the middle, along with the O2 sensor wires, and the transistor connector. You have to take the whole dash out to get that section in from the the middle. Also, you can get all the plugs out of the big fuse block. The 4 relays, 2 fuses, and one of the main Fusible link blocks all pry out of the housing and come out as seperate plugs. Feed them (the connectors) all slowly one by one through the hole in the a-pillar, they will all fit, if you go one by one. If you plan on using the engine from this car, defintely just unplug the harness from engine at the three big plugs. If you are getting an EJ22 from any other year, but want to run it on these electronics, definately pull the intake and get the engine harness off it. Or just keep the whole intake. It will bolt onto any Phase I, EJ22. Also an EJ18 and some JDM EJ20.

Search for HighGuys lift threads in the vendor section. Or here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110940 We offer a 2", 4" and 6 inch kits for you're legacy. The 2" kit (shown here on this '03 LL Bean H6) is inexpensive, and very simple to install requiring no steering coupler extension. 4" and 6" kits require much more labor to install. i.e. the subframes all get unbolted and blocked down from the body. Check out these threads too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119795 3" lift on 95 Legacy Brighton near bottom http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117919&page=2

This car yes, we did an EJ22 swap, so all pump, lines, and rack are EJ (legacy) In another car I have joined EJ pump to EA82 lines at the pump. The long hardlines have to be shoved over into the airbox area(I've got a cone filter on the EJ22) IN yet another car, I used EJ lines from the pump, but mated them to the EA lines at the intermediate connector. this required a unbolting the EA lines from there clamp, and twisting the softlines a bit to get the right angle, but it all works, and is arguably a "cleaner" end result. nope, I believe we used a Legacy coupler, just fits. Another 5-10mm longer would be nice, but it works. Yup. Not too hard at all. Even after, still you need to unbolt the hardlines from their clamp and nudge them outward away from the rack mounts.

Oregon has no inspections. That's how it should be. Also, we don't salt roads like they were McDonalds fries, so our cars don't rust away to unsafe heaps.

The lower idler pulley is probably shot and seizing. Either that, or you've got something wedged in behind the oil pump pulley, the belt runs pretty close the block. Very slim chance on the cam seizing. Rule out the other stuff first.

2wd 5spd from an early impreza, or even from an older EA car using adapter. Using 23 spline axles and everything.

I'd take a functional(i.e. actually has dampening ability) non adjustable over a blown out adjustable any day. Any Original 85 or 86 strut is surely blown by now. Save yourself the work if your just selling it. Not worth keeping 26 year old struts. Get some GR-2s

You didn't find that the range of scale difference between EA and EJ TPS caused a problem? I do know that the SPFI and MPFI TPS scales are not the same either. But as for TCU, you are the man so if you say I believe. Physically the GL-10 4eat would be a direct bolt in. EJ 4eat would not without swapping bellhousings.

Rack is installed. Barely enough threads to make the toe work, but it does. As for fittings, the connection that is from the engine lines to the pump are the same. Also, the intermediate fittings at the crossmember (not at the actual rack/steering unit) are the same. Although joining the EJ to EA lines here makes for a funny bend, but it works. I'll try to update this with pics. Kinda forgot about it it worked so smooth:rolleyes:

I disagree with this reasoning. The total pinion shaft speed of a diff is a function of the average between the wheels each side. Throwing off the average of one diff (one odd size wheel) creates a small differance between the front and back diffs' repsective pinion speeds. Now this is a small difference, and it's absorbed by the center diff. This does however create a "slip" in the viscous center, which on a long drive will eventually be heated and try to lock. It won't be able to, you'll just cook it in the end. The viscous unit isn't designed for extended, constant slipping of the plates.

Those of us interested in using this for 4WD use in lifted rigs won't have the same clearance issues. We could do perhaps with a simpler, hopefully easier to produce setup. Would 2 or 3 inches make it easier?

Lifting the subaru there is no change in teh trailing arm mountings. The Whole subframe drops. The trainling arms are a fixed distance from eachother unless you start cutting and welding sections of the subframe.

That doesn't mean the bearing is bad. The stubs are inserted into the spiders. Idependant of the diff bearings. It means the clip holding the stub in is getting weak, and the hole bushing the spiders ride on is a bit worn. but not an issue really. the leaking is just seals. Thread out the retainer cup, and replace the seals. pretty easy. Stubs always wiggle a little. If the diff bearings were bad, the Ring and Pinion would be moving relative to eachother and causing all kinds of whine and grinding.

22mm socket, breaker bar and a big cheater pipe FTW:headbang:

An outback front subframe spacer blocks would drop the crossmember about 1-1/4". You will need a longer steering coupler if you do this. Possible that a Legacy one will work, it's slightly longer than the GL coupler. Also, that doesn't address the radius rods, although you could MAYBE get away without dropping them. It's gonna limit you're downtravel though. Best option is pony up for a full kit.

There are some real differences Forrester v. OUtback struts, springs, and tophats. Outback struts are 3/4 inch longer from bottom to spring perch. Putting Forrester struts alone on a Legacy will result in saggy rear end. You need Forrester tophats (taller) or just go with Outback struts. Best recipe is for even a bit more lift, 96-99 Outback struts, Outback springs. Forrester Tophats.

Even with just a 2" the axles are at a pretty severe angle. My buddy tried to make a 2 1/2" kit for his car, and the axles where riding against the Control Arm pivot on the crossmember, espescially when accelerating. (front lifts up) if you want more than 2 inches, space down the subframe an inch or two.

Okay.........so.......... You do or don't want to put a "4eat into a loyale" as the thread title and you posts do or don't suggest?

Just take the wiring loom off of the EJ25 manifold and swap it onto the EJ22 manifold. You will need to put the 2.5 throttle body onto the 2.2 intake (for the 2.5 TPS) ALL the other connectors (temp, IAC, Coil, etc..) will match right up to you're 2.2. You'll need to install the 2.5 Cam and Crank sensors onto the 2.2 Also bolt the 2.5 EGR solenoid and Purge solenoid (if equipped) to the 2.2 intake and plug them in. Done.

IF the vibration goes away when you put the car in Neutral or Park (no load) then the problem is in the axles. Yes, that's right. The front axles. There is a weird harmonic that developes, I believe because of the equal length axles. It only happens when the axles are taking the load of holding the car (brakes locked, trans still applying some drive force) It's not neccesarilly a "problem". But it means there is some where in the axles, (or they are cheap aftermarket axles). If the vibration really bothers you.....pony up $700 bucks for OE subaru axles. You could buy new cheaper ones from a parts store, but the vibration may still happens......aftermarket non subaru axles are a crapshoot.

I hear you. ABS is great for panic situations on pavement. But in snow, ice, or mud, the Subaru ABS is worthless. The tires lock too easily, and the ABS will not let you fully apply the brakes for that last 5mph or stopping required. It happens in snow, and also going downhill in mud when I go wheeling. Simple solution is too put a BLOWN fuse in the ABS fuse holder. That way it doesn't LOOK like you modified it in case of accident. If you inserted in some wires there with it, you could run them up though a fuse and swicth to enable disable the system. Turning it on and off while driving is not a problem and won't make the pump do anything. I personally have disabled my ABS entirely in favor of the ABF (Anti-lock Brake Foot)