Gloyale

Hmm.....Looks very similar to the current Subara MLS gaskets for 2.5s. ?

I was thinking it would be too short as well:confused: Wonder if he's got a Gen 2 Brat driveline? Slightly longer?

Phase II intake won't bolt to the Phase I heads. You need to use a harness and ECU from a Phase I engine.

I went out to a rutted mud hole in in my then unlifted, unmodified, 89 GLturbo (4EAT trans) with a friend in an 88 Cherokee (same engine, tires, and axle as the Wrangler of the day, coils in front instead of leafs) I made it through cause the Wheels can drop when the belly hangs up. The Jeep didn't cause his axle was grading the hump in the middle of the ruts. Had to pull him out. Both cars had AT tires. Moral of story........Independant suspension is better in ruts and mud. Straight axles are great for crawling but not so much for rutted, muddy roads

Excactly, you gotta have 37's on those solid axles to get the same clearance at the diffs as a Subaru on 30's I could build 2 Subaru wheelers for the price of those tires.

EA81 + 3AT They aren't THAT bad, especially if it's not gonna be hard core wheeled, just driven in snow. The 3ATs near instant pushbutton engagement (electrically switched hydraulic) is perfect for areas of alternately snow and clear roads encountered in places other than the PNW.

Na that won't matter at all. In fact, there is a discrimination pin that can be grounded or ungrounded to tell the ECU whether it's in an Auto or Manual. EJ ECU's are the same way. What I would suggest would be to pull the entire harness from the Turbo car, all of it. Strip it down to just what connects to the motor and the MAF. Because it's an early turbo, you will also need the Knock Control unit, which controls spark. It's insdie the passenger side of the dash, between the glove box and the A pillar. Also you will need to swap the whole front crossmember to clear the up-pipe. IDK man......I feel like saying that you'd be better off using good interior and body parts from the 87 to repair the 85. Probably easier than doing an engine swap. If you want to keep the turbo. If you're set on the 87, and are gonna go through the trouble of wiring in F.I., that particular setup (flapper MAF, 1st gen heads, Knock unit and Disty w/ impossible to find rotor, prone to head cracks) would be the MOST work for the LEAST gains. SPFI the 87's motor would be easier, and more reliable. EJ'ing it would be the very best option. You could at least use the 85 turbo Fuel pump for that so it wouldn't be a waste.

Nah, there is no EGR valve. It's not a 2.5 But based on the Intake and lack of MAF sensor it is likely a 98 or 99. So it is an interference 2.2. I'd pull the covers and inspect before running it at all even for a second.

Before....no engine. After w/ EJ18

+1

Well, to be fair...the only part that is different is the ECU itself. All the other stuff electronics are the same.....it's just the configuration at the ECU.

I'd use the side cups that where with the VLSD originally, so you have matching races. Check for just a hair of backlash, not too much, but not tight. Adjust shims if needed. For the VLSD, you should not need to grind anything. Straight gear oil. 95-99 axles will work directly. So will early Forrester axles. Possibly early WRX WAGONaxles as well. (WRX sedan is wider by a hair) I would personally just install the whole axles, rather than hybrid them. The one 32mm bolt on the axle is less work (and much less greasy) than removing and replacing an inner joint. Either way should work.

Suit yourself. But that 82 wagon in your picture needs ALOT of work to look even half as nice as the 89.

There are no lines on an EA radiator to the turbo. All the fluid lines for the turbo come directly from the engine. (oil supply and return, and coolant supply are in the pass. head, coolant return is in the intake crossover) Are you sure you aren't confusing the auto tranny fluid heat exchanger lines (drivers side, 2 ports)? there should be nothing different about the 2 raditors except one from an auto will have those extra ports for the trans fluid.

honestly that 82 looks pretty rough. In comparison, the 89 T-wagon looks sweet. It will accept the EJ 4eat with the 2.2, and it's already got the discs, the digidash, and a High pressure fuel pump. If it where me I'd put the work into the 89 and do something else with the 82.

make sure to get those rear discs off that turbo wagon forget about the digdash. they are junk

96 has door locks controlled by the drivers door as a "master" lock. in 97, and after they made a seperate button on the door for "lock/unlock", one on both drivers and passenger side. So this means the front door cards, and the wiring for the door locks is different. Also, 96 the headlights and markers are single piece, whereas the 98 they are a 2 piece. In 99 they went back to a single piece, but slightly different than the 96 ones. 99.9 percent interchangable though.

One other thing I am getting from this is that no one has addressed the Air Suction Valve boxes and there hoses. I think those are 2 of the "5" he mentioned. So with the PCV thing covered, I will address the ASVs Each of the ASV hoses is connected to a plastic silencer box, and before that a reed vavle mounted in a metal housing box. A stainless steel tube connects the Exhaust port to this housing, which has a reed valve inside. I will refer to the metal boxes with the valves inside as the ASV. The whole system is meant to reduce backfires, and for emissions. An overly complicated and outdated approach. The easiest way I have found to take the system out, and plug the ports on the exhaust is the " $.50 " trick. 1) Remove the plastic silencers, and all the rubber hose. 2) Remove the mounting bolts for the ASV boxes. 3) Unscrew the large nuts that secures the stainless steel tube into the ASV boxes. 4) Wiggle the end of the stainless out of the box, place a Quarter in the opening, and thread the stainless tube back into the box and tighten. 5) Remount the ASV box to the head, but leave off all the rest of the rubber line and plastic silencer boxes. With the quarters in the ports of the ASV, no exhaust gas can make it by, effectively sealing the system off. Alternately, you can make small block off plates to bolt onto the ports at the exhaust, and remove the ASVs and the stainless tubes entirely for a cleaner look, but really it doesn't matter. The quarters trick is the simplest and quickest way and requires no special fabrication.

Get new OEM plug wires, and Make sure they are not running too close to the injector wires. Use a section of plastic wire loom wrap (the corrugated stuff) on each of the plug wires where they run near the Injector wires. Make sure the injector wires don't have any knicks or exposed strands of wire and if they do wrap in electrical tape.

Yup, 90-01 Manual trans models used a simple single coil IAC. (2 contacts, 12+v and ECU controled Ground) All the Autos, and all enignesafter until 99 used the dual coil(3 contacts, 12v+, and 2 ECU controlled grounds)

Legacy 4eat will bolt directly to the EJ, and has 3.9 gear ratio rather than the GL-10's 3.7 Also, you can simply leave the EJ ECU and TCU and all wiring in the harness when you do you're strip down, so there will be no need to merge the 2. Really a 5spd AWD would be the best if you feel like your gonna race it.

I believe that is a heat shield for the lower edge of the timing belt cover. Protects from the heat of the Exhaust crossover that runs under the covers on the front of the motor.

I think this could be part of the problem. You really should have tapped into a power wire for the relay rather than cut the wire entirely.

Most places will charge extra for a Valve Job and Stem reseal.

Battery Terminal corrosion.