Gloyale

The EJ pitch stopper bracket will bolt right onto the EA trans. Speedo cable should be a direct fit. The hole in the side of the trans will accept either a cable, or a sensor....not sure which you're 95 Imp has, but it should be a direct fit for either.

This swap is for a Loyale w/ Single range 5spd. If you get a whole legacy or imp donor car, w/ manual trans, you DON"T NEED AN ADAPTER PLATE OR REDRILLED FLYWHEEL. pull the EA S/R trans, and the EJ trans. Split the cases. Put the EA shafts and front diff into the EJ case halves. Bolt the S/R tailsection onto the back. Install in the car ussing EJ flywheel, and EJ clutch. No adapter, no redrilled flywheel. No rewiring or axle or driveline issues as everything stays the same except the bellhousing mating. *note* this will not work with D/R trans because of the the differences in the input shaft between D/R and the S/R 4wd or AWD boxes* duh>>>>Car is an automatic, 3at. Oops........well the S/R to EJ box swap works.....just not applicable here. oops

Thanks for the pics. Nice work. It looks like you had to bend the lines over a bit where they come up through. We were lookin at it and thinking we'd have to do that. As for angle, that should be fine. Figured we'd have to make a new coupler anyhow. Unless we get real lucky and the Legacy coupler is the right length. Gotta get it installed first.

Low switch is on the top, rear of the trans. 4wd switch is mounted to the 4wd lever pivot.

So......title says it all. We are doing an EJ22 swap into an 85 GL 4wd. The GL came originally with manual steering. In order to take advantage of the EJ PS pump, and better handle the power, we are going to upgrade the car to PS. Trick is, we don't have an EA82 rack, we only have the EJ rack from our donor swap car. We are going to cut a hole in the EA crossmember for the lines, and play with tierod combos to get it right. Going over there now to cut the crossmember, and take some measurements and pics. Hoping it all goes smooth.....as I have 2 other cars with leaky worn out EA racks, that I'd like to replace with easier to find, cheap, EJ racks. Anyone that has any experience with this type of EJ to EA rack swap PLEASE chime in. Pics to come.

The connectors on the harness are different on digidash (GL-10)cars.... you can't just swap the bulkhead wiring.....it doesn't plug into the rest of the car. Totally different connectors. Now if you got a harness from an 88 or 89 regular GL turbo (not GL-10 or digidash) then you could do a complete harness swap. That said.....it's not worth it. EJ22 swap would be SO much better. Heck, with a loyale, with S/R trans, you could split the case, and put the guts in an EJ trans case and not even need an adapter plate.

If you're gonna be using a 240 welder you will want a 50 Amp breaker. 6 Gauge wire

VSS connector is 2 pin, 2 wire. If you are swapping on a car that already used the VSS, you just need to tap the signal wire. In cars where the VSS was not originally used, and you are tapping into the unused connector, you need to supply the black wire with a ground, and the other (IIRC Yellow/red) get's the VSS wire to the new ECU. For EA81 cars, the VSS connector pigtails right off the back of the dash. For EA82 cars, way, way, up in the drivers side corner of the dash, burried in a cluster, in a 2 wire connector, black, "T" shaped with Y/r and Black wires. It's there for adding cruise to carbed cars. Otherwise on EA82's you can access the wires at the back of the dash, but there you have to cut and splice.

Unwrap the large white wire coming off the Alternator. foolow it back to where it goes to the fusible link box. Look for any signs that it's gotten hot or melted. If it's damaged, replace that wire. Just needs to be a heavy gauge wire from the alt to the Fusible link block. If that wire looks good, then I would suggest that the alt is bad......bad diodes. Are you getting any warning lights on while drivng? (Charge, Brake, Stop, etc.)

No lift, Lot's of trimming 205/70/15 tires on redrilled narrow offset toyota wheels. 6" lift, 265/70/16 They are bit too big for anything but the sand dunes.....I went back down to a 235/75/15 for better gearing offroad.

Don't add the body spacers. Espescially if you don't also swap the rear pivot for the Control arms. You will be LOSING ground clearance. And like I said, the Outback control arm mounts are *taller* to match the spacer, so if you add the spacer but don't change mounts the Control arm will be at an angle. Really you don't need any of the subframe stuff......except possibly the rear trailing arm brackets are good to swap. Drops the pivot, gives you a bit more down travel, and moves the wheel back int the well slightly. Otherwise don't waste time with the subframe blocks.

There is no "adjustment" of EA82 valves. What would you adjust? There is no screw, no place to shim. All Hydraulic. Period. I'm betting the oil pump is trashed. Probably already was, and that's why you had dislodged rocker. No pressure = HLA collapse = looseness in valvetrain = bye bye rocker. Might get by with a new oil pump if the block isn't too badly scored.

Once you've done it a few times, it's not that hard. I recently needed an adapter plate for a friends swap. I don't have any on hand right now......except the one in my 89 GL w/ single range 5spd. SO.....we pulled the trans, split it, stuffed the guts into the case halves from a Legacy, and put it all back toghether. Pulling and reinstalling the the trans was the hard part. Splitting the cases, and swapping parts and bolting them up took about 2-3 hours. It could be even quicker if you are JUST swapping stubs. It may not be worth it for an Imp, being as they are pretty light. But to put an old D/R into a Legacy/Outback/Forrester, I would want to keep those cars axles and make the trans 25 spline to fit.

Did you make sure to provide a ground to the VSS as well as connecting you're signal wire to it? You have to ground the VSS or it will not make it's pulses.

I've done 2 EJ swaps into 4spd cars. Both of them the 4spd died within a year. (one horribly blown up front diff) Get a 5spd. It's REALLY not worth all the effort to swap in a 4spd. Espescially if you only go with the 200 MM clutch, you will be slipping clutch all the time. Trust us. Get a 5spd D/R

Yup. Pretty sure that it works for Legacy/Imp/Forrester. But 2wd Imp axles are pretty weak compared to the newer Outback and Forrester axles. For a heavy Outback or Forrester, or really any EJ chassis, it'd be better to put 25 spline stubs into the EA trans/front diff.

In my experience they will take a bit of learning and drivngi before idleing right. But that said, get o2 hooked up, check all you're codes. Did you hook up the Nuetral switch? It's a 91 Loyale so you should have one on the trans to connect to. Although, it is somewhat easier to tap into it at the original SPFI ECU connector. You may just need to take it through a few drive cycles.

Not quite correct this is Subaru gear ratios. 38 ring w/11 tooth pinion = 3.454 37 ring w/10 tooth pinion = 3.7 39 ring w/10 tooth pinion = 3.9 37 ring w/ 9 tooth pinion = 4.11 40 ring w/ 9 tooth pinion = 4.44 So you see, a 37 ring could be either a 3.7 or a 4.11. Youd have to count pinion teeth too. IN this case, the trans is almost certainly not 4.11 (not offered in any EA) so if it's 37, it'd be a 3.7, if it's 39....it's a 3.9

Uck....really? Take those beautiful rims and paint them black so they look like cheap Les Shchwab stealies from anything more than 10 feet away? Black rims make a car look dirty. Just my opinion. You have a knack for making nice cars when it's all said an done so please don't listen to me.....but black? Uck......

Okay. What rear diff ratio is in it? Easy test is go to a parking lot. Put car is 4wd and drive straight. If you can drive straight, basically at all without hoping and chirping of tires, your ratios match. It's harder to tell with the automatics because it's a hydraulic connection, but the manuals are all gears and will bind within feet of driving with the wrong ratio diffs. My guess is that if Moosens did the install, he probably got it right. If you're 4wd works without binding you have correct diffs.

Yup, external Headgasket leaks are somewhat common. I'd say at least 1/2 of the NA EA82 headgaskets I do are for external leaks. Good news is that it's fairly easy to fix. Sucks you just had it all apart though.

Just open up the choke housing (might have to drill out hte rivets, replace with screws) Bend a new hook onto the end of the spring. You'll have to reclock the housing when you reinstall it. (knock off the small tab on the inner ring of the housing, or you can't rotate it)

FWIW, an EJ swap would be a simple project compared to the crazy fabrication you are proposing. IMO, a 4 or 6 inch lifted GL with stock axles, trans.....and an EJ......is a VERY capable rig........for pretty minimal work. Don't let me discourage you from wicked awesomeness......but you can do ALOT with stock drivetrain and a bit more HP.

Your choke spring is broken