Gloyale

You won't have to modify the "chassis" so to speak. You could probably almost directly bolt in an EA81, with a late 4spd D/R without any real problems. Then bolt SPFI onto that motor. With a little crossmember and linkage mods, you could put in an EA82 5spd. With an adapter plate and redrilled flywheel, you could bolt an EJ engine to either of those trans. Or you could go with an EJ engine and a EJ AWD transmission, but at that point you end up needing custom axles. Search and read about all the differnet projects people have done here and you will get more of an idea.

12 mm, 1/4" drive socket on a ratchet with a swivel head is the best tool for getting the 4 TC bolts out. Or just pull the intake....it takes only a few extra minutes, then you can get them with any old ratchet or impact. to seat the TC, hold the nub in the center with your finger, and then spin the TC till it seats. It should end up almost flush with the bell housing.

And also the tank won't have large enough return lines. I am running into this on an 81 model.....the vent line I used as a return is small. seems to be making the fuel pressure higher than it should be (regulator can't dump off enough excess to keep the presusre down) Changed how I had it hooked up a bit the other day. We'll see how it goes....but yeah..... Don't be discouraged.....FI is possible, even without a VSS the FI will work fine. And with a brat, it would be easy to just put a tank in the bed if the vent/return line issue comes up.

I'm planning on doing it this week before the WCSS. In my case, I already have an EA82 front subrame and arms, so my front is wider than the back. I currently have different offset rims front and back to match the track widths. I am hoping the swap of the EA82 arms onto the back works easily, and will widen up my rear track. The biggest things I've noticed in preparation so far is that the bolt holes on the EA81 subframe will need to be enlarged for the larger EA82 pivot. Also I am not sure how the bump stop action will work out. Because there is no coilover on the EA81 to limit uptravel, bump stops are essential to keep the inner joint from overextending when the wheel is compressed (hill climbs) Do you have trailing arms for your project? I've got a set if you want em. I'm sure you've got something subaru to trade. (I'll take the H6....lol) PM me

Pull the Distributor connector. No CAS signal = no spark or fuel Then pull all plugs, and hold throttle open.

I'd get a 95-99 regular Legacy. Already got a 2.2. And then put outback struts on it. ......Alternately, I'd get an 96-99 Outback, swap in a early, dual port exhaust 2.2 (hows the engine in your 91?) Then I could make you some 1 or 2 inch spacers for the tops of the Outback struts. (1 inch would out CV's at mild angle....2 inch would max out at full droop, but work)

Did he drain the Trans, and fill the Front diff with ATF?

$100 labor to change a EJ subaru Axle is rediculous. In a shop with air tools....It takes 20 mins....literally. I charge $60 and feel like I'm gettting over on 'em.

only OE 85 and 86 shocks have the adjustable spring perch. But you can buy a new set of shocks, and use you're old perch flipped over under new one for a spacer to get another 3/4 inch.

It is definately the tank that comes with the kit for the cruise. It's the vacuum reserve tank (factory cruise used an electric pump) I think in later years they changed the size of the and shape of the tank. I remember you talking about you're cruise not holding vacuum on the highway..........perhaps it was because of the lack of the tank as a reservior for the system? Yeah.....i have actually seen that tank installed on a turbo car......caught on fire when the wastegate failed and the turbo got hot.

No......Forresters and Imprezas kept the same rear end setup through '07 or '08 (whenever the current bodies came out) up to then, they share the same setup as the first and second gen Legacies. There are a few variations to sway bar set-up and strut lengths, springs, tophats....etc....but the bodies and subframes are the same. ('03 or '04 they added a beefy bar that runs laterally from the front of the A arm mount back to the frame rails:grin:, but that is just a bolt on) Legacy rear ends changed drastically in '00. Legacy body changed again in '05.....but near as I can tell the rear end subframe actually stayed the same. I haven't measured every bolt on the '05+ but it appears to be the same as the '00-'04. Watcha working on Scott?

If you go this route....all you need is the manifold. You will have to swap you're wiring harness onto the DOHC manifold. engine will run fine off the original forrester/sohc electronics....but as mentioned.....you will have issues with the IAC. On the SOHC...the IAC is on the throttle body. Will run without it, but may have to give it a bit of gas on startup and warm it up for a few seconds before it will idle right. Oh....and plug wires......you'll have to swap the coil ends from you're SOHC wires onto a set of DOHC ones. (Male vs. Female coil towers respectively).

I is not too hard to pull the SOHC heads off and swap the pistons and Heads from the SOHC into/onto the DOHC. Swappin pistons is the hardest part. But can be done without splitting the cases. OR.......pull the heads and repair the valves....... And honestly, have you put a belt back on it and tried a compression test? I've been lucky with a few SOHCs that have broken belts, but not bent vavles. Definately worth hanging an old belt on it and testing compression/ test running it.

I've been looking and looking. I don't even think the 3.9 FT4wd would work. Swapping in the low range would be easy. But to convert to 3.9 from 3.7 you have to swap pinion shafts. well, 3rd and 4th gears are cast into the shaft.....and I don't believe will match between the FT4wd and standard tranny's because of the gearing differences. Possibly if you could swap the 3rd and 4th gear set on the upper shaft, and the 1 adn 2 gearsets on the lower shaft........but still the lower shaft is totally different on the FT (bigger diameter, shaft in shaft) so I don't think it will work. One new possibility to doing at least an AWD 4.11 has come up. I actually made one of these before. It worked, but the meshing of 1 and 2 gears was a bit off. I used an 86 GL D/R for the case and upper shaft. It chewed up gears after 500 miles. Now recently, I opened up an 89 D/R. ("lo" switch on the right side of trans instead of in car) It seemed to have a gear cut that more closely matched the cut of the EJ gears. I want to build another 4.11 D/R using one of these last year of production D/R upper shafts. Anybody want to donate an 89 D/R? :

I love that even though you don't make peak torque until 4500rpm, you are over 300 ft/lbs already at 3000rpm. More horses at 3000rpm than you used to have at 6000rpm Nice:grin:

They are M8 x 1.25 like most subaru M8s' but here is the thing........ you need the ones with the short heads. That's probably why the ones on there broke in the first place. Someone probably used ones with too tall a head, and they hit the inside of the casing.

Yeah........try the brakes after you:lol:have big Mud tires on there...........might be more like a quarter.

Coil plug is the same as the Cam sensor and the A/C plug is the same as the Crank Sensor

Hoping you will be at the Show this year. I need a 2200 sticker for my 89 GL and another 1800 for my 84 (EJ18:grin:)

Pics?????? Kinda doesn't mean anything without pics

Lifts still available. I could make a spacer for the rear of the 00+ outbacks to lift the rear end. PM me for any requests, info. Lifts are available for all models, in any size. Since I don't have an unlimited amount of cars to experiment with, I can't tell you details of tires sizes, etc. But the Two inch lift on the 03 Outback H6 has not caused any driving issues. taller lifts will drop the subframe relative to the tops so should be no issue. (these new ones aren't rally much different than the old ones overall)

nice car. My favorite color for that body. Shame you are painting it.

Compresion test won't show anything. Subaru HGs leak without fully "blowing out" and losing compression.

95-99 Impreza with either engine 2.2 or 1.8 should be 3.9 final drive. though the 1.8 cars have a slightly lower 5th gear so you probably want one from a 2.2 liter for tallest possible gearing.

keep it and wheel it. You won't be disappointed. Finding a good brat is getting hard, and if you find a good one it'd be a shame to beat it up wheeling. you got the wagon.......roll with it. If you need more power put a EJ in it and you won't have any issues.......the little wagons are pretty light compared to any other type of wheeler.