Gloyale

New ones have a bump in the corner Old ones have a rivet with a hole through it See above pic.

yes it works great. I personally gave up beveling rims after about the 3rd set. It's hard to do. Additionally, should your new holes be Slightly off center, now the bevel will try to force the whole rim off center. Also, the metal you drilled thorugh probably got hot, lost temper of metal, and is now prone to "mushrooming" from the force of a beveled nut. The original holes are most likely hardened. Whereas, if you just drill the hole and put a flat nut on it, all the force is clamp force, and none of it is trying to "fight" the other 2 factory holes to keep the wheel centered. I personally have less shaking, and feel safer with straight drilled holes, and a flat nut.

Doubt it would be at a specific point in the turning. It would be a random binding/bucking My money would be on the steering u-joint coupler.

You are correct, i was going from memory, but yes it is .5mm enlarging limit.

This type of problem can also happen if a Single pole bulb (turnsignal) is installed into a Double pole socket (tail/brakes). The single pole bridges the 2 circuits, and the tailights backfeed when you hit the brakes. the offset pins on a double pole bulb should prevent this, but it still happens sometimes.

First Gen legacy rear diffs male stubs, female axle. To use on the Imp, any First gen legacy axles will work.

It won't. The aluminum barrel around the liner on EJ blocks is only about 10mm thick. The barrel is is cast different sizes depending on whether it's a 18, 20, 22, or 25. To bore out a 18 to 22 you'd have a barrel that was about 2mm thick at the top edge, and that would be all Aluminum. there Physically is not enough meat to "resleeve" the block. Besides, these blocks don't have conventional sleeves anyhow. they are not pressed fromt eh top, but rather encapsulated in the block when it is cast. Maximum oversize bore on ANY EJ engine is .25 mm. They cannot be resleeved. Period.

Something was wrong with your EJ22 then. An EJ22 in a BRAT? That thing should HAUL. With the the EJ22 in my 89 GL it screams. WAAAY faster than the EA82T that came in the car, even with 205/70/15 tires. A Brat must weight at least 600 lbs less. My lifted 84 wagon .with the EJ18 running 235/75/15s is faster than it was with stock tires and the SPFI'd EA81 IDK.....he said he wanted an EJ18, so I told him what he will need to install it.

Yeah, but he should still pull it and the rest of the harness that is attached to the Grey one. The White one is not needed, Looks like the white one in the picture is waht he was asking about. In case you haven't gotten it yet, Don't forget the wiring that runs though the firewall to the ignitor and the Crank/Cam/Knock sensors.

Ratio is 4.44 IIRC......only other option would be 4.11 so either way you are gonna have to pull the chunk and fit it into a 3.9 case. If you are really in a pinch, the old style stubs, if unbolted from the diff, will slip in and work.....not a daily driver solution though, just an emergency measure. I think you could go back and get the axles from the forrester and use them. I don't think they moved the tone ring to the axle on Forresters until 2003. Or even better get some 95-99 Legacy axles. Those will definately work. (we used them to put an 04 outback VLSD into a 90 Lego) Either will fit your Legacy directly, no need to swap cups.

Inline would equal a 24v system Parallel is what he wants. both positives and both negtives toghether.

Rebuild it with new friction discs, and a new reverse-2nd brake band. INstall new One way "sprauge" clutches. OR get used trans......that could blow out again. Those are the choices

It's not. The angle is deceptive from picture. It's called "forced perspective" There is however an adjustment on the rear torsion bar and the front spring seats.

It's purely luxury options. Nicer cloth interior, sunroof, digidash, Cruise, Power windows, and Trip Computer. I had an 88 2wd GL-10 turbo(3at auto). And an 85 GL-10 turbo (5mt, 4wd sinlge range) I have an 84 GL sedan w/ all the GL-10 options except the plush seats (digidash, cruise, sunroof, alloy wheels) It's really nothing more than some options

Do you have them tied into the Stock headlights? Is it possible that when you switch on the Headlights, the Roof lights are affected? Also, FWIW, 16 lights is MASSIVE overkill. The amps issue is a very real one.

Some Legacies have a Tapered spring. So if he has those, he must use the Legacy springs in the rear. If he has the non-tappered springs, he can use the Outback springs, but still need the Legacy tophat in the rear. great tip on the brake lines.

Looks like a stock brat w/ redrilled 14' or 15" chevy sixlugs w/ low profile rubber.

The 92-94 harness/ECU is pretty much identical to the 90,91......however I think the 92-94 are a tad less picky about controling the idle. My swap done with a 93 harness had no issues. the swap I did with a 90 harness was touchy, and liked to trip the IAC code and consequently cut fuel to #1 injector. This was partly because the swap was into an 80 without a VSS or Nuetral switch. Installed a VSS and clutch switch, still had issues. Eventually we just plugged the IAC ports and it runs great like that (another option for those struggling with "the surge") I personally now preffer the OBD-II harness from 96-98. If you keep the OBD-II connector, then you can use a scan tool w/live data. That is the absolute best troubleshooting. Additionally, the harness doesn't have the SMJ, and all needed wiring runs to the firewall, so it's all pretty much the same length and fitting to the EA car is easier.

Pretty much the same width. But the holes are different. The 2000 spoiler won't completely cover the OE holes of the 95 (or the 91-94 turbos) So you'd have 2 holes to fill and paint.

It's a .5mm offset from the centerline of the piston. There is no difference in the rods...but the pistons ARE offset and there is a reason they stamped them with the arrows. This places them "loaded" to one side a tad to prevent piston slap and tilting back and forth within the cylinder. There is LOTS of info about this in the FSMs. Started in 87 or 88 I believe. The offset wristpin hole is something Subaru still does on the new engines. Don't believe me, fine. But you asked a question and that IS the answer.

Not trying to argue, but respectfully, Have you ever put an EJ18 into an EA81 car? I have. It's WAAAY worth the effort. If for nothing else that you now have a modern, easy to get parts for engine. EJ22 is overkill unless you are trying to go very fast. The EJ18 is much more common for the aussies, I believe. HUGE upgrade from a stock EA81. Probably cheaper to get and run. And in AUS, he might even be able to get a Carbed one so no wiring harness or ECU to strip and install. That would make the EJ18 swap multitudes simpler.

I didn't assume. Read the second sentence of his post.

I have an EJ22 in one of my other cars (89 GL) it's great for street/highway. EJ18 is cheaper, and has plenty of torque for wheeling without so much that it will break stuff like axles and trannies all day. it's more durable. As far as a donor car. IDK why everyone obsesses over that. TO me it's cheaper to go to a pick-a-part and pull a harness, ignitor, and MAF. Ussually less than 100 bucks, then get a used 1.8 ((50-$100) Good running EJ22 cars (especially OBD II ones, which I preffer the harness) are at least $300 if not $700 or $800. And then you have to deal with all the hassle of getting rid of a stripped out junk car. Easy for alot of us, but harder for alot more. opinions are like ....oles, ya know:rolleyes: