Gloyale

I would say swap the 2.5 harness onto the EJ18 intake. EJ18s have EGR's Hey.....that might work for solving the EGR issue on the 2.2 swaps as well:rolleyes:

Nope sorry.......You guys are thinking of the autos. The 5MT has a constant engagement through a center differential. Front and rear wheels recieve equal power. My guess is that you're front struts are blown and the car is lifting under acceleration.

Cracked heads is the problem I have run into the most with these. They crack in the exhaust port, and coolant poors out and a into the turbo as steam. Ruins the turbo. Loses coolant and overheats. I've had a couple heads welded, only to have them crack again. Hate to say it....but you may want to move to the modified class, or run an Impreza or legacy rather than an older GL/RX/XT

That isn't the stock size for a loyale. Stock is 185/70/13 and they will fit. 185/80/13 will fit and give you a little extra height....but that size is hard to find anymore, and makes handling suck. I'd say a good set of 185/70/13s are the way to go. or maybe a 205/60/13:grin: if you want better handling and a bit lower ride.

You could buy a truely rust free Brat out west, and have it shipped to you for less than that price. Might even find one with less miles too (145k isn't exactly low, although it's not terribly high either) Fact is, if it's got any visible rust AT ALL......it will continue as cancer and eventually will rot. $5000 is WAAAY too much to pay for a brat with any rust at all. Espescially since it's not a "low miles" car. It will have lot's of things needing replaced to be any sort of regular driver (wheel bearings, strut mounts, tierods, etc....) I'd say $3000 tops. You could find better Brats for 5k

this just isn't true. Fuel pump and Alternator don't have any connection. The ECU switches on the FP relay, and then will only keep it running if it sees a signal from the disty.....which if the car runs at all....it's getting. ALL the power for the fuel pump comes from the Fuel pump relay. If his car starts and runs....that isn't the problem. I am gonna say it's a MAF issue or a Vacuum issue. Check all the vacuum lines.....check all the PCV lines....make sure nothing is unhooked.

The only thing different about the 99 engine as compared with the 96-98 is the extra holes in the bellhousing. You could use any DOHC 2.5 if you like. Let me ask, is you're car a manual or an Automatic. if it's an automatic, you won't have any issue with missing starter bolts (the bottom bolt is a stud in the trans bell) But if you really want a 2.2 you are gonna want to get an early one....95 or older. Later ones will have a single port exhaust....(so you'd need the exhaust y-pipe from donor car....which most yards don't sell) Swap over you're wirng harness from the 2.5 onto the 2.2 and you're done. You will have a code for EGR though because the 2.2 doesn't have an EGR circuit. other option as mentioned is swap you're heads and intake onto a 2.2 block.....which will work.....but will yield power loss. Where are you located that a rebuilder won't touch it? That would really be the best bet for the long run.

I agree with Chux. The only thing the TCU needs as far as engine wiring is a Tach signal, VSS and TPS signal. All of which could be spliced in easily. Other than that, the trans wiring is all seperate. Provide it with power and ground and go. The wiring for the P/N lockout and all the other indicators is all on the side of the trans in one switch assembly. Might take some careful studying to ID all the wires......hook up the Reverse lights, and the mate the Manuals Neutral switch wiring to the N position of the selector.....and if you want to go all out rewire the Clutch safety lockout to the P/N lockout circuit (seperate from neutral indicator) If you aren't concerned with having an indicator display on the dash, you shouldn't even need to mess around up there. Oh and ground the wire for the AT identification on the ECU.

Thing under the dash that looks like a VR is a Pulse Amplifier for the A/C Relays and Fuse are for the A/C and the A/C fan relay. the things in the above picture are solenoids from a Feedback carb model......I don't think that you're car has them.

Open center diff. Car will go nowhere if you pull the driveline.

that is what the reed style VSS in a cable driven dash does. The later VSS generates an AC voltage.....that AC voltage is transformed into a square wave by a circuit inside the gauge cluster, then the "translated" signal is passed on to the ECU.

Yes it does. And here in lies the problem. The Speedo head takes the signal from the speed sensor. It uses it to drive the gauge display, and also reprocesses it as a simple square wave, and sends that data out to the ECU. (the ECU still reads a simple square wave, which is why you can hook new ECUs up to old reed style VSS in conversions and it works) This can be seen by looking at the Wiring diagrahms. The wires from the VSS to the speedo are twisted and shielded. then there is another wire that goes from there to the ECU. That wire is a simple wire, no twisted pair, no shielding. The signal is not in parrallel, it is in series. Replace the speedo head....it is not converting or passing the signal though properly to the ECU.

Take it out. The least that you need to replace is the Torque Converter extension tube. You likelty need to replace the pump as well. Prolly cheaper to get a whole used unit.

the red legacy did have a an experimental, AWD, 4.11 D/R in it. But there was something wrong with the mesh of the gears. Blew up second in about 500 miles. The car now has a standard part time, 3.9 D/R from a GL in it. (stubs swapped to 25 spline to mate to legacy axles)

Fuses and fusible link wire are you're friend

Bingo Looking again I'm pretty sure that goes on the upper, front AC compressor bolt and holds the far end of the AC belt cover.

A) are you sure you got a trans of the correct gear ratio? Is it full of new fluid? C) if yes to A and B, the new trans probably has worn side gear bearings and could be wearing the R+P gears. That doesn't mean doom....just means it might get worse over time. Louder, but not likely to leave you stranded.

looks like the mount for the MAP sensor and swithching solenoid.....kinda anything look missing between the air cleaner and the strut tower? the bolt part does look like Subaru threads.

check the inspection plate at the bottom of the motor. I had one of those get buggered and stop the enigne from rotatitng. But actually, I hate to say you may have trashed you're pump.

you'd have to weld up the spiders on the center diff to use an EJ trans. Or possibly stuffing S/R guts and tailsection from an EA into an EJ case. EJ engine and trans will weight about 650 lbs. with all intake, exhaust manifold, and fluids.

81's are kinda funny animals. I would suggest getting it, and plan on getting a weber. The SPFI and EJ conversions are great....and a good plan for the future. IN my experience though there is a lot about the 81's that make them less than desirable for FI conversion....notably the lack of a VSS in the dash, the lack of a return line to the tank.(you can use the vent line, but it's undersized), and lastly an odd fusible link setup at the battery and old glass tube fusebaox mean lot's of electrical upgrades to make it all work well. It can definately be done, but if you can throw a weber on it for less than 500 you'll be happier and driving it sooner. A buck fifty is a steal on a solid EA 4wd body....I'd grab it and as I said throw a weber on it. For FI, the 82+ rigs are easier.

Driain the oil, all the sludge is up on the top or in the very bottom of the pan the dipstick doesn't reach. May have just popped a plug.....or started leaking at one of em........I've had a rash of trouble with those recently. Plugs in the head inside the valve cover. Replace and seal those puppies any time you have a head off. My theory: Steel plug + Alum. block x 25 years of Corrosoin = leaks Or you may have blown a headgasket.....or both.....if the coolant leaks into the oil, raise the oil level to the point liquids are sucked into the PCV port= raised compression(slight hydrolock)= popped HG.

If it is a FWD car it will be an SPFI, EA82. Careful though, cause if it's 4wd....it will be carbed. either way, axles, seats, tailights....all interchange as most other stuff will. The notable diffeerneces in the 87 SPFI are the main engine to harness connectors are different shape. Also the disty connector is different, but can be easily repinned to match the 90 ECU and harness. Other than that IIRC it's all the same. if it's carbed basically nothing of the fuel system or engine electronics will transfer over. Longblock interchagnes easily(basically identical)

Blend door cable has come loose from the lever. Remove the control unit and reseat or replace the cable.

ABS ring is in the hub on you're lego. Pop the ring off the WRX axles and throw them in. Should be fine as long as you get hte wider control arms too. I have also heard that WRX sedan have a wider track.