Gloyale

It's not much at the rod itself. Each notch is about a centimeter of travel of the rod. The rotation at the hi/lo arm, driven by the rod, above the front diff is only a few degrees. * note* If the hi/lo arm is allowed to rotate too far while unhooked or adjusting you can loose the alignment keys for the shift collar inside, so don't do that. You can rotate it "back" and it will stop against a case bolt, but don't rotate it too far forward.

3.9 vs. 3.7 23 spline vs. 25 spline front stubs Obviously part time vs. Fulltime

There is no PCV solenoid. PCV is crank vent which is continuous. There is an Evap solenoid. Controls collection burn off of evaporated gas from the fuel system. There should be 3 tubes basically right above the thermostat housing that those connect to. 3 different sizes to match the 3 hoses you mentioned. If you don't have those 3 tubes, then you lost some of your manifold pieces while you had it apart. You don't need to dismantle any of the intake to remove it, but if you had it appart for cleaning, or injector replacement then...... As stated, the forth, a large one, on the "left" side of the row when viewed with the tubes on the canister facing towards engine, goes to the small port on the intake boot.

Yeah, looked again. You definately have the accesories vacuum hooked to the Evap solenoid port. When the Evap solenoid opens you have a vacuum leak since you don't have a canister connected. Additionally, you're vent is capped so your tank has no vent. You should get an EJ canister and mount it in there, and route the accessories vacuum direct to intake vacuum. Details, but things that you should fix.

This isn't really true. Outback struts are longer, and have more room from Knuckle to spring perch. Largest you can go on Legacy struts is about 225/55/16 or 225/60/15 You can fit a 235/75/15 or 235/65/16 tire on Outback struts.

that's the problem, the rotor DOES still spin, just not in time. When the rotor sits on the shaft, it will spin round willy nilly inside there and throw random sparks to all cylinders, Nowhere near in time, but sparks to all cylinders none the less. In my early Subaru days I had a EA82t that drove me nuts because I used that logic to rule out the rotor screw. It would spark, and even occasionally catch and fire momentarily, all very randomly. After a month (literally) of cutting open the harness to track wiring, replacing lots of parts, buying a new ECU, etc....... When I checked the rotor.....DOH! that was it. Pull the cap and check the rotor.

Check the lines in and out of the heater core when the engines warm. Both lines should be hot. If the hoses are both warm, move the interior, and check the brass that is exposed by the gas pedal. verify that it's warm. Check the operation of the core valve. Find the vavle, and it's cable driven lever, then move the temp selector and watch that it's moving the valve. If the valve isn't moving properly when you turn the temp selector, that is the problem. Most likely the outer housing of the cable has come unclipped and the housing is sliding instead of the cable inside. To fix: remove the temp and blower speed knobs, undo the thin nut around each ones shaft. Remove radio/Ashtray console Remove 2 screws at the bottom of heater controls console. Remove heater console face. Now you can see the cable attaching to the back side of the temp selector. Use a 90 degree screwdriver, and some patience to reinsert the cable under the clip, and tighten it in place. .......If the cable was not the problem, and the valve was open, but little to no heat, then it may just be a clogged core......flush out with a garden hose, both ways til it runs clear.

Verify timing of both belts first thing. Also check that the rotor screw has not come loose.

That would affect kickdown, not shift up. His problem is most likely the governor gear is striped. Canister looking thing on the passenger side. Needs remvoed and inspected, likelty replaced. Good news is that a replacement can be had from any 2wd or 4wd 3SPD auto trans.

For EA82 cars... The bracket from a Manual trans Legacy, Outback or Impreza (probablyy Forester too) will bolt right onto a EA 5sdp. Then you can use any pitch stopper cut and sleeved to length. For EA81 cars... If you swap to a 5sdp, you can use the bracket too. Altough witht he EA81 body the body mount is off center, so the rod will either need bent, or the mount can be modified.

It's bolt in. Nothing in the B pillar changed for the second gen legos. edit* duh, yeah some mods to the plastic in needed.

No. Not with an Automatic. The transfer hub/clutch assembly would still be turning, dragging the plates inside past eachother with no ATF circulating in the system. Do not dolly tow Automatic subaru's Manauls it's technically O.K., but if the 4wd shift lever should slip even a little.......BAM! and the whole rig tries to drive off the dolly.

Yeah,the red ones you can find easy. They are on all 92+ 2.2s and I believeall the Phase I 2.5s

Nah....all the legacies from 90-94 were auto seatbelts. He needs belts from a 95-99 Legacy. He'll need the buckles too because they are different in the new ones. Old ones will need to be cut off of the seat frame.......Or upgrade the seats as well:grin:.

I've looked into it before. ANd I think it could be done. It would require a very thick adapter plate and a specially prepared Flywheel. Either need to machine an EA82 flywheel to fit the VW engine, or use a VW flywheel, and modify it to accept the Subaru PP.(starter engagement may still be an issue with the later) I can get anyone who want to make the adapter a dead VW engine block to use as a template. Any takers?

03+ Outbacks

None of this is neccesary. You can swap the whole intake (or just the rails) from 92-94. With those fuel rails, you can use any red top injector from a 2.2 or a 2.5 up to 99(phase I) This is what I recommend to people with 90-91s that begin having repeat injector problems. They all flow the same, and have the same resistance. There is some variation in the nozzle design, but it makes no real difference in rnning.

I ran my EJ swaps for a long time with no pitch stopper. No problems other than it puts alot of stress on the motor mounts (tore a few) Installed them cause I got sick of changing motor mounts. I don't see how not having a pitch stopped alone would cause all the issues you describe. Something else was going on as well.

Definately metric. 8mm? Best bet would be to take the hill holder out, and take it in to the store with you to match threads. FInd a piece of line that threads into the HH. Then use that line to find a T that fits those threads.

I don't think it works. The radiator hose outlet hits the bellhousing. I know it does for EJ coolant crossovers and I'm pretty sure it's the same way on an EA82.

It's pretty easy to just pop an axle in one side. Jack up the rear, (helps to have Hi-lift and good bumper) slide the axle onto the stubs and drive the pins, then drop her down. Depending on the model and lift, you may need to unbolt the lower strut bolt to let the wheel drop a bit more. I never need to on mine but I've seen others that do. It depends on the drop of rear diff relative to the subframe. Either way, to me it seems easier than making a shear axle. Plus with how often axles break, you would want to be able to replace it easily. Another Idea. Leave the diff open. Bolt in a Welded diff if and when the car get's taken to Walker (or other) Swapping the whole diff car be done very quickly. 7 bolts.

Brushes in the fan are dead. Need a new fan, or at least rebrush that one. The back cover on the fan motor comes off easily to reveal the brushes in slip ring. You need a new resistor block to make all fan speeds work again. Clock is supposed to dim when headlights are on (doesn't need to be as bright to be seen in the dark). I'm guessin the alt is/was fine?

Car certaily HAD a 2.5 in it originally, but it looks like that motor is too narrow to be a 2.5. And the Power Steering lines don't match the mounts on the manifold. Must have been swapped at some point.

PIgtail off of your new wire near the starter. PUt a Male spade on the wire, and hook the original starter wire to that. This will backfeed the circuit with the 12V it expects to see when starter is engaged. Without this you may have hard starting in cold weather. The ECU wants to know when the starter is running, so it can give a rich fuel mixture for starting.

It's the input shaft. The D/R have a 2 piece input shaft. Hi range is when the shafts are locked toghether end to end by a collar, and acts as if it was one piece (directly driven) Lo range shafts are seperated, Input power goes through a set of reduction gears and drives the rest of shaft at a reduced speed. It really all comes down to the very small shift collar that locks the shaft in high range. That collar breaks, or the teeth it engages strip (seen it) and the car goes nowhere. The S/R boxes use the same one piece input shaft as the early AWD EJ boxes. I have a S/R pushbutton in my 89 GL, with a 96 EJ22 in front of it. Not WRX power, but still gets up QUICK. I love the S/R. Quick engagement without having to move my hand off the shifter. And the lack of a D/R lever means there is lots of room for my dual ebrake handles...... With EJ power, locked 4wd, and dual E-brakes, The car is good enough for any of the light Offroading I would do with it. (It's only got 205/70/15 tires and no lift) It's really more of my Daily Driver and Road Trip car, not a wheeler (6" lifted, EJ'd 84 wagon for that) And the most awesome reason to use a S/R..........you can put the guts into an EJ case halves (S/R tailsection) and bolt it to the EJ without an adapter. This allows the use of a Full EJ clutch set and you get true 4wd. And best possible gas milage. Only time I would like to have AWD is when I tow a trailer. The front wheel spin and lifting of the nose get bad when towing. AWD would make that nicer.