Gloyale

Power for the injectors should come from the ignitin relay, not from the ECU. The ECU simply controls the ground side of the circuit for firing. Locate the wire for the CEL out of the ECU, and hook it to your CEL in the dash. (or power a lightbulb and hook ground side to CEL wire of ECU) The CEL should then light whenever the ECU is energized, telling you that it is functioning.

I'm not knocking the process at all. In fact, I am a big proponent of these strut swaps. Sorry, didn't mean to put anybody down, or suggest that this swap shouldn't be done. Do it.....you'll love it. But it's a strut upgrade.........not a lift.

With one cam dot up, and one down, the the timing marks should not be visible at all. What should be visible are the 3 belt alignment marks (3 hashmarks with no #s) When the center mark is lined up with the arrow on the bell, the cams should be one up, one down. Sooooo.....let's try it this way..........rotate the engine until "0" TDC mark lined up with the arrow on the bell, and drivers side "dot" down and out at at 45 degree, and the passenger side up and out at a 45 degree. Once you've got it like that, install the disty with the rotor pointing at #1 cylinder. that should get you to basic timing. Adjust with a light from there.

Yeah, it used to be I on;y had to add the relay and/or pushbutton start to early EA series subarus. But recently, as time has gone by and the first EJ cars are 20 years old now, I've had to install relays on a few. The my theory at this point is the wiring is degrading and has reduced amprage capacity. I used to think it was ignition switches, but I've replaced a few with no change. Same with connectors and terminals. Seems the on;y thing left is the OE wiring getting old. Anyhow....yeah.....add a relay......triggered by a pushbutton if you like.......but either way will solve the problem.

Install a relay Power from battery Triggered by original solenoid wire done.

Don't listen to this. The starter is not bad, there just isn't enough amps. It happens alot that there will be voltage when measured on that wire. But in practical application there isn't enough Amp capacity to actually run the starter. See my above post about adding a relay. Add the relay, and you'll never have this starting issue again.

Add a fused power wire to the battery. run that wire to a relay, and out of the relay to the starter. Use the original starter wire to trigger the coil of the relay. You'll need to ground the other pole of the relay. This will work.

You probably did blow a fuse or have a short. Your lights aren't working. turning on that switch is making the lights work, but you shouldn't need to do that. I'm guessing that one of the headlight relays or fuses is to blame, as the running lights are powered off of one of the headlight relays.

I think it's a 95-99 non-outback Legacy bumper

Look, I wasn't trying to step on anyones toes. But there are literally a handful of truely lifted EJ series cars around. Lot's of strut swaps. But on;y a few true lifts. I was merely emphasizing the point that swapping struts is VERY simple and basically an afternoon job. It's changing parts......not lifting. Building and installing a lift is more complicated, I only am trying to emphasize that point. As someone who has actually built several kits now for EA and EJ cars......mostly EJs......I find it hard to hear others talk about how many lifts they've done......when really they are just talking about swapping struts......it's day and night differences.

yes and yes

I had this same problem recently with my 5spd swap. I would suggest using an EA82 Flywheel. The EA81 flywheel is about 8mm thicker. (extra meat on the crank mating area) Moves the friction face and the whole Disc/PP assembly closer to the trans. This leaves very little room for the Throwout bearing between the PP and the trans. Also, the EA81 Pressure plate fingers don't mate well to the EA82 throwout bearing.

Spend you're Thousand dollars on a good used 2.2 liter for your Outback. rent an engine hoist. install. Done. Cheaper and 100x more reliable than a GL. oh yeah........get the GL for $200 bucks and put the Dual Range trans into your outback:grin:

Yep....they'll bolt right in. It's the trailing arm mounting bracket that is different, and can be swapped for the outback one if you so desire. (works fine without, but if you swap then the wheel can drop a bit further a and it will be a little more centered in the wheel well)

Spend a buck and get O-rings for the coolant crossover pipe. 1- 9/16" x 1/8" Orings from any auto parts store will work.

Should have spent the extra cash to have the heads milled. Heck....that is probably still you're cheapest option. Tear is back down and fix it right. Pressure test the heads, shave them, use subaru head gaskets, and it should be fine.

I disagree. Swapping struts is swapping struts. If it ends up higher after so be it. But that isn't "lifting" a subaru in my book. A true lift is more than just struts, or even strut spacers. But this is a sidepoint, and not terribly helpful to the poster so I'm gonna end it at that. Outback or Forrester struts would be a great swap for this poster.

Your thinking sounds right to me.

Yes there is a pressure sensor in the ECU for altitude compensation. But I repeat.....there is never a time when that is supposed to be hooked up to the engine. It is an internal piece of the ECU. Not sure what it will really do to the engine managment when hooked up to the intake. But it definately isn't supposed to need to be that way.

You mean you swapped struts. A true "lift" is much more involved. Requires adding blocks to the subframe. Just clarifying.

Year and model would help us give more info.

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Clean out the contacts on the master switch. Espescially the "lockout" button. All the grounds for every window run through that contact, and when it gets all covered in carbon it stops working.

Here's the main vacuum system Ignore the "ditch this" and here's the Air bleed for the carb...I made some notes about bypassing it if the vavle is screwed....but you can ignore that.