Gloyale

He won't need to drill out the threads in his engine. SJR plate uses smaller bolts (5/16) that fit through the M10 threads in the block. Personally, I don't like using smaller than stock bolts to hold the engine to trans, but that's how some people make their plates. (SJR, and I think Rguyver's aluminum plates?)

You're gonna need to get a different console, shifter, and pedal box anyhow. If you get a S/R, get the S/R shifter with the pushbutton and the vacuum solenoids, and cable canister. If you get a D/R get the shifter with the extra lever. Either one, make sure you get the front section of the rear driveline (the part with the carrier bearing) from a manual car. 5spd shorter = driveshaft longer. Also, you will need a flywheel and a clutch set. Get the Longer Flywheel to crank bolts with the flywheel.

BEST option if you are keeping the S/R Loyale trans, would be to stuff the shafts and tailsection into an EJ trans case (EASY) . Then you can bolt the engine and trans directly toghether, no adapter plate. Then you are free to use an EJ flywheel and clutch. I recently did this in my S/R GL w/ EJ22 (ditched the EA clutch and adapter plate) The clutch action is much better. But that said, an XT6 or even just a good 4WD EA82 clutch will work fine.

Get an EJ engine and Harness from a 98 or later car to match it. Then it's no problem. Otherwise, I think it's physically a no go, at least not without a Bellhousing from an Early EA82 4eat (88-90 turbo or XT). Adapter palte would have to be -(neg) 1/2" lol. (or a spacer on the crank for the flexplate? IDK) And then you need the eletronics. You could use just the TCU, but it;ll be unhappy without a matching ECU to talk to......espescially a 98+(2nd gen) 4eat. Seriously though....If you want a 4eat in a Loyale, with more power, get a harness, engine, and trans from an auto 90-98 car and install all of it. Just leave all the TCU wires in with the ECU when you strip it. Oh, and don't forget the 4spd shift linkage.

HOw's t going man. We caravan to WCSS 12 toghether, I had the White 84 lifted Wheeler. I've got a car hauler trailer, old U-haul style down here in Corvallis. I'd be willing to lone it (pending sudden problem). Problem is, someone would have to come down to get it. Or at least Id have to get gas money ot bring it up there. Let me know, I;d love to help make the meet BIG.

PICS!

I'd check the sticker in the back, the car should already be a 3.9 Only turbo cars and a few early SPFI GL-10s had a 3.7 Automatic.

Good thought, but no. That hole is where it's supposed to be. The bearing has 3bolts to locate it on the face, and they are corect. Thhose holes are for a thin metal shield that acts as a oil scraper and director for proper lubrication of the D/R gears. The shield has 2 prongs on a flange that clip into that hole, and another on the other side. (not shown)

PT cruisers come with a few nice rim options that look dumb on the PT but somehow great on an older Subaru. Also, there where some pretty nice 16" alloys on 99-2004 ish Chevy Cavalier/ Pontiac Sunfire. There are many others too.

The fact that this statement isn't sarcastic. It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.

The manifold itself , throttle body, injectors and rails could all be used just by adding the 87 harness and sensors. I think one the top one is an Late 87 engine. Hotwire Maf, Optical disty, etc..... But with the one year only square plug at hte engine, and round plug for the disty (not in picture) Matthewboerner, I assume the above picture is your car's? Bassically you just need to match your existing electronics.

I've got an EJ18 in my Wheeler. Running a 235/75/15 and it's got plenty of guts. Mt theory is that for wheeling, I wanted the durability, better heat dispersment capacity, and smooth, high revving of the EJ18. They have roller cams so they will pull 5500 RPM all day in the sand or the mud happily. Also, we are already pushing trannies and axles and diffs to the max with these lifted rigs. So I feel like the EJ18 is a compramise between "just enough" power and to "way too much" is better. Now my non-lifted, 89 GL has a 96 EJ22 with a S/R pushbutton 4wd 5spd. That's for street and has ssomewhat smaller tires. (205/70/15) I totally agree. 2WD XT + EJ18 equals = :grin:MPG FTW

I'm running a EJ22 in mine with a pushbutton 4wd trans from a Loyale. No lift, but it's got 205-70-15 tires. It has plenty of low end power for the street. Personally, I think your wife would be entire;y happy with just a EJ22 and the S/R 3.9 5spd. No need for a D/R if you aren't wheelin. The 3.7 w/ difflock trans would be a good option because it will bolt directly in. With the 4.11 legacy trans you would need custom driveline, fabbed crossmembers and the 25 spline axles from a turbo car. hmmm...... if it were me: EJ22 Open up (split) the S/R and the Legacy trans. Swap the S/R guts into the Legacy case. Now you don't need an adapter plate, or 25 spline stubs. And you can use an EJ clutch.

Nah.... it's different. It dries to an almost rubber texture. I swear if you could lay a perfectly round bead of it, you could make O-rings from it. Dries much quicker than RTV. Also, it's easier to remove if you have to disassemble later.

I am a convert to "The Right Stuff" gasket maker. It really is the best stuff. Works for Cam carriers, EJ oil pumps, Baffle plates....anything. It also makes a pretty good removable threadlocker too! If you buy it in the tubes for a caulk gun it's not too expensive....lasts a long time. Best of all, if you just leave a small dab hanging out of the tip to dry, you can just pull it out and the dry end plug will come right out. (unlike RTV which ussually requires some digging and messing around to clear out the nozzle for each use. My .02

This is a transfer clutch issue in the transmission. not a bad rear diff. Search "torque bind"

If the hiss is momentary it's fine. Just the vacuum in the controls system bleeding off when you turn it off, or sometimes when changing controls from Vent to Defrost to Heat etc.... If you hear a constant, continual hiss, one of the lines is loose. Look at the junction Miles describes.

I believe clockwise when viewed looking at the input on the diff. the ring gear is on the drivers side (left) of the diff, so to drive the axles forward it should be clockwise.

I've got a set of N/A EJ20 pistons from a JDM motor that was in a Legacy I scrapped. I'd like to build up the EJ20 with some turbo pistons, so I could part with the N/A ones. One thing though, one of the 4 pistons has some scraping along the thrust side....not too bad though. Let me know what they'd be worth to ya.....I'd GLADLY trade for some turbo pistons:grin:

Uh.......not from the looks of those pics. The very first little bump will stuff those tires against the arch and act like a brake. You would do better to go down to like a 205-70-15.

Micheal you know I'm in. Gotta give me more than a few days notice though. My car is running great and I'm ready to do some trails.

On a first Gen Outback (95-99)you don't want more than 1" extra over stock= 4 inch top blocks/ 3 inch subframe blocks. Our HighGuys lift drops everything the same. Remove the OE spacers if you want the extra clearance underneath. On a Second Gen Outback, the sit alot lower in stance from the factory. I feel 2 inches over stock is doable. So 4" tops/ 2" subframe. This is how Highguys 3rd gen kit is.

A note to all those interested in HighGuys kits. We have a passion for lifting Subarus. But however much we love it and dedicate to it, this is not our daily work. It is a side project to help fellow enthusiasts. We have family's and job's and the lift making must come in between those times. Due to our small batch manufacturing, and the part time nature of this venture, we ask that you allow 2-4 weeks for shipping when ordering a HighGuys kit.

$700 + 35 shipping.

The hole is there on all EA82s. Usually tapped, but if not, that's easy. The ACTUAL difference in the blocks is the large PVC port on the case. It really isn't a big deal Just hook up PCV like an SPFI would be. But if you really WANT to swap pistons that's fairly easy, without splitting the case. Don't up boost with this setup......the NA piston tops are much thinner than the Turbo ones.