Gloyale

I don't think you're in any danger of ripping off the hitch. I've pulled alot of subies out of alot of places, and never ripped a proper tow hitch off. Think about it. If the hitch weren't there, you'd be hooking to the tow loops in the rear. That means all the weight of the car, on one hook. Now, think bout the hitch. The hitch is bolted to BOTH of the hooks, as well as into the bumper/body at 2 points. So 4 good solid connection points spread load around the whole rear of the body. That is a way stronger setup than pulling from a single hook. FWIW, I have seen the single hooks rip out of the body.....only on rusty rigs though.

I'm wating for Bill Hinchers' Custom Bellhousing for the Toyota trans. Then my combo would be this. Subie engine (EG33?) Toyota trans and transfer case. Not sure I'd go to solid axles, but if I did it would be Yota's I might just use a 4.11 subie diff up front, and a welded Nissan front diff stuck in the back, with the Nissan locking hubs on rear. (Props to SJR for the idea)

No. The AWD pinion shaft won't mate to the Part Time guts. Best you could do is use a 5mt D/R from an EA with an adapter plate. 3.9 only though (at least here, Europe could be different)

Bingo. I actually use an 3" "end cap" piece as my installer. Perfect size, and it has a nice big flat spot in the middle to whack with the rubber mallet.

The 1.59 gearset will swap right in. Requires alot of disassembly of the upper shaft though. Hope you got a press.

Pin 50 Grounded for MT Ungrounded for AT.

Is this on a first gen Brat? If so I get why you need the offset.....the ends of the torsion tubes. Yeah....uh.....IDK, I'd just start shopping around. I ussually agree with others here that a narrower offset is better (easier on bearings, no bump steer, violation of fender laws) but in your case you gotta do what you gotta do. I've seen a few people make spacers for just the rear of first gen brats.

Try connecting just the White connectors. This will output any stored codes (as oppossed to the green "d-check" which runs a diagnostic, and gives you "active" codes) Same thing.......white connectors, start, drive over 1 mph (IDK where the hell CHiltons gets 7......that is not in the FSM anywhere), you mayu also need to keep the PRMS over 2000 for 30-40 seconds (that is in the FSM) If there is a code, the CEL will come on steady. The ECU will start blinking codes if any are stored. If there are no codes, the ECU will blink steady, and the ECU light will flash a steady 5 or 6 blinks or something (there is a ID codes to these blinks as well, different for different models, AT, MT, SPFI, MPFI, CAL, 49st, etc....)

Next time it does it, just unplug the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) Under the manifold, passenger side, on the crossover pipe......2 wire connector. Unplugging it will default the car to rich starting and it should fire right up. IF it does, you definately got a Faulty CTS.

Battery and/or Connections.

Yes, black box with 3 wires, on the same bracket with the solenoid with 2 wires. Connected to the engine with a small vac line with a weird little filter in it.

Hey Greg, get ahold of me and I can give you some specs to make an easy 1-2" lift all on the struts. It's easy to make yourself, and gives you a bit more clearance at the diffs. Or we could fit ya with a full HighGuys 4" or 6" in kit:lol: Looking good though. I like the bumper.....too bad you lose the lights though. Move em up top!

Big no-no. the bolts should be lubed with clean motor oil on the theads, and btween the washer and the bolt head. To the OP... If the top of the block was wet, and even if it wasn't, make sure you replace the O-rings on the coolant crossover tube. These are often overlooked because you don't have to pull that crossover to get heads off....but you will want to repalce those o-rings. You can get them from the dealer for 5 bucks a piece..........OR..............Go to a parts store, and find a pack 4 or 5 of 1-9/16" x 1/8" O-rings for a buck.

It happens pretty commonly on the EA82 optical disty. At least once or twice a year someone posts about it.........perhaps less now as more people are aware of the problem......and less people have EA82s:lol:

An unmetered air leak could make for a hard start, but I would think it would sputter at least a little.

HEre's a review of the FSM disty installation guide. Set the Crank so that the TDC 0 mark (not the 3 timing belt marks, but the actual TDC 0) is aligned with the bellhousing mark. Now look at your cam sprockets. the dots should be at a 45 degree slant, opposite eachother. If they are pointed "in" at eachother rotate the engine another 360, until the dots are pointed 45 degrees "out" Once you have that, then pull the disty. Aling the dot on the disty gear with the notch on the disty housing. Install the disty. This should get you right on.

Yeah, you are wrong. All EJ, EG, and EZ series engines have compatible bellhousings and mount placement. Turbo enigne in non turbo car = Modify crossmember(cut a big notch), or replace with Turbo Crossmember.

Like I said, check the operation of the coolant flow valve. It also controls the blend door via linkage so a problem with either will be evident there at the valve. It's right above the drivers right foot area, next to gas pedal.

Manual trans: 4spd and FWD EA 5spd input shafts, not sure of the spline count, but Small. All other 5spds use the larger input shared with the EJs Manual trans Outputs: EA71 FWD transmission shaft has 23 splines EA71 4WD transmission shaft has 23 splines EA81 FWD transmission shaft has 23 splines EA81 4WD transmission shaft has 23splines EA82 FWD Transmission shaft has 23 splines EA82 4WD S/R transmission shaft has 23 splines EA82 4WD D/R transmission shaft has 23 splines EA82T 4WD S/R transmission shaft has 25 splines EA82T 4WD D/R transmission shaft has 25 splines EA82T AWD D/R transmission shaft has 25 splines ER27 FWD Transmission shaft has 25 splines ER27 AWD transmissiont shaft has 25 splines EJ FWD transmission shaft has 23 splines EJ AWD transmission shaft has 25 splines Automatic outputs All 3spds 23 spline All 4EAT 25 spline

replace the Coolant Temp Sensor. it's giving false data.....to enough to throw a code. Confirm by unhooking the CTS and testing resitance both cold and then hot. (it should start quickly with the CTS disconnected.) It should have 2-3k ohms cold, dropping to around 500-ish when warmed up.

Trick it to think it's in Park, not neutral. It keeps the idle high in neutral, espescially during and after coasting cause it thinks you are "between" shifts. So it keeps the idle up a hair for better synchro action. unhook the wire you grounded for Nuetral, and ground the one for Park instead. Either that, or better yet, cut the AT id wire so the ECU thinks it a Manual, and then hook up the Neutral switch in the trans. In this case do not ground either neut. or Park. I don't think the TPS code is related.....check/fix the TPS adjustment first before messing more with Idle.

There should be 2 plates if it is a 4wd car. That would make for ideal access for the nut on a stick manuver.

Sensor compares Atmospheric pressure with intake pressure. Switching solenoid switches the port on the sensor between Intake vac and Atmosphere. It's basically a MAP added to the MAF system.

If you are talking about the rabbit based pickups from the 80's it would be very hard. The rabbit platform no real trans tunnel and no type of rear wheel drive. Not to mention you'd have to turn the whole drivline around and fit a flat motor where nad uprigth went. It would be better to use a Justy drivetrain to convert one of them:lol: The way to go and without an adapter would be to use a VW trans would be to find a Quantam Synchro(staition wagon, fake subaru) , or maybe an Audi Quattro trans mated to the TDI. No adapter needed, just some custom CV's and a rear driveline to put the TDI in a Brat. Otherwise it's fabricate the adaption to subaru trans.

Perfect example