Gloyale

The square slow blow fuses that are in the later legacies and alot of newer cars will work in the old GL fusible link holder. All you need to do is notch out the center portion of the fuse and it slips rigth into the holder. Bye-bye old wire type fusinble link......hello Slow blowing fuse (that you can buy at any parts store)

4 spds have a long skinny extension housing on the back. The pivot for the shifter is on this extension. Also if it's a 4spd dual range, the dual range rod will run along the drivers side of the trans. If it's a 5spd, it'll be shorter, not as skinny at the back end, and the dual range rod runs down the passenger side

check the driveshaft U-joints

FWIW, there is a neat and easy trick to plugging the ASV pipes. And best part is it only costs 50 cents. Simply unscrew the large stainless pipe from the boxes on the back of the engine. Shove a quarter in the hole, and thread the pipe back on. The rubber hoses and plastic silencer box can all be removed. In the past I've brazed closed the pipes, or made block off plates.....But really the quarters is the quickest way.

Whiny when under load. there will be a "sweet spot" at light throttle where you won't here it IF you are hearing it, the gears are gone. Have the bellhousing, and the pump removed. The new pinion gets the new bearing pressed in. then fit a new ring gear onto the diff. All in all, I'd say about $500 in seals, gaskets, and of course the gears and bearings. Labor could be anywhere from $500-1500 depending on where you get it done. Are you anywhere near Corvallis OR?

The VC can be replaced with the trans in the car. It's pretty easy....just expensive unless you got another junker trans around you can scavenge from.

Damn....I scrapped an 87 with good headlights yesterday.

I don't think he fried anything. He isn't hooking the tach siganl from the EJ ECU to the old coil.....just to the wire that went to it. Corvette, I think you need to download a good FSM scan. Locate the excact wires needed. the rest of you're issues sound power supply related.....(common power is the only thing ALL 4 injectors share)

Don't think it will work. The EA82 axles are too long, even with the EA82 arms on there. Jbbvw was right, it has more to do with the mounting points of the arms than the length of the arm itself. Guess I'll just have to keep mounting up Legacy and EA82 inner rear cups onto my old axles. As long as the shafts hold up, I can replace joints all day.

To clarify, you can't simply swap the front diff. the Ring gear must match the Pinion. You would need to use the entire pinion from a trans with a different ratio. And since a few of the gears are casr into the pinion, you're limited to using ones that have the same ratio gearsets. Every tooth counts:rolleyes:

sorry to throw you off. Talk of TCU chages is relative to Autos. I thought you were talking about trying to use a 4.44 auto. ....with the 5mt should be no problems.

OK...let's try again. You know where the original engine harness plugs are? And where the Original coil was mounted? Right behind the battery? That is the area and the connectors I am talking about. you need to search around adn get a good diagrahm and I.D. the wires. Hooking random power and grounds up is NOT going to help anything.

Large bolts 30 Ft/Lbs Smaller bolts 22 Ft/Lbs don't know where you got 49 from, that's too high.

Ok....actually since FSM doesn't have wire colors on the sensor itself....let's try this again using the Body Harness side of the connector and match that. So it would be like this: Body <> New Sensor White <> Black (signal wire) Yellow w/red <> white (heater power) Black w/white <> white (heater ground)

There are basically two approaches. depending on where you want to make the connections. If you want to avoid taking hte dash out, you can make all the connections in the engine bay via the existing enigne wiring. --Tach wire from ECU can be connected to the yellow wire that used to run from dash to distributor. --Temp wire can be found in the original engine harness. *a 270 ohm resistor wired to ground in parallel to the sender will correct the range* --Oil pressure wre also can be found in that harness. *The wire can be hooked to the EJ dummy light sender....gauge will read "zero" while driving and peg to 90 psi if the "NO OIL" light would be on in EJ setup* Or you can locate the wires on the back of the dash and hook it up there. In that case you'll want to identify the wires where they go into the back of the cluster. either way you will need to reference FSM diagrahms for respective connector to determine wire colors and pins. But it shoulds like you've got a good start.

It will bolt up yes. Forrester Axles should work fine. I think you're 95 Lego axles should still actually work with the 4.44 diff from Forrester or Outback (03+ are Vlsd) Problem is in the wiring TCU's The phase II trans has at least one more sensor, and a different valve body, etc....... so I would think you would need to wire in a Forrester (or outback or other pahse II) TCU. But maybe just maybe you could get the Phase II tcu to run the new trans? I wouldn't be the one to ask about making that happen, the configurationsare too different. Maybe someone who understands the software end of things could do it. Oh....and also the trans are different lengths so different driveline may be needed.

you wired the signal wire to the heater circuit. old NEW Red Black White White Black White * edited......better chart bellow*

You need a disty from a Carbed EA82 I've got one, from a running car. I could ship ya cheap if you want. PM me

one of your PCV hoses is not connected.

O-ring on the return drain from the crankcase baffle area.

99 is the newer trans with a different type of center diff. There is a slight diference in overall length.....maybe want to measure and make sure the driveline and shifter will still work.

This is probably because you've damaged the rear output engagement collar or the gear or both. When you use the 4wd on pavement, espescially with mismatching tires, you create alot of stress in the drivetrain as the front and back try to turn different amounts. That built up stress releases in that "pop" when you take it out of 4wd. It's pretty simple. Use the 4wd in gravel, mud, snow, or even heavy rain(standing water)..............and you will not have any binding. Use it on pavement, or forget to disengage it before leaving mud, gravel, etc...... and you will have the resulting pop. Or worse yet, it may fail to disengage someday (had it happen on my first subaru, stuck in 4wd)

You will need rear tophats that fit your 90 Legacy. Tophats from a 95+ won't fit without drilling new holes in the body, which can be hard to do and keep them centered and not throw off camber. good luck.....I';ve never seen anyone use OB struts with functioning air ride setup.

gonna sound dumb, but....... do you have the fuel lines reversed? I'm just throwing out guesses

Believe whatever you want, but....... Your car is NOT AWD. And yeah, using the 4wd on pavement will cause all kinds of stress and eventually damage things in your trans and certainly will be hard on your axles. A bit of a pop when disengaging is kinda normal........but will always be more prominent if you have stress in the drvetrain. I always make sure to disengage my 4wd before I leave the low traction (gravel, snow) and get back on pavement. That way there isn't any binding of the drivetrain.