Gloyale

Take the liscense plates off it and trailer it to an Exhaust shop that HASN"T seen it before. Tell them it is "off highway" only.

Yeah, probably. Probably if there is a Red/Green and a Red those are the lights. But that's a guess. I was thinking of the 4wd button on single ranges, operates the exact same solenoids and vacuum pot to shift 4wd as the Difflock on the FT trans.

The switch has 3 wires. Provide one with power. The other 2 get connected the solenoids, 1 each. If the operation is backwards (locked in the unlocked position) just reverse the vacuum lines out of the solenoids.

Jack it up Remove the wheels, the brake calipers and brackets. Remove the castle nut form the end of the axle, and the roll pin from the inner joint. Then remove the hub/disc assembly. Carefully remove the bearing seal that's behind the hub. Unbolt the Sway bar, and the inner pivot bolt of the control arms. Slide the inner end off the stub. Then use a hammer and drift to knock the axle out of the knuckle, should have enough room to swing the knuckle out with the Control arm and sway bar disconnected. Insert new axle, it may not go through all the way. Get it in as far as you can, then thread the nut onto the end. Use 2 claw hammers, one on each side of the nut, prying against the knuckle (this is why you remove the seal, it'll get boogered here if you don't). You should be able to draw it though the bearings using the 2 hammers far enough to put the hub on and tighten the rest of the way with the nut. Don't forget to put the seal back in first, and it's a good idea to shove some grease in there on the bearings before installing the hub. the rest is reverse of disassemebly.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure they interchange.

90 and some early 91 ECU's (ones with LEDs in them) A faulty IAC and it's associated code will make the ECU cut fuel to the #1 injector. It does this when it determines it cannot otherwise propely control the idle though the IAC. Try replacing the IAC. Make sure you get a correct one. in 90, MT models will use a single coil type (2 pins) and ATs and all 92+ models use a 2 coil type (3 pins) Good luck if you have a MT model.

It would be risky to reuse them I'd say get new ones. And I have to ask, why did you have to take them back off?

Yeah, it's Jatco.......I don't know why I thought Unisia. But yeah, Jatco makes basically all the Japanese Import trannies, so fluid for say a Nissan or a Honda should and does (in my experience) work well for the Subaru trans. Works well for the Power Steering pump too.

He said the car was flat towed, all 4 on the ground. So in that case there should have been minimal movement between the 2 sets of plates. Both should have been spinning the same amount except for the differnence in turning.

test connectors are black and green Unless you are talking about the line end test connectors that are up by the windshield wiper motor. You can use that as a spot to tie intot he EA wiring, but there are better places up under the dash. you need an FSM scan for your year EA. What year is it? Also you need a scan of the wiring for the EJ, with those 2 things you should be able to track it all down. it's gonna take a long time if we have to ID every wire over the forum for you.

The one in the radiator is a simple thermoswitch, just for the fan. Connects the fan to ground when temp gets high. The ECU doesn't control the fan on the EA cars. The ECU temp sensor is the one near the thermostat with 2 wires, the single wire one is for the gauge. You could use the thermoswitch to trigger a relay (set up for ground trigger) for the new fan. Tip: If you run it though a SPDT w/center off switch you can make it so it's on all the time, switched by the switch, or off (for water crossings)

That's the Main ignition relay. Replace it

Probably fine......not great for it......but it's most likely still working. Did you get the engine to rotate? was it hydrolocked? that would eb my guess if the crankcase was full of water.

On the EA81s they come out of the stupid spacer in between the exhaust and the head. you could just remove the spacers, but then the exhaust doesn't quite fit right onto the head (hits crossmember) Instead, unthread the stainless tube where it goes into the box with the reed valve. That's where you put the quarters.

Yes. Look at the chart I posted. That is the only info on rear adjusment for EA82 and EA81 I've ever found. It's from the 86 FSM, though it's the same in all the EA82 FSMs. EA81 rear inner arms are almost identical.......adjustment is the same. If you can't get it in spec with this method, you may have bad pivot bushings on the inner arm.

Hub/Bearing assembly replace as unit......super easy http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1992-Subaru-Legacy/Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-Rear/_/N-iwzflZ6o2nz?filterByKeyWord=rear+hub&fromString=search

Castrol makes a very good ATF for "imports- Honda, Nissan, Toyota" is how it's labeled. (All of those makers and subaru's Auto trans come from same manufacturer, Unisia? I believe) That is the ATF I've had the best luck with in subaru. Espescially the phase II trans. A bottle of "Trans-x stop slip" is good for them too. Get's rid of the delayed engagement/hard shift.

Best thing to do would be to remove the boot on teh axle, and clean and fill it with lots of new grease. This will extend the life of your OE axle for possibly years. Aftermarket axles of all kinds seem to be a crap shoot to me.......perhaps 1 in 3 I've gotten have been good.

Too many issues........ Different lengths (Phase II trans is about 3 in. shorter) Different TCU, that will require more sensors than the 97 (phase I) trans has. Missing 4 bolts on the bellhousing....not a big deal but different. What's wrong with the Original trans? better off to fix that or get a proper phase II trans for the 2000

Listen closely for trans noise. Whining under load. I've seen 2 H6's now with trashed pinion shaft bearing and seal........ lot's of noise, "rocking" on-off throttle, and leaking of ATF into Diff. Requires some serious trans removal and disassembly to fix. Worth it for the H6, if you get it at a good price.

Uh......might have a bit of excessive side clearance with EJ20 pistons in a EJ25 block. Like several mm extra, I don't think the rings will seat:lol:

Where aare you getting this? There are no visible differences in the EJ18 and EJ22 heads. Certainly not "much larger" anything (larger combustion chamber would lower compression:rolleyes:"

Uh......I don't think that's a rear diff stub. I'm thinking that's the front diff stub from a 4EAT. All the 4EAT front diff stubs will pull out if you try hard enough. They are just held by those spring clips. Unlike manuals, which the stubs are held by Circlips that take pliers to remove. To address GD's comment, you are correct that it's possible to use the early stubs as a "conversion" to use with the "innie" rear diffs, but they never came from the factory that way.

Haynes will not have acurate enough info on cruise wiring. The leagcy Cruise pump is located on the lower part of the passenger side strut tower, just above the frame rail. You could adapt the GL pump to work, but it will be easier to use all the leagcy stuff as then you don't have to cut and splice the pump wiring. The only splices will be for the Control buttons in the steering column power from the main On/Off switch. You can eliminate the relay, it was used in the Legacy to cut power each time the ignition is turned off.