Gloyale

Hopefully the lack of a bevel on the IMP ring gear, for the D/R shift collar, won't interfere with anything. Or at least swapped over the ring gear onto the IMP chunk. I would have used the original D/R's front diff and just swapped axle stubs. I've learned to be wary of mix and matching gears that have already been meshed for millions of rotations toghether. Also with a new ring gear in there I hope you rechecked the endplay and lash adjustment. Don't mean to be a downer......just keep your fingers crossed and I'd suggest changing the fluid every few hundred miles for the first thousand or so. Watch it for signs of wear.....and adjust the diff if needed. That is the Dual range shift mechanism. the 4wd engagement is in the rear extension. But we get waht you mean. those little sliders and springs are a beaaach to get back toghether when they pop. Overall nice work and love the pics. Hopefully everything goes smooth for you. Got any pics of the trans crossmemeber and mounting?

If your loyale isn't a turbo, it is SPFI. Only turbo Loyales were MPFI. The 87 SPFI parts will all work with your car, though you'll have to swap a few connectors for some parts.

<<<<kicks self repeatedly for not being there>>>>>

The lockout was added as per federal laws in 93 (IIRC) If yours isn't working, then the solenoid is prolly bad. Remove the cover for the shifter. you'll have to remove the two screws from the shifter handle, and the ones around the edge of the plastic, then it lifts off. Inside, you will see a small plunger and solenoid. Now you can either try to replace it.....never looked into that option......or, you can simply wrap a ziptie around the lever it actuates, and zip it down. that way you'll be able to move the shifter anywhere you want all the time. Getting it back toghether is a bit tricky, gotta fish the 4wd wires around and make sure they won't get pinched, and don't flip otu if the button and spring pop out of the lever. Simply slide it all back in and stiff it on the shaft and it'll be fine.

if you look carefully at the SPFI and MPFI pumps, there is a small cone shaped screen that sits in the inlet. It's possible and advisable to carefully pry that thing out and clean it. Reinstall before installing the pump, but otherwise......no prefilter needed.

You arfe probably gonna have amssive camber issues by doing it that way. the end of the strut is trying to be much further "out" away from the car because of the extra length. You may need to try to move the strut tops inward to get it correct. To get it all bolted up, try undoing the control arm pivot bolt and the sway bar and get hte whole knuckle to swing down a bit more. Watch teh brake line, you probably need to move it down too.

I would suggest running the wiring through the big rubber oval in back corner of the engine bay, rather thant hte AC holes. as for the VSS, there is a two pole connector, with a yellow/red, and a black wire, way up under the drivers side of the dash, near where the vacuum line and wiper wiring runs into the enigne bay. it's up there, I;ve located it for dealer cruise installation. Tach output get run over to the tach original tach wire, which would be the yellow one that goes to the negative side of the coil.

I'd say 8" wider is a pretty massive jump. As for CV's and topheavy.......pshaaawww....... I say do a cheap lift and get a deeper offset rim. And then wait at the bottom of the trails you are too wide to go up. seriously, though give it a shot....love to see it. perhaps with some nitrogen shockes adn longer arms you could make it a good dune jumper.

I could see it leaking coolant into the oil, but not the other way around. There is no oil at the top of the block. And they don't fail really. If it did, you'd have to remove the heads and redo the headgaskets to split the case to get at it anyhow.

mostly true. But early black ECU's (86, 87) have two wires swapped for the disty. Signal and Reference wires are swapped pins. this can be gotten around by simply switching the pins at the disty. Easier than swapping pins on the ECU plugs. ideally you want an 88 or 89 ECU And FWIW, auto belts were optional since 88.....mostly found on FWD models but listed as optional for all. Standard after 90:)

Definately helps to remove the fan shroud first. 4 bolts and it slides up and out. tight fit, but it will come out.

The only real differences in the wirng between 90 and 92 is the connectors at the engine. MAF, Ignitor, and everything else should be the same. Ideally, you shouldn't have cut any of those ground wires so they should be grounded by the engine harness. The grounds at the ECU should already be tied into the engine harness, and should be grounded onto the intake manifold. If in doubt about a ground, first test it for continuity to ground, if it has none, just solder it to the big shiny black wire in the harness, as all pretty much all those black wires tie toghether and ground to hte engine block. there are a couple of shielded wires that may be black, but it's pretty obvious by the web of splicing which the grounds are. Have you checked that you have power to the yellow wires that power the ignitor, IAC, etc....?

I recently swapped a 96 EJ22 into my 89 GL. After some good long local drives, I deemed it ready for its maiden cross country voyage (the car has been cross country many times, but this is the first time with the EJ engine) Trip was from my home in Corvallis, OR....to the small towns of Emporium and Clearfield PA. On the way there, we detoured down through Kansas to pick up a friend and give him a ride east. After visiting family in PA, we went to "All Good" music festival in West Virginia. Heading home we went the far north route of Hwy 2 (the high line) in order to see glacier national park and hit some hotsprings in Idaho. 8400 miles in all. The engine was flawless. never a hiccup, no temp issues, and pretty decent MPG considering how loaded down we where. We had camp kitchen equipment to feed a small army, and on the way back we hauled and Antique Grape Crusher/Wine press and an antique foot powered Sewing machine, none of wich was light. Now the trip wasn't without issues, just not engine ones. Flat tire on the car in Indiana......discover bottle jack doesn't work......flag down motorist to borrow jack......back on the road....... trailer wheel bearing disintegrates and wheel and hub nearly fall off......luckily I noticed in a town that had a napa.....bought jack and wheel bearings and repaired......then drove off and left the jack under the trailer....DOH! Glacier national park a front axle outer joint grenades.....knock out pin, pull broken part and continue in RWD Then finally less than 100 miles from home I pull over to pee, and hear that wonderfull hiss of a tire loosing air....trailer tire popped....and it went flat quick.....flag down another car, borrow jack, put spare on. Here are some pics. Sorry none of the carnage....wish I had at least gotten a shot of the wheel bearing on the trailer.....it was so close to falling off.

Sooooooo much work and really you won't notice any difference when driving it. Oh yeah, until it blows. Honestly I don't even think there is enough material to bore out, the limit listed by FHI is .50mm so this is all an irrelavant discussion.

EJ swap it and run the full RS trans behind the EJ. done

If you aren't turboing, then why the EJ20 pistons? You should return them and get some standard EJ18 pistons. And just for the record, what are you doing to the poor N/A EJ 18 that you need to replace pistons and rods? Rods could be from lack of oil changes, but why would you need new pistons. If anything ReRing the ones you got and slap some new bearings in and go. Trying to use ej20 pistons seems pointless.

Also could be the side gear bearings of the front diff. You can easily pop the cups out and check the race for wear. Though replacement requires removeal of the trans from car and front diff from trans. check the wheel bearings first. tell us this, does the noise change when weight shifts side to side in turns? if so the wheel bearings arre the culprit. If the noise stays fairly constant at a given throttle, regardless of turning/ weight shifting, it's more possibly the side bearings of the diff.(in trans/diff housing)

My 89 GL with the EJ22 gets about 24 mixed driving, and up to 31 just freeway. Might be better, but it's hard to get an excact figure cause I'm running 205/70/15 tires. And it's a bigger displacement engine:rolleyes: I'd say if you where really trying to squeeze MPG's go with an EJ18 from an Impreza. Still you'd have about a 30hp jump, peak torque comes earlier, but with no increase in displacement.

No, different setup. The racnchos are not setup with the needed spring perch for a coilover. You can however get rear struts for a FWD model, they are about two inches longer at the bottom. Use your original springs, with the new spring perch upside down, and the old one stacked onto, for extra lift. That way you get the height, but keep the softer springs. Or you could cut a few coils off the honda springs and do the same.

piece of the pilot bearing? It not parts of one of the clips that hold the TO on is it?

95 ECU wirng and colors are different from the later 96-99 I found the 95 FSM scans at PDFtown.com having a hard time finding hte link again. If you PM me an email address, I can e-mail the 95 PDF to you.

does the trans make any whining noises? ON the 03 H6 we bought, the pinion shaft bearing in the front diff was toast. So bad it was taking out the seal between the Front diff and the trans, allowing fluid interchage. H6 trannies are particular to that model. Make sure it sounds good with no gear whine. otherwise, the H6 is a great car, allthough ours is not a VDC so can't advise about that.

Hey all, Looking to find confirmation that the cruise control computers from 95-99 are interchangable? anybody got any input.

<<<jealous. What brand? I couldn't find any in 3/8ths drive that where slim enough to fit inside the stub.

I would test first. but it isn't too expensive to replace so........ I should say, after rereading, it could also be a fuel issue since cycling the key will run the fuel pump a second each time. Perhaps you've got an injector leaking and depressurizing the fuel rail when it sits? I'd still check CTS first.