Gloyale

only if it's an 85 or 86. 87 carb block just like SPFI, and has the same cams. If it IS a 85/86 block, probably want to keep the SPFI Cams from the old heads. EGR is the same it's the Carbie heads ASV pipes that need blocked. easy to make a plate, or just screw a Quarter into pipe where it connects tot eh reed valve blocks.

nope packing grease you got lucky

this. there is a 2 pin socket in appropriate diameter available at most auto stores. I think it is a Ford tool. But it's hte same diameter, and has 2 notches directly across from eachother. It's enough to work. Don't need all 4 notches.

TPS is the only shared signal. However, the EJ tps is way dfferent range than the ER......IDK if it will really work well. I am in the process of doing an EJ swap to an Auto XT6 However, I'm using a 2.5 SOHC and a 4.44 4eat and all the wiring harness from the same 2001 Outback. I'm gonna pull all the OE TCU and ECU wiring out.

okay, So whatever is wrong with this forum IDK. I post the link, and it disappears when the post is up. It's on youtube. https://youtu.be/_SxhJOZO9sk

https://youtu.be/_SxhJOZO9sk So here is a video link for the trip I took at the end of October to Shotgun Cr. OHV park, outside Eugene OR. The group was several Jeeps and Toyotas, and my one Subaru. Fenders removed for work on a splash gaurd/mudflap project. It has fenders again now. The tires on "T-bone" Are pretty worn out too, but still did well for 15+ year old cracked and bald mudders. skid plates held up. Nothing broken except my spine for about a week after this. My buddy Zach is the guy in the Built Longarm JK 4-door. $80k+ sure does make it look easy. Look particularlly for the wheel bounce on the last uphill at 7 mins. I did eventually make it up that climb, not sure why the video isn't there. T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Ran the gambler winter wonder 500 2 weeks later. T-bone is a tough Beeaaooch.

they are out of production now, but if you can find a set still, I really like the Yokohama Geolander MT directional mud tires. For snow tires I am run 31x10.50 Dean Wintercat on the big wheeler, and Nokian studded snows on my stock Forester.

sounds like you didn't get grease well packed into the new bearings or you used cheap (non-c3 grade) 6207 bearings. I have an Axle nut welded to another smaller nut which threads onto my slide hammer. Very useful for pulling new axles though new bearings. Also, if the nut is coming loose, you didn't get enough torque on it and or you got the spring washer upside down. The "dome" goes outward. 150 ft/lbs is what I shoot for.

Probably didn't repack the new bearing. Garaunteed failure within 1~3 years. Also may have used cheap "centric" or even Timken bearings. NSK or Koyo only for these people. Even the FAG bearings are no good for subaru. They are just "off" in terms of clearances and material quality. Whatever the brand, they probably Installed it with glorified Vaseline "shipping" grease that comes in the bearing for rust prevention in storage. Subaru wheel bearings DO NOT come prepacked with wheel bearing grease. they must be properly packed with High temp bearing grease to come even close to lasting as long as the Originals.

You are wrong here regarding EA82s ALL of the blower direction controls are Vac controlled for Non-XT EA82 cars. The blend door for temperature is cable controlled. Check for the cable connected (above /right of gas pedal) and check that the bevel gear it engages that actually moves the door is not stirpped or otherwise out of wack.

If the wheel is leaning on top you probably broke the trailing arm mount.

looks like junk. Doesn't give any specs for pressure or flow. I would look at it that you got the car so cheap, you can afford to spend more on reasonable quality parts not catalog crap. You didn't get a $60 car. You got a $1000 car for $60 bucks. I would say you've got $940 bucks worth of work you can justify. But do what you will. Put garbage parts in, you will have a garbage ride, and it will sit again for 9 years til it gets crushed.

Black intake. IIRC these ones are slightly longer but only from some suppliers. Others they are same. Brown exhaust. Only difference. No difference Carbed vs. FI Any variations seen are from aftermarket manufacturers.

could be. Also check the mounting "tophat" orientation. it is possible to put the tophat on upside down.

If you buy "new" Axles from autozone, Napa, FEQ, wherever, there is a critical step that will make them last longer. When the new axles are assembled, they shove the grease way down into the bottom of the cup, before inserting the guts and shaft and clamping it closed. This means that while there is grease at the bottom of the cup, the joints are still mostly dry. What I do is spend about 3~5 minutes bending and rotating the outer ends, and plunging the inner joint all the way to bottom and back out a few dozen times. You will hear and feel the grease spread around in the joint and ease up the motion. I have never had problems with "new" aftermarkets axles after I started doing this with every one I buy. I recommend OE axles to my customers, but they usually opt for the sub ~$100 dollar axles rather than pony up $250+ for new OE Subaru. I won't reboot old axles for customers. Maybe for my own wheeler. I will install a rebooted or used pull out if they supply but with no warranty.

All EA82 top hats are the same. Shocks themselves had some variation. Get a matched set of springs and a matched set of 4wd sedan Shocks. Check to make sure you have full bushing new sets (2 per) correctly installed on both sides.

Malarkey. Left and right side are completely symetrical. If your car has one side higher mounting point it's been wrecked and bent. And anymore, Loyale/GL 4wd shocks are the same parts if you are buying new.

Uh..... How do you propose that a hole with a HLA sitting still in it is going to wear? If they "wear" to the point of being stuck in the head, I would say that the clearances are pretty tight, and the oil is going into the HLA, not leaking out the top of it's bucket. The HLA bores are NOT the problem. #1 problem to address is oil pump SHAFT SEAL. Not just the Mickey and the big o-ring......gotta change that shaft seal, correctly, without damaging rotor during R+R. #2 Cam Tower O-rings, and seal of Cam tower to the center of the head. #3 Failed HLA.....not common, they are simple devices. Ussually they just are stuck and can be rehabed. Worst case remans are available for pretty cheap Search "mizpah" If none of this helps, it can mean the pump is too weak.

Well there ya go. The white/red wire needs to be hooked up for sure. It's the "charge" light circuit, and provides a resitance load to excite the ALT. It should be the upright leg of the "T-connector". Fuji labels this always as "L" terminal or "Lamp" The other wire, Black/white probably, needs to be connected to a battery 12v + source also. Switched power would also be ok, just needs to see system voltage at that wire, the horizontal "top" of the "T-connector" This is the "sense" or "system" wire that the voltage regulator uses to monitor system voltage. Always labeled by Fuji a "S" terminal.

doesn't matter if they are factory tops. some aftermarket tops are "offset" for camber change but the stockers are symetrical

You are wrong on that one. a few people are taking cars out there to daily drive. But alot of them are being collected proper. these were restored cars. Maybe will get taken to the dunes in the summer, but they are not gonna be "daily drivers' these were show cars. '80's japanese cars are the hot ticket collectables on the eastern seaboard. They stand out from all the rice burner "tuner" wannabe's at the car shows. Beisdes, everone out there drive like 90mph all the time. Nobody wants to daily drive a Brat on 1-95.

OIl pump pickup o-ring or Oil pump seal o-ring. If it's not that, it's piston slap.

round here maybe, but on the east coast, were they are all gone and people are rediscovering that old subarus are awesome. And the general economy is stronger for more expensive car options. Saw a whole trailer full of restored older 1st and second gens being shipped to the east coast......selling for WELL over 5k. Fully restored clean cars though.

Ej Alt is puttingout too much amprage for the old EA wiring. Run a new wire, 10 or 8 gauge, from Alt output to battery terminal. Use 1~2" section of 10 or 8 gauge fusible link wire at the battery end. This will give the Alt charge proper rated path for amps to get to the battery. Bypassing the OE fusible link and old wires. A simpler but maybe less complete fix could be to simply cut back about 12" of the White charge wire, and spice in a new wire ther to the Alt output. The old wire just can't handle hte Amps of the EJ alt.