Gloyale

Some newer front wheel drive cars you can't take out both sides at once because the spiders there pin will fall out. Doesn't apply to any subaru I know of. Espescially older ones with Male stubs. Axles just slide onto the stubs, so nothing inside is disturbed. But on Honda Civics and Accords, Nissan Altima, and slews of others it is nessecary to either do one at a time, or use a wooden dowel rod inserted through the first axle "hole" to support the spiders while the other side is removed.

Nah.....you can remove them and the car runs fine. I've never been able to notice any difference. On;y way I've ever known one to be bad was a CEL for it.

Might be an IAC issue. Early ECUs, when the ECU can't control Idleing via the IAC, it cuts fuel to the #1 injector. But like you said, it will be easier to diagnos if the CEL is working.

Yeah, the side rails are actually bolted though. Nuts under the headliner.

Grind the nubs off the hubs on the car. Of course, if you DID machine the wheels, you could have it done to excactly the size of the centering nubs. hmm.....

Check the wires for the Cam and Crank sensor where at each side of there connectors. I've seen a few times where the wires there start to get cracked insulation, and corrode and fray. This can cause very odd misfires and inability to rev. Get it running and then pull the CAM sensor plug, it should smooth out and go rich, retarded. IF so then you know the Cam sensor or wiring for it is bad.

I have a 96 EJ22 (SP exhaust, roller rockers) in my 89 wagon, and it's just the same as the ones on the early 2.2s in Legacies. Other than the sensors electrical connection. I guess I am not 100% positve about 97-98 engines but the ones I've seen didn't jump out as different.

The ECS light is in the strip below the display, to the right of steering column. Look at the circuit board on the back side for the ECS bulb. There are 2 traces or contact points for that bulb. Measure which one of the contacts has 12v current with the key on. The opposite contact is the negative side, which is grounded by the ECU to light the CEL(ECS) Trace that contact back on the board and identify which wire in the loom it goes to. Hook the EJ CEL wire to that one.

Check the Choke, and bowl vent solenoids for short to ground.

It surprised me when you said this car was an 81 w/EA81 but NOT a D/R? Well guess what, that is DEFINATELY a D/R trans. You can see the rod running on the drivers side that activates the Hi/Lo. (above picture) Someone must have changed the shifter out. From what I gather, that car is a rarity. Something about a one year only crossmember to fit an EA82 5spd trans? Or something like that C'mon experts, what was so special about the EA81 D/R brat?

If you are replacing the line, and removing the HH, then just cut the line right at the nut, and use a 6 point socket to remove it. Hammer it on if you have to. I wouldn't bother with JY stuff. Just buy a few sections of bend to fit line with metric connections, and a matching "T" fitting. Should be less than 25 bucks for 2 lines (guessing 1 about 2 feet, and 1 about 4 feet) and a "T"

No, the Cam pulleys are the same for all Phase I EJ22 Early sensors have wires attached, and connect at back of motor. Later models sensor have connectors at right at the sensor. Electrically they interchange, use whichever ones needed to match the Harness in the car.

EA71 4spd is a top mount starter. He will need a 4spd from an EA81 for a direct bolt up W/adapter plate. Or he will need a 5spd from EA82, w/adapter plate, and modified crossmember, shifting, and driveline.

Different Phase Trans. Also vastly different gear ratios (3.54 vs. 4.44) Phase I TCU won't run the Phase II trans in his car. And if it could, the shift points would be WAY goofy for the 4.44 trans. Now, about the TPS, that will be the biggest issue mating the EG33 ECU to the TCU. The EG, and Early EJ TPS outputs in a different range than the Phase II EJs. You may need a resistor or two to alter the TPS output to the correct range. Unfortunately, I am not the one to calculate. But find info on the range of outputs of both TPS(s) and post and perhaps one of our Electro-tech savvy members could do the math.

I would try to chase the threads with a tap first. It seems unlikely to me that the entire length of threads is stripped, probably just the first few got buggered when the bolt backed out far enough. The keyway can be repaired by JB welding the key into it. Or, you can weld it up and grind it down to fit.

Shouldn't matter. Don't grind it flat. If you are gonna use the bevel tool, it will cut the "pocket" even. If you decide to not bevel and use flat nuts, they will clamp tight even with that bit of convex. I've used Nissan and Isuzu wheels with that same convex and it's not a problem.

Urathane bushings for VW beetle front end are available from EMPI, and their dealers. I used them on my EJ22'd 89 GL. Only "mod" was 2 Large washers placed "behind" the front bushing, and 2 more before the nut. The VW bushings aren't quite as thick. So you need the washer to compress them tight to the bracket

I'm curious as to why not mount those speakers in the doors? You can mount them "over" the door cards if they are too deep. I personally think the big dash add on fiberglass thing will be kinda weird. Cool work, you're doing a great job, it's just ......why not in the doors? FWIW, the "Euro"(2 cups+ cubby) and "Euro Jr."(1 cup) adjustable cupholders availble at almost any auto parts store work AWESOME on a GL dash. They come with velco pads or screws. I screw them down. They are secure enough that I can leave a full cup of coffee/w lid in one and drive corners like I'm Auto X-ing and they don't move. Plus it creates a barrier to prevent things from sliding around so much. Put the speakers in the door, and a "Euro" on the dash, and you've got speaker and 2 cupholders and still a few flat spots to set down those controllers when the thumbs cramp up. Remember, it's your car not mine so feel free to disregard everything I say.

Wait for a typically cold morning in your area, and do this adjustment before starting the car. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the choke spring cover. Some models they are riveted, drill out rivets. Chisel off the small tab on the rim around the choke lever, this will let you reposition the cover. Then bend a new hook into the end of the choke spring. replace choke cover, catching the spring on the lever. Rotate the cover until the choke flap closes and then use sheetmetal screws to secure cover in place. If it doesn't want to stay tight, you may have to put a slight bend in the ring that "locks" the choke cover. If you set it too tight, the engine will choke excessively long, and will high idle more than needed. So it may take a few adjustments to get it "just right" You may need to re-adjust when the weather changes drastically again (typically each fall and spring)

YES You will basically have to replumb one ciruit of the brake lines in the front of the car. (front left and rear right) good news is that there ar convienient connectors in the engine bay for the Rear lines, one on each side up against the firewall. Run a new line from the MC outlet that went to the HH, and instead run it into a "T" connection. from there run it to the connector at the rear of engine bay for the passenger side rear. Run the other side of the "T" to the connection with the rubber line at the Drivers side wheel. Front right, and Drivers rear should be unaffected.

IIRC, EJ257 is Semi closed (bridges at top, bottom and sides)

It will need. Tach signal VSS signal TPS (Throttle Sensor) signal. (this is the tough one) The carbed car won't have a TPS. YOu could rig one from a MPFI GL or EJ car (use one that matches the TCU you pick) onto the throttle shaft of the carb. He can run a 3.9 trans off a 3.7 computer(personally done this and it worked fine) I am also guessing he can run 4.11 trans off 3.9 computer. The difference is still small. But if the difference is too far off (4.11 off 3.7 computer, 3.9 off 4.44 computer, etc...) it will cause problems.

Turning the engine by the Cam? otherwise I don't think it would have skipped. I know you already installed the solids, but did you ever try reprinming the old HLA's with clean oil? they almost always spit out a burst of nasty black oil and then free up to expand fully. Simply pull them out by the base from the rocker, immerse upside down in clean oil and poke open the vavle on the bottom while pushing down to compress the piston. Then let it rexpand, filling with clean oil. If it won't fully expand you can use poker to push it, just use something that won't break and casue damage to the HLA, yourself, or make a mess. Back to skipped timing and solids. If you turned the engine using the Crank bolt, the belt most likely didn't skip. valve clearance is wrong.

You could install an SPFI setup from an 87+ EA82. GD has done an excelent write up about it. If you really wanted to at that point, you could turbo it w/ a manual boost controller and keep the boost low (3-5psi) I saw an EA82 SPFI w/ a bolted on turbo setup at this years WCSS and it seemed to do pretty well. No reason and EA81 wouldn't work. But in truth, as stated you will get more power with an EJ