Gloyale

That could be a tall order. Even the FSM's for that year had very poorly drawn and labeled diagrahms. And they weren't detailed about every wire color and connector like the newer diagrahms. Maybe you should focus on making repairs to ciruits that aren't functioning. Limit the scope to what you need to fix, rather than a wholesale remake of the loom.....which would be VERY tough to do.

Install a "T" fitting where the HH is. One line in from Master cylinder, the other 2 are lines out to the Front Left, and Rear Rigth brakes. *note* newer models such as a 96 outback and others, use only the Front left wheel for hillholder. those models you can simply use a double ended fitting to fit the lines togheter.

After 82+ until into the 90's, If they where manual trans, they WILL have a hill holder

Yes, but you will have to swap the flange on the front of the diff that the driveline bolts to. 2000+ have a larger flange.

Is second gear slippy as well? If so, I'd tighten the brake band 1/2 a turn and see if that helps. Brake band may be toast though.

I think the connector changed....but that is all. Easy to splice.

Happen to remeber what brand? The "Whon" axles from china are GARBAGE.

I installed the Solenoid and the "boost Sensor" (pressure sensor) on mine (96 Outback 2.2 harness) I ran it without them for a while, mostly because my donor car was wrecked and that solenoid and sensor where damaged. I had to get another set from the junkyard. FWIW, it ran fine without them.....but did throw a code for it. Same with the fuel temp sensor.

It's not the diff. It's either one of the axles....which is very common. Alot of the axles available now are cheap chinese junk. Klick clak right out of the box. Other possibility is the hub splines. pull the hub, and look at the splines. There should be a flat spot between each of the valleys. If the splines come up to a point, and there is no flat spot on the tops of the splines, the hub is worn and needs replaced. Makes all kinds of weird false bearing/axle problems.

Looks like you've got your accesories vacuum hooked to the ported vacuum rather than full intake vacuum. The line for the vac canister and Cruise should be hooked to the port on the top of the #3 intake runner, rather than throttle body vacuum.

You run the risk of burning a valve on any that are too tight. It is a PITA to get tothem, but worth it to save a full vavlve job. Of course, you likely will pull heads for Headgsakets at some point so maybe you could wait.

Any 88+ disty will work. They will have the square plug. 86 and 87 optical disty will have round plug. If you want to use one of these, you will need to repin the wires into a square connector. When doing so, swap the position of the Green and the White wires on the DISTY side of the connector.

Yeah, that's normal RPM's Remember, the speed limit was 55 everywhere in the US when these cars were introduced (1985) The thing is that these engines will run happily at 4k rpms all day. And as long as you keep a light, steady throttle foot they still get good mileage. Just don't expect to be doing 90mph down the highway all the time, they don't like that. 55-70 ( 3200-4500rpm) is where they are happy.

It's never gonna be right until you build some strut TOP blocks with a correct angle.

You should test for power ot the pump when cranking. The FPCU (relay) won't send power though to the pump unless there is an ignition pulse (tach pulse) The unit itself is attached to the drivers side kick panel, just above the hood release. 6 pin connector, has 3 diamond logo on it. ONe of the wires(solid blue?) should get power with key "on" The yellow wire should give a tach pulse. The Blue/red wire is the Fuel pump wire and should get power whenever the Tach wire get's a pulse Black is a ground.

I would wager that the engine reaches 3000 rpm sometimes, even in town. What seems more consitant in this case is that it happens at freeway speeds.....not nescesarily an RPM issue. I would propose that it isn't an issue of engine RPM, but of vehichle speed. Specifically the speed of the front differential in the trans. The front diff drags through gear oil, and as it does, it slings a stream of fluid. This fluid flies directly onto the front seal of the trans input shaft. The faster you go, the more it slings. When the seal get's leaky (usually because of a bit of play in the support bearing) then it starts to leak when you drive consistantly at high speed. Leaks directly onto the exhaust crossover. Excactly where you would see oil from a rear main or seporator leak, but this isn't oil.....it's Gear oil. My guess. Try to examine the oil and see if it has that funky gear oil smell or if infact it is just engine oil.

Not all crank gears have the dot. In fact I'd say most just have the hash line on the ear in the back. Come to think of it, I've only seen the dot on newer engines Phase II 2.5) that have the 36 individual ears, rather than the 5 or 6 that are on the early type.

This means the vac line that goes to the controls in unhooked. Check the line in the engine bay that goes from intake to the reservior on the Pass. side strut tower. If that is good, follow the line across the back of the engine bay and over to near the Wiper motor. The line then goes through the rubber grommet and into the cab. If you can't find a break before that, then look up under the dash where the line comes in and make sure it's still connected up under there. This is the resistor block that controls the fan speed gone out. Well, at least speeds 1 and 2 are gone (usual, the lowest settings are the first to go) The block is located just after the fan in the ducting. Remove the lower panel on the passenger side, and look for a small rectangle block srcewed into the bottom of the duct. It has 4 wires coming off it, variations of blue. 2 screws and one of the fan motor bolts come out to remove it. It can be replaced, or repaired with the right resistors. I believe there is a thread about repairing them in the USRM.

That diagrahm above is for 2000+ LEGACY outbacks. Do you have a LEGACY outback (OBS = Outback Sedan)? Or do you have an IMPREZA outback (OBS = Outback Sport)?

Did you plug the MAF back in? Is the IAC hose connected? All the PCV hoses? I'll bet it's an intake thing and you've got an unmetered air leak.

First off, the Marks on the timing gears do not represent TDC on any piston. In fact the opposite. With the Crank Gear mark straight up, ALL 4 pistons are excactly half way in the bores, 2 on the way up, 2 on the way down. That said, let's locate the marks. Crank gear, the mark is on one of the ears at the back of the gear. It's the one directly opposite of the keyway. So when the mark on the gear is straight up, aimed at the mark on the Crank sensor boss, the keyway will be straight down. Cam gears: The intake Cams (upper) have a single mark, and a double mark. The single goes straight up, the double straight down. Both heads. The Exhaust cam has a single mark, and a double. The double goes straight up, and should be aligned with the double mark of the intake cam. The single hash is 90 deg. off. Should point directly to the "outside". Use this mark to align with marks on the new belt. If using an old belt, ignore it, and go by the other marks being excaclty vertical.

I just worked on a 99 OB Limited yesterday with it's orgiginal HGs. 168k miles. No bubbles in coolant and the coolant looked CLEAN (drained to change water pump) Given the sheer number of 90's Outbacks I see driving around, I'd say it's a crap shoot, not a garauntee. You do at least have a chance of getting lucky and not having problems.

Just to clarify. The dots on the CAM sprockets are SUPPOSED to be 180 from each other. When one is up, the other is down. So unless both dots were up at the same time, the belts were correct.

Yaeh but he's still using all the Imp electronics. Shouldn't matter unless the CAM sprocket is somehow different. I am pretty sure they are the same so there shouldn't be an issue. Did the CTS get hooked up? Is it good? Try unplugging it for full rich start.

That's pretty low PSI if those are accurate #s. What did you do about the EGR valve on the 1.8 manifold? that's the only major difference I can see. Doubt that would cause starting issues but.... Double check the small stuff. All connectors and all intake hoses.