Gloyale

I did this in an 89 GL turbo that originally had cruise. It's pretty easy if you get a good diagrahm for the EJ wires. Make sure not to cut out any of the EJ Cruise wiring, and you will probably need the EJ vacuum pump. For mine, I used a 96 outback harness and ECU, Cruise from a MT car. The GL wa originally automatic, stick now. It's not hard to do the wiring. PM me if you have questions.

That Superstock coil is not helping anything. Likely you will fry the ignition module if you leave it in there. Take it out, spark isn't the problem. If the old coil worked you are much better off with it. replace the Cat and you will be fine.

Rings, bearings, gaskets...about $300-400 Machining (crank hone, cylinder hone, head surfacing) I wouldn't think it to be more than $350.....although machine shop rates vary wildly. make sure to order the O-rings that go between the case halves in advance.....they never have them in stock, because Dealerships don't rebuild...they get new shortblocks from subaru:rolleyes:

It's a Phase II ej22. will bolt in to the 91 leagcy, but you will hjave some troubel hooking it up. The Phase II use different heads and intake.....not interchangable with the Phase I electronics. SO you'd have to swap throttle bodies., wiring harness and sensors, and disconnect or at least modify the IAC system. Not worth the trouble get a phase I engine......easier

PB won't hurt anything, it just may not really help either. Are you changing headgaskets on this engine? If so, I would highly recommend pulling the engine. You almost have to to get the heads out. If you don't you risk dinging the surface of the head as you try to monkey it out of there. Then you may be able to get a better grip on the cam bolts.

I have always heard rumor about 1.8 heads having higher compression......but I think it's just that....rumor. I've examined the heads, and I cannot find any differences in head design, shape, or quench area. Pretty sure they are the same heads (1.8 heads have EGR port drilled) I would say just swap the EJ18 intake onto the 2.2 and go with it. I doubt you will notice any difference other than a lighter pocket book from swapping the heads.

I've had alot of trouble with those bolts before. If there is still a good hex head on the bolts just go buy a better (Craftsman, Snap-on, Cornwell, MAC.......)6 point socket, and use a breaker. tap the socket onto the head with a hammer so as to get the best bite on it. If that doesn't work and the heads round off, one thing you can do is use an E15 (reverse torx) socket on the bolt head. Again, hammer it down onto the bolt head, and then try to remove. If that doesn't work, very carefully with a die grinder remove the head of the bolt. Once the head is gone, and there is no more tension on the bolt and the cap is removed it will likely thread right out with pliers. You will need to order replacement bolts from subaru.....about 3 bucks a piece......but they have to be those bolts because there is a shoulder on them that centers the Cam cap. There is no reason to need to junk the heads though.

EA82 it will bolt right in. EA81 you will need to open up(grind or torch) the holes in the crossmember a bit (1/4 inch) towards the outside. Otherthan that it is totally a bolt in affair.

Only if you want to disassemble the pinion shaft. If you are just splitting it to replace seals and in Scott's case weld:eek: the front diff no need to mess with that nut.

The Output shaft needs to engage the center diff. Won't reach the EJ diff

This is an information sharing site. In 5 years and 5000+ posts I have NEVER seen another case of a board member asking for money just for information. If you were asking for money for a donor trans, or parts for the project....it would be differrent. But you are just asking for money from people for the information and to me that is TOTALLY contrary to the whole point of this board. If anything, at this point you are trying to sell something.....This whole thread should be in the "for sale" section since it isn't offering anything informative to anyone who doesn't pay you money.

Didn't you ever learn in school that if you don't show your work you don't get credit? Well since you or whoever started this TEASER b.s. of a thread won't show any pics, or any specs.......it may as well have never happened in my book. Want to prove me wrong.......THEN PROVE IT with some pics and info rather than this petty crap. What are you guys affraid of? This reminds me of late night info-mercials claiming "I got rich and here's how........send me money to find out" And we all know just how legitimate those are.

Uh.....the output shaft is the pinion shaft. Or rather the pinion is inside the output. EA fulltime and the EJ AWD have different length shafts. The EJ pinion would be sticking WAY out the end of the EA outer shaft, and the end of the output shaft wouldn't reach the center diff. They don't just bolt straight toghether. You have to swap gearsets.

No need for 35 mm socket with the 5spd. All you will need is a 1/4 drive 10mm socket on an extension for the reverse lockout bolt. Remember to disconnect the rod that runs forward to the D/R mechanism before oyu try to pull off the rear section. The on;y spring and ball needs to come out is the one on the back side of the reverse check mechanism......this will allow the check to be pushed "out" to get access to the 10mm bolt on the shift rod. Otherwise, it's all really straight forward.

Excactly. Because he won't post the info of what he's done. I already know what the recipe is.....and have posted it...... EA fulltime D/R upper shaft EJ lower shaft withthe Fulltime EA gears pressed onto it(P/T 4wd EA gears won't fit the EJ Shaft) AWD EJ tailsection But I forgot.........I should hold that info hostage and make people pay me for it on a free site.....whatever.......... this whole thread is LAME. taking up bandwidth for no purpose at all.

Whatever......I put up pics of everything I did........for free. And that is my point.

The feedback ECU's don't run the fuel pump. That is still done by a "rev Sensor" or FPCU. Same as the Non-feedback. Trust me.....you can unplug the computer and run the car all day. If you got a weber now, chuck the old ECU.....it's dead weight.

There is a pin in the case and a matching hole in the pinion bearing......must line them up when reinstalling the lower shaft. the upper shaft has a similar setup on the bearing that supports the front part of the shaft. must get those lined up or it all won't fit back toghether

There is a pin in the case and a matching hole in the pinion bearing......must line them up when reinstalling the lower shaft. the upper shaft has a similar setup on the bearing that supports the front part of the shaft. must get those lined up or it all won't fit back toghether

The D/R shifter will bolt directly to your existing shift assembly. Though you will have an unused 4wd button.

NOT TRUE VERY BAD FOR AUTOMATICS While this is somewhat acceptable for manuals, which have gears with teeth that disengage, you CANNOT do this with automatics. Problem is, the automatics use a hydraulic clutch. It's a series of discs, stacked toghether, alternately hooked to inner and outer hubs of the clutch. When engaged, they are forced toghether by hydraulic pressure. But when disengaged....the plates are still in contact, dragging lighty over eachother, lubricated by fluid from the pump. During driving they only rotate at slightly different speeds, as all four wheels are rolling roughly the same, just the differences involved with turning come into play. So there is very little "dragging" of the clutches on eachother and they are lubricated....so it works. But on a dolly, If you drag the rear end along, half the discs will be spinning very fast while the other half will be totally staionary......and without a pump running there is no fluid supplied to lubricate them. the clutches will be fried in the first mile or two. DO NOT EVER EVER EVER tow an automatic trans subaru on a dolly (unless you remove the center driveline)

Swapped an SPFI wagon to Hitachi carb??? Man, what a downgrade. I'll bet the problems it had from before would have been easier to fix. At least would have been easier for us to help troubleshoot. You've swapped so much it's gonna be hard for us to know what oyu have going on. Add to that the fact that acurate wiring diagrahms for 85 and 87 are both hard to find....and both sort of oddball as compared to the 88+ stuff. Glad it's running......truth is, since you swapped it all, you will be the one with the best bet of diagnosing problems.

I can tell you for sure that 95 is an oddball year for wiring, and some other things. But definately wiring, the ECU connectors are the same, but have totatly different colors and pin locations. Alot of the engine bay wires are also different color that the 96-99 stuff. Lots of the 95 2.2s I've seen are still dual port heads, whereas the 96s have single port.......so that is definately a change to the exhaust. I personally avoid the 95 models just as I avoided the 87 model GL's. Oddballl transition years with hard to identify quirks.

I already did a write up on how to build this trans. For free. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98796&highlight=dual+range Problem is.......it will eat gears eventually....at least with EJ power through it. Also, there is only one type of early Legacy AWD spd that has the teeth count to match a standard EA 5spd. it's "possible" but not really worth it when it will blow up after a few thousand miles.

Always a way. But why? Seriously though, I think you can convert to disc brake from turbo GL or XT and use a 240 SX caliper. I think the better thing to do modifying the ebrake, is to convert to 2 seperate ebrake handles, one for each side for traction control on front wheels:grin: