Gloyale

We got around the IAC problem by swapping the Phase I throttle body onto the Phase II intake, with a block off plate sandwhiched between to block the port for the IAC on the throttle body. the 4 bolt holes line up excactly. Plugged in a phase I IAC body just ziptied to the manifold, but connected electrically to dummy the CPU so no codes. Also, Phase II Injector wire connectors needed to be soldered onto the Phase I harness. Use the Phase I coil. One mounting bolt is fine. ***you'll need to swap Phase I style end clips onto the Phase II spark plug wires to fit the Phase I coil.*** Wires will be tight but will work. Engine will need a few seconds of held throttle to idle on cold morning, but after that it will run smooth and idle smooth.

The rope method works well. Remove a plug and stuff it in. Clean new rope preferred.

The marked pistons are an offset wristpin type. IF they are backwards the offset is to the wrong side of the rotation, not sure what that will do....possibly nothing.....possibly slap? possibly hammer the rod bearing or wristpin bushing. I think you will want to switch them around, or use the Symetrical pistons (other 2 sets you mentioned)

Are you sure your Speedo is correct? I know my 84 the speedo is almost 8mph under actual speed by the time It reads 70. The reed switch and the CPU interpretting it will be more acurate than the needle sweep. There could be alot of variation. I am sure though that at least forEA82, in year 85 (the Manual I read it from) says that cruise is limited to 70 or maybe 75? but I definately remember it was annoying in that car(GL-10 turbo)

This could DEFINATELY be you're problem. The way the lever rides in the selector/valve/plunger it can simply slip out the end if the lever is moved past "p" there is a detent to preven this, but I could see an Impact easily twisting the selector past, which it sounds like that happened. Pull the pan. Remove the fork engagement with the plunger, reset the assembly, reseal.

Yeah, they did that because of the new fangled CD craze back in the late 80's/early 90's. I think by 92 they eliminated it from the tapedeck and offered a CD player optional.

Valve cover gaskets are easy. Easier if you have a 10mm gearwrench/ratcheting wrench. Timing belts are a bit tougher, not too hard though. You'll need a breaker bar, 22mm socket, and a C-Clamp or a vise (to slowly compress the tensioner for reinstall) But no other "special" tools. Cam Sprocket wrench could be handy, but ussually can get away just using the old belt and some vicegrips. Better yet, unbolt the pulley before removing the belt. blue Locktite on reinstall BTW, the seal you see at the back side of the cover is just part of the dust shield. The actual "seal" around the camshaft is set into the case around the cam. Drivers side is especially easy to change, because you can remove the extension/sensor holder piece from the head, slide it off the cam and easily press the new seal in flat. Just make sure to get a new o-ring for the extension with the new seal.

Reposted to display pics QUOTE=jaredb3000;962646]Greetings all- Having figured out my cooling and battery issues recently, my new can of worms includes trying to pinpoint the source of oil leakage (94 Legacy Wagon Non-turbo/auto). In this pic, you can't exactly see the fresh oil- the arrow points to the source (the green dots are the older noticeable valve cover gasket oil, been like that for some time): In this pic I have circled what is a rubber gasket behind the camshaft pulley (at a bad angle, the best I could get with my bulky old camera) that appears loose/stretched a bit so that the male component of the gasket does not fit the female component. Seems like that may be the culprit: I circled where there is some fresh looking oil in the driver side timing belt cover: The timing belt appears to be in great shape, with no oil splashing up on to it at all. What I was hoping, but does not seem to be the case for all this oil, is the oil pressure switch: Sooooo- this switch is cheap enough, I'm thinking I should change this, or is it no biggee? As for the camshaft pulley gasket- I feel a bit overwhelmed when studying the shop manual. How tricky is the timing belt for someone who has never done one? Do I need to pick up a camshaft wrench for this car specifically, or is there any tricks to avoid this purchase? And lastly, is there anything to beware of if I replace the rocker cover gaskets? I have never done these before, but it seems simple enough. I figure since I have the room now might be a good time to do those... Any odd tools necessary? Could I get away without having a torque wrench? That is alot of questions, and I thank anyone who takes the time to answer some of them in advance. As soon as I am no longer a broke college student I will certainly donate some loot this forum for the help I have received over the past couple years- cheers.

I didn't have any problems with my 96 2.2 into my 88 EA82T wagon. However, I ran into a similar problem with a 90 Legacy getting a 2001 EJ25 in there. I think he's haveing the same issue here. The 2.2 Manifold, and all the phase I 2.5s I've seen, the bracket bosses are on the rear runner(#4) of the intake. On the Phase II 2.5 the bosses are on the forward runner (#2) of the intake. We had to make a small extension out of a piece of flatbar and then welded the original bracket to that, painted it, looks like a factory piece. Turboturd, It's clear that your intake has bosses for the bracket on the forward runner. Cab, I am pretty sure that on your EJ22T the bosses are at the rear runner, correct? Suberdave, What year intake manifold is on your EJ25/7? Are your bosses forward or rear?

I can do it but you'd have to send it to Oregon. What year WRX? Does it have Cruise and do you want to keep it? It's a great upgrade to the 87 factory setup, and easy to keep in the harness and then mate to the 87 controls if your RX has 'em.

Check the operation of the Vacuum solenoids that activate the Diff lock. They are on the upper portion of the engine bay, drivers side right by the Wiper motor. They are identical to the 4wd solenoid/actuator set-up as the single range 5spd 4wd (pushbutton on shifter) So you can troubleshoot the problem in the FSM as if it was a S/R 4wd that was stuck in 4wd. Basically the idea is that there are 2 solenoids. Each one activates an opposing side of a vacuum activate cable/diaphram. The switch inside is a double throw/ 2 position switch. For Diff lock (or 4wd) one solenoid is electrically activated by the switch, that one opens and supplys vacuum to the side of the actuator that pulls the cable to 4WD position. For Diff unlock (or 2wd) the other solenoid gets power, vacuum to the other side of cable, disengages the the 4wd. So first check vacuum supply to the solenoids (pull the lead hose with engine running, listen for hissing) If that is present then check that the hoses running out of the solenoids to the actuator are intact and connected. If that all checks out, test for 12v on at the solenoids, with the switch in each position, 1 solenoid should have power, then the other when switched. If that all works, then test that the vacuum is being passed through each solenoid again in one switch position then the other. If then it still doesn't work it's time to get under the car and physically try to operate the lever on the rear extension(RH) Stuck= problem in the diff Not stuck, shifts out of locked= vacuum diaphram in the actuator busted, replace.

Well, one of those Dynos doesn't give an RPM reading. So we can't compare the low part of the curve since we don't know the RPMs of the EJ22. Also, does this EJ22 have anything done to it? What about the EJ18? The numbers for the 18 seem off from what subaru says....Peak torque should be at lower RPMS than that. What generation and what heads and Cam is that EJ18 running. But let's eximne what we can from what those graphs do show. It's a matter of 5 hp and maybe 10 ft/lbs difference. And the EJ18 torque curve is more flat on the top all the way to 5500 rpms. We don't know what rpms the EJ22 is turning where it starts to drop off. Look, obviously there is no substitute for displacement. That wasn't really my point. I'm just saying that for a swap into an old gen wheeler, it's a great choice. Facts are facts: 1). Definately true that the EJ18 makes it's peak torque lower than the EJ22. And it's peak torque is barely less than the EJ22. 2). It revs quickly, cools well, and has almost no history of sudden HG failures. 3). It's none interfernce. 4). If it's run off a EJ22 intake and harness, you are ready to put in an EJ22 or 25 so it's a perfect "starter" EJ swap cause you can get them cheap. 5). The highway MPGs are better so you don't use up all your gas getting to the wheelin spot. It's a great engine for wheeling. That's all I got to say about that.

+1000 My back gets too tight to even drive in very cold weather. I HAD to add some heated seats to both my daily drivers. (89 GL wagon, 84 GL sedan) Only rig that doesn't have them yet is my Lifted 84 Wheeler wagon and my Toyota van (of course the Van the seats are directly over the engine so they're heated that way:lol:)

More total toque, but at much higher RPMS. 1st gen EJ18= 110 ft/lbs @ 3200 rpm 1st gen EJ22= 137 ft'lbs @ 4800 rpm roughly 20% more torque, but at 50% higher revs. (actually more because the bottom of the curve would actually be at the 700 rpm idle, not 0 RPMs) I would wager that a dyno would show that torque at or below 3200 RPMS would be equal or better with the EJ18 EJ18 makes a higher % of it's peak torque at lower RPMs. To me, for wheeling that is better. Now if you put a torque cam into an EJ22........throw all this out the window. Of course you could put a torque cam in the EJ18 too.........

Uh, yeah they did. 78-87 equals ten model years of production for the US and they continued making them for other markets until 92 or 93?

Somebody needs some mud tires:grin:

Actually just the opposite. On EJ engines, the #1 crank journal and the #1 rod are the first branches of the oil line. First place for crud to get to a bearing. (and the only branch that DOESN'T travel up to the top of the block then back down. heavier than oil metal particles may take this route more easily than fighting gravity to make it to the top and across to other branches) Second branching is at the top of the block where the OP sender is. passage "T"s then runs to the rear down the RH side, and across the front to the LH side The Passage runs across top of the RH block to the rear, where # 4 and 5 main, and #4 rod are fed. Everything else is fed from the LH case, which is fed from a line at he top of the case where the feed runs to the rear. First on that side is the #2 main, then # 3 main which feeds the #2 and 3 rods. So actually 2 and 3 rods are the "farthest" from the oil pump.

That one is an LSi model......not a standard. Premium sound, sunroof, power antenna, door step lights, upgaded interior. There are LOTS of 1st gen legacies here without ABS or Cruise. Curiously though......I've never seen an EJ ANYTHING here in the states without A/C.

You should put you're paddle shfiter set-up in this car! You built it off a Legacy TCU anyhow right? should be plug and play? And for the doors......I just put a small screw into the door where it contacts the switch....head of the srew acts as a bumper and depresses the switch fully. Door locking on there own when closing is a fault in the lock mechanism, you;ll need to replace those to fix it.

no. zero access to #1 cylinder. very little access to any of the others. And from what I've seen.....#1 is ussually the first one to escape the confines of it's aluminum alloy prison. (5 subaru engines I've seen with rods though the top; 1 EA81, 1 EA82, one EJ22 and 2 EJ25s. ALL of them tossed the #1 rod)

You;ll need: an adapter plate for EJ to EA An EA82 flywheel, holes reamed to fit EJ crank EA82 4wd clutch set EA82 5spd trans crossmember (you can cut off the outer ends, and hammer the box section into a flat, then drill holes to match the brumby mounting bolts) You will also need to get a custom one piece driveline made......or mount a 2 piece driveline from an EA82 also need a 5spd shifter from EA82 or modify a Liberty one. add about 1 inch to your existing 4wd linkage rod. Brumby axles will work fine, unless your 5spd is from a turbo car.

no and if it did, no

From the sound of your understanding of the differnece between an engine and a transmission......no I would advise spending some time doing more research. You need to be able to at least answer your own first 2 questions before you even think of turning a wrench on this project.

Actually, the EJ18 makes BETTER low end power, at lower RPMS. I have one in my EA81 wagon, turning 29" tires w/5spd, and it does great. I haven't run out of grunt on anything yet. And as noted, you can beat the snot out of them. Thick walls to the cylinder, and more room for coolant around them. Small pistons love to rev. I'm running it all off an EJ22 intake and engine management, so yes it's easy.

All that talk about that engine being a test for the EJ timing belt setup. Looks more like an EA82 2 belt arrangement to me. But the belt IS drivng the waterpump.