Gloyale

Same connectors and pins. Howeverm, there are a few features used/ not used depending on whether it's an 1800 or 2200 CC. Noted on the pinout charts.

In the video: That axle is on the worng way. The C/V is supposed to be at the outer end, the DOJ against the diff. To make Double DOJ axles for EA82: You need a set of shafts from a 85 or 86 model. These are double DOJ's from the factory. However the cups on them are shallow. Using DOJ's from later models will get you more "stretch". The deeper cup you can use are from later EA82 (87-94). For even more depth, early Legacy (90-94) rear axle inner DOJ's are even better. **these joints can also replace EA82 non-turbo inner DOJ's**

FYI: The adapter plate should be 1/2"........(12~13mm) not 1/4"

Test for 12v on the yellow/red wire to the injectors. Pin 1 on the square 16 pin grey engine connector. (92-94 lego harness) Sometimes the wire for them get's cut in the harness strip. it should be hooked to the Yellow/Red wire from the main IG relay.

No. He means that if you get the harness off a 95+ intake and swap it to your 92 intake it will work. Also, you could mate the 92 wiring to the 95+ harness by cutting off the connectors and mating the harness directly or through another set of matching connectors. You'd just need proper diagrhams and a soldering iron. I will tell you now though, when you are looking for wiring info for the 95, it is a 1 year only setup. 96+ ECUs use the same connector, but the pin arrangment and wire colors are unique to 95.

swapping rear diffs is easy. That shouldn't stop you. But you will need to get some standard axles. Your turbo axles will have 25 spline inners.....you need the 23 spline. The 4spd from an 82 would not be worth the effort.

Without an angle in them they certainly have affected camber some. Maybe not a big amount. But simply lengthening the strut definately will create more positive camber * \---/ * And you put these on in addition to Forrester struts? So you're running 3 1/2" to 4" more than stock. That can't be good for your axles.

That'd be a nice trans to put a EJ22 infront of.

The Boxster is already set up for a Flat, Longitudally mounted engine. The Pontiac uses a Transverse layout like most FWD cars, just set into the rear. You definately couldn't use the pontiac trans. Youd end up needing a Porsche or VW trans or a reverse cut gear set for a Subaru trans to turn it around. Seems like WAAAAY too much work for me. Now an old porsche 914 or a Karman Ghia:grin:

Yes it works....this is what I have on the rear of my EA81 Has to be Legacy rear axle inner joint DOJs so they will be 23 spline. Also, EA82 front axle DOJ and rear inners DOJ will also work for the same, although they aren't quite as deep as the Legacy ones.

correct. But any recent codes will be stored in the memory. Make sure you use the Black connectors. You need to run the engine over 2000 rpms for about 30 seconds then the codes should output. If the light comes on steady during this process there are no codes. You may not have gotten codes if you used the greens. That is a current time diagnostic mode, and wil on;y display "active" codes. Not so great for tracking down random light on/off. Using both conenctors at the same time, and again running the enigne over 2000 rpms for 30 seconds will clear all codes, unless there is an "active" problem.

The sticker is $40. Fixing the windshield is $200+ The only reason cars fall apart so bad in inspection states in the first place is the salt and the rust. Which is also caused by state government. A cracked windshield being "dangerous" is BS. Salted roads are intentional sabotage. They just want to make people pump money into the economy.

This is the standard line of BS they always spew. HELLO!!!! the windshield is double layer laminated over a sheet of high strentgh plastic. In any serious accident the glass shatters immediately, and the plastic is what keeps people in and glass from impalling people. The crack isn't going to make that plastic any less safe. The ONLY thing unsafe about that is the view obstruction, which if you are short really isn't in the view. I don't know how tall the driver is. But we don't make the laws, it's a bum deal.....but your gonna have to fix it though. Soooooo Glad Oregon dosen't have inspections. They are just money maker regulations to force you to spend more on a vehicle, or buy a new one (gee, why would a steel producing state want to force people to buy more cars?)

This thread is about EA82 EJ and EA82 PS lines will bolt directly toghether. I get it that everyone wants to put power steering in there old EA81 But that isn't what I started this thread about and frankly it's just making the whole thread confusing. I'd like this to be an addition to the USRM. However if it get's cluster farked by arguements, it's useless. No offense to anyone, but please look at the title, and try to keep the conversation directly related to that. I'll try to follow my own advise:grin:

EJ lines will join directly to EA lines at the passenger side cross member. Why would you need to have custom lines?

Speaking to me or yourself? There is an answer. Running an open diff does not produce excess strain on the stubs and axles. Running a welded on the pavement DOES produce excess strain on the stubs and diffs. Pretty clear cut answer.

Unless you are mounting 33" or bigger tires (which is too big for a subie) , an 8 inch wide rim is gonna be too wide. 10" would be ridiculous. And the offset is so deep that they will stick WAAAAY out of the fenders, rubs hard on turns, and have TERRIBLE bump steer. you need a 15 x 6" or 7" at the max. These wheels are really the most ideal:

Just cut the studs off. The Non-turbo pipe will bolt to the other unused holes. For intake, IDK....post pics and we can tell you. Does the car have any guts? I would think it would be gutless with 7.7:1 compression and no turbo. Perhaps he put NA pistons in it?

Yes, And I was not talking about that build. I was talking about a specific trip where a guy with a welded diff who had just driven the car 700 miles on the freeway broke both his stubs. I refferenced the other hyperextended axle to point out that NOBODY else had breakage issues except the guy with the welded diff that ran on the highway all the time. Break your diff stubs if you want.

Just hook it up. 17mm wrench. Tricky part is getting the tab to fit into the slot. Once you get that, the outer hub will seat a to the threads and you can screw it in.

Yes, I know. It was the guy who had the both his stubs break that had the welded. The one who overextended an axle was I think an LSD, definately not welded. His overextension was compression, since you move the arms so far from bumpstops after a lift. Extend your bumpstops:grin: Limiting straps would not help unless they where uptravel limiters. (not sure how you'd do that)

Even easier..... Just bolt the 2.5 throttle body and all the 2.5 sensors, and intake wiring onto the 2.2 intake manifold. All you're wiring and sensors from the 2.5 stay, just mated onto a 2.2 intake. Injectors, evap solenoid, etc. all stay.

Any Automatic equiped Subaru will have a "T" fitting of the size you need attached to the lines under the master cylinder (2 brake circuits, 4 brake lines.....they gotta split somewhere) Scavenge one from an automatic car at the junnkyard. Subaru has continued to use the hillholder even on current models. the on;y reason they ever dropped it was for cost savings. Eliminating a feature that no other cars have and most people aren't aware of and won't miss seemed to be a good idea for saving production costs. Except with Subaru's die hard base, the feature was missed, so Subaru brought it back. I believe it's electronically activated now though. As far as "tricky to adjust"......they aren't......it's a friggin cable that you set to be almost tight when the clutch is out. Adjusting them one way or the other doesn't affect leakage. the only reason pulling hte cable worked to stop a leak for some, is that the rotation of the shaft aggravates the leak......not cable= no rotation= appears to not leak. They are only 200 bucks new. Probably less than $30 from a wrecker.... I've only seen a few leaky ones out of hundreds. Used from wrecker FTW.

Yeah, finding a good, not leaking EA82 power rack is getting harder.....finding an EA81 PS rack.........almost impossible. I'd pretty much have to go up to one of the Subaru on;y yards up north and spend some coin. ON the other hand, I have several EJ racks and if they work in EA cars I will be doing this swap to 2 other vehichles. We will not be 5-lug swapping the GL, just adding power. Hoping to use the EA82 tierods, they are shorter than the Legacy ones. The Legacy rack, with inner tierods attached, is only about 1/2 inch longer than the EA. I'm hoping there will be enough adjustment to toe it in properly. If not, thread down the shaft a bit more with a die, and trim the ends?

I personally feel all that extra stress on the stubs and axles driving around town makes them more likely to break on the trail. At WCSS 11, there was a sweet, highly customized, beefed up hatch. He drove up from California with a welded diff......broke BOTH stubs on the rear diff when he hit the trail (EA81 car, EA81 engine). Coincidence? maybe........but I feel there is a connection. He was the only one to break stubs that day........one other hatch lost an axle to hyper extension(different problem). I have personally had an axle grenade pulling into a driveway when I used to run the welded all the time. I had only been running that welded diff about 3-4 weeks when that happened. It isn't a matter of "will work" or "won't work", but rather of "is it a good idea and does it have some effect" No it isn't, and yes in the long term it does. I think it's pretty easy to see how the extra strain could shorten the life of the stubs and axles. Run open or LSD, or pull an axle for the street. That's my $.02