Gloyale

struts front shocks rear

yup, 85 2wd, GL-10 non-turbo used MPFI 85 4wd, GL-10 Non-turbo were Carbed!!

Did you remove any of the shift forks from their rods? If so I will bet that the double pin is for one of them. Bad news. Trans will need opened up. Without, you will be not be able to get 2 gears, depending on which fork.

if you ever want to return it to stock, don't put an EJ in it. I believe you will have to notch frame rails, alter shifter linkage and floor hole, and modify fuel system, just to name a few. If you don't want to go back to stock great, but if an "original" state is ever to be achieved again don't swap it. If anything put an EA81 in it. The first gen brats are so light the EA81 will be plenty peppy in it.

white/red goes to "charge " light, not the gauge.

Check the Black/white wire at the 2 prong connector. If it is not getting 12v from IG. switch, or is a poor connection, it could be making the Alt try like hell to raise the voltage with no effect. Also, It may be a good idea to replace/add a new 10 or 8 gauge wire straight from the Main output terminal on alt to the Battery (using a 1~2 inch long piece of 8 gauge Fusible link wire at the batt end)

90-94 legacy have a star race that will fit EA axles. 95-99 legacy rears the same size and type joint, with stub attached to cup, but their star race is finer splines. So.......... you can use 96-99 cups with 90-94 legacy innard (cage, balls, star race) That combo can be swapped onto old EA series rear axles.

had this happen on 2 of my rigs. 98 forester, and 03 OBW H6. both were from malfunction of the spring loaded valve in the carbon canister. just replace the carbon canister with a new one from subaru. worked for both of mine

you need an Factory manual for your car. i will add though that most all of the switches and accesories have small "pilot" lights most of them just burn out. you should check the switch panel i would bet it has small lights in it that just arent working

deosn't have one. Subaru didn't start obd-ii until 96. You need to find the pair of black connectors under the dash and plug those toghether, and then either the CEL or a LED in the ECU will flash codes in 10's and 1's (3 long pulse, 2 short = code 32)

Subaru made a pretty good factory plate for that car. Most early EA82s had them. They only guard the sump though, not the whole engine bay. But they are good enough to keep rocks and branches away from the oil pump.

in this case, no issue. Your 93 trans uses one bell belt, and one stud in the trans for starter. This will all stay the same for you. There can be issues using newer MT trans on older engines. Newer trans the lower starter bolt is one of the 8 bell bolts, but the old blocks don't have that hole. So you would need to install a stud into the trans or otherwise modify.

that won't work. you won't have any engagement of the spine part of the shaft. it will fail and flop around. You must remove thay piece or you will NOT achieve a workable repair. use a dremel to cut it off if you have to, but it must be removed.

it should come off easily with a pair of 99 cent pliers. just grab it and rock it side to side. (not rotate, wiggle)

Because it's the same belt for both, and it's loose. I would suggest however that if you are really dropping to 8 volts when the alt belt slips, there is an issue with your battery or the fusible links. Even with belt slipping the battery should hold at at least 11.x volts with loads on for a minute or 2

+1

I like the idea, but it isn't realistic. 8 people and 8 bikes weighs ALOT. 8 x 160 lbs = 1280 8 x 45 lbs = 360 So, 1640+ lbs of cargo. That is DOUBLE what the car was rated for. Plus you're talking about hanging alot of it off the back end you would need to incorporate beefier springs and struts to have a chance of holding that weight. Plus with the addition of lift and larger tires? You won't have the power and gearing to climb any hills.

yeah I did that with several rusty Wisconsin cars. Run new lines between under seat jnction and the wheel. No need to retrieve the old line or run it in exactly the same spot. just make sure it's secure.

you are describing a re-bore not a hone. Hone is just basically a new, uniform scratching across the wall. unfortunately conventional methods yeild poor results relative to the factory hone. not needed for these rings in these engines. as long as there is not severe damage to the cylinder walls, just put new rings in it. It will be way better than the old ones. Bump up compression, stop burning oil. win win

subaru has used r160 diffs since the 70's all interchangable basically.

between throttle lever and stop screw. Measure for closed contacts of the idle switch when full against screw. then check that contacts are open when a .20mm feeler between the throttle and stop screw.

Ahh that's fine. Lightened for performance. Scuff it with some sandpaper and throw it back on there.

Yeah....uh.....that will work, but having no flex might not be good for hte MAF/airbox as it will be straing on it when engine torques. I hope you don't have a cone filter on the end of that either. those things are the worst. Hot dirty air though a glorified scotch brite pad.

I would suggest they use a diff from anything 95+ Something with the stubs on the axles that slide into the diff. Trying to make it for the older, (more popular for wheeling) hollow stub, male diffs would be more complex, since the spiders have to have threads for the bolt in stub. Hence the hollow stubs. Which are the biggest issue for subarus offroad. It would be great for any older locked 4wd, or any newer AWD automatic. It would work well on the 5mt AWD also, just won't help with front tire lift. But if you can keep the front grabbing, the back will push from both wheels no mater how much traction. I would be VERY intersted in 2 of these in 4.44 for my next T-case build (82 GL sedan)

You can drop new rings on the pistons without splitting the case. I do them on almost all my headgasket jobs now. Any engine with over 150k benefits from a fresh set of rings. I would slap new rings and new headgaskets on it and go. It will last a long time still. The rods and mains on these engines are very robust for the 90 hp the make.