Gloyale

No way this is an alternator issue. Ignitor. On the back side of the engien bay....top center. Any one from any 90-99 legacy or Impreza will work. They are ussually in cars at Junkyards even if the engine is not. Also, check the wiring for the Cam and Crank sensors. But if you want to throw parts try the ignitor first.

I'm not sure.....looks like a plunger type solenoid.......might be part of a variable vavle timing setup? Is there anything like that on the passenger side? I would suggest pulling the rear timing cover plate to get a better look at what that is activating. Also perhaps pull the valve covers and see if there are any differences in the vavle/Cam set-up. I am pretty unfamiliar with the '05+ stuff

If the TC wasn't seated properly last time it was installed, and was just squeezed tight between the engien and trans, it could have just been friction holding tight to the engine.....of course if that happened...the pump is trashed. I would highly suggest pulling the TC out of the trans and inspecting the pump drive tube for any signs of heat or obvious damage. Replace those split ring seals on the tube when you reinstall. Dealers ussually have them in stock for a few bucks.

trans mount. tail kicks up under load in reverse.

trapped air

If it's MPFI it has a seperate coolant crossover pipe with o-rings. And I would suggest replacing those. Could be where your water is going. If it's carbed, it looks to me from you're pics that the crossover is in the intake.....Either way the O-rings are the same on the block....replace them and check all the radiator and heater and throttle body coolant hoses. Gotta rule that stuff out before assuming headgasekts on a 2.2

If you're using a 95 intake, you shouldn't need to swap TBs. (same TPS as the 25) Just plug the EGR solenoid in electrically......leave all the rest of the EGR stuff off.

Seriously man............you will save time pulling the engine.

Uhhh..........What? There aren't any hoses to hook to the ECU or even a MAP sensor on the first gen ECU's? What was the donor car? There's an altitude pressurte sensor in there, but it doesn't hook up to the motor?

BAckwards. .780 is taller than .871 so it appears that the outbacks do have a lower 5th gear.

Cruise control actually varies the throttle quite a bit. Sure, on flat ground it's fairly steady. But on rolling hills, it ussually either stabs the gas or lets off entirely to try to keep an exact speed. it would actually be more effiecint to hold a dead steady throttle, and let the speed vary as you go up and down hills. That said........perhaps larger tires would help you after all. Of course your speedo wouldn't say you where going faster.....so you'd have to just learn that 67 on the dash means 75 in real speed. oh.......almost forgot.......why are you driving long distances at 80 MPH in New York? J/K

Or use older 90-94 heads, or complete engine. Dual ports bolt right up. They catch to that way of doing the swap is you must transfer the EJ25 enigne/intake portion of the wirng harness onto the 2.2 manifold. Also, as I found today, you need to swap Throttle bodies (not needed using 95+ motor) in order to use the correct TPS. And in an attempt to keep CELs at bay, I switched over the EGR solenoid, although it's not hooked to anything....no EGR...ports on the throttle body capped. But really, it all prestty easy......Just did this swap today. 90 ej22 into a 97 outback. no cels........yet

+1

Phase I pistons have a different notching setup, and come "proud" out of the block. You will have tgo swap in the Phase II pistons or the valves will hit. Actually, with the thinner Phase II HGs the pistons may contact the head. I know because I literally did this swap this week.

check the condition of the wires goin into the Crank and Cam sensor plugs. I recently went batty trying to get a swap to run right, until I found the crank sensor wires worn though to a single strand. you can test the Cam sensor wirng by simply unplugging the cam sensor while it's running. it will default to "limp" mode....which actually will make the car run better if the Cam wiring is the problem.

So it runs GREAT.......tons of torque, seems quick even for a lifted rig with big tires. No idle Air valve so it takes a bit of manual warm up, but runs great after that. So once again, Subaru=LEGO:grin:

Little metal lines to throttle? I think you are confusing the small coolant hoses that run to the throttle base for vac hose. they are coolant lines, and the 2.2 will have them as well.

he's talking about doing a 2.5 to 2.2 swap. Intakes don't interchange.

No, there is no physical difference in the blocks other than the 4 extra bellhousing holes on your 99 2.5. you will not need to swap any wiring on the car You don't need to swap computers. Basically, all you need is to take the intake off both engines, and swap over your original wiring onto the new 2.2 intake. Might need to swap the vent solenoid from you're car if the wiring won't plug into the 2.2 solenoid. Also, possibly the coolant crossover pipe(which you should pull and put new o-rings under anyhow). 99 2.5 may have the 3 pin, combined gauge and ECU temp sensor which you'll need to retain. Basically you need to match the wiring to the car onto the new engine. (tip: use a 1+9/16 x 1/8th inch O-ring for the crossover. you can get the subaru ones from the dealer for 5 bucks each............or get a pack from the auto parts store for less than 50 cents a piece)

you are too used to american engines. 3500 RPMS at 75 is perfect for that engine. You wont save gas by going to a taller ratio because you wil have to open the throttle more to keep the speed.....see what I mean? It's kinduv a misconception that higher RPMs = worse mileage. It all about the throttle angle. Steady foot at 3500 rpms will beat stabbing the gas over and over to keep the same speed at 2500 rpms Subies, like all boxer motors, like to run over and make their best power and economy between 3K and 5k rpms

Lack of available cost effective Phase II bottom end solution. I have in my shop, two good Phase II blocks, 5 usable rods, and ZERO good cranks (i have 3 cranks but all have bad rod bearing problems costing $ to fix) The Phase I block w/ low miles and a good bottom end presented itself as a cheaper and easier solution than a $300+ dollar crank, bearings, and rings. We had already made our adapted phase II manifold (soldered injector connectors from forrester onto legacy harness, phase I legacy throttle body/w adapter plate) And also we really wanted to use the SOHC heads for offroad reliability. the SOHC can slip a few teeth and not bend valves.....slighlty less vulnerable. Also, the DOHC pistons come out of the block at the top of there stroke, SOHC heads use a thin gasket, and it seemed risky. SOHC pistons on the phase I block come up just to the deck face, and have notches that match the heads. Valves are at a different angle, and different sizes. As well, the SOHC valves are further to the edge of the combustion chamber. It really seemed like they would hit the valves even if in time.

Backstory: We've been planning to put a Phase II SOHC 2.5 in my bro's lifted Legacy for a while now. Finally got around to doing it. Put her in and the engine was knocking like the hammers of Thor. great, engine we bought is a pile of garbage. And the crank is toast, and the other crank we have is toast. O.K. so we buy a good Phase I DOHC engine with bent valves. Go to swap over heads, and looking at where the valve notches are on the different pistons it looks like the DOHC pistons will hit the SOHC vavles. So we swap the SOHC pistons into the block. They don't rise as far out of the cylinder...hmm...well we will see how it goes. So we done it now. Phase I block, Phase II pistons and Heads. Phase II intake with orignal to car EJ22 throttle body, coil, and harness mounted to it. Not sure how it will run once we fire it up. Got the heads on and putting it in the car today. I just thought I'd let ya'll make some predictions today and I'll report after it's in and running.

excactly, the EJ18 heads have the EGR port in them. And they are relatively easy to find, as opposed to the rare EJ22 w/ EGR.

Screw it back in until it gets just snug. Then do the other side. Leave the Axles off the stubs. Once you have done this, if you havent yet, drain all the gear oil. reach you're finger in the drain hole, and use you're finger to rock the ring gear back and forth. You should have between .10mm -.15mm backlash. Which feels like barely a little wiggle. If there is a big clunk, move the drivers side cup in, and the passengers out Each by just one notch. If there is no bakclash, then you need to do the opposite, move the drivers side out, and the passenger side in. remember, you want just a tiny little bit of wiggle.

this can happen even with the correct rotor/caliper combo. There are sheet metal clips supposed to be in there (6 per caliper:rolleyes:) that are mostly missing now on these cars that help with that problem. Doesn't ussually happen till the pad get's very thin.