Gloyale

Coolant temp sensor If the ECU doesn't know what temp the engine is at, it has a hard time getting the fuel ratio optimum for starting. If it starts cold but not when warm.....the CTS is stuck on a "low temp" reading (2-3Kohms) If it has a hard time in the morning, but starts fine after warm and restarted, then it is stuck at a "high temp" reading (300-1000 ohms) It probably is giving an inaccurate reading....but not so far off to cause it to throw a code. you can try testing the resistance of the CTS cold, and then hot, and make sure it's going through the proper range. Hard to get test leads in there.......unless you have an old harness to chop the CTS connector off and make a test harness.

NO. The horn is activated by the button in the steering wheel grounding out to the column. You would need to wire in a relay that switches power to the starter based on a ground trigger. Then for the horn, you would need the button on the floor to connect to ground when you depress it.

95% duty cycle is FWD from the TCU (this is what the TCU does when put in FWD mode) 05% duty cycle would "locked" or maximum output 4wd from the TCU. Sorry, but you got it backwards. When running in "locked" mode with this mod the Duty C get's ZERO.....that's right ZERO power. Totally de-energized. When switched to "locked", the thing sits like a rock in the trans not hooked to any voltage. How could it "fry"? Sorry Mostaru for the tangent.......I just don't like to see misinformation posted about how TCU controls the transfer.

Where you using an E-10 socket (reverse torxs) or just a standard 10mm? I have found there is no substitut for the E-10. Had to order them from Cornwell tools...but they had em. Note* needs to be 1/4 drive, deepwell or it won't fit into the stub opening.

OK, just to clarify a few things. First.....NEVER ground out the duty solenoid. Doing this while it's connected to the ECU basically shorts out the transitor that runs that circuit. It does drive the voltage low.....which cause the Duty C to stop draining pressure and engages the clutches. But the price is burning up the TCU or the Solenoid or both. Simply interupting the circuit....I.E. a switch inline on the wire.....is the "right":rolleyes: way to do this "locking" mod. And yes I've done it on many rigs so this isn;t speculation. I have thought about this too. Problem is that the 4eat already has a history of shearing off the hub where it's welded to the end of the output shaft. But it likely would work well for a bit. It's worth noting, the Phase II 4eats have a WAAAAAY more solid transfer output. Also they are almost 3 inches shorter......almost identical length to the EA D/R boxes. So if you where gonna try this, the later trans may be a better option, although the more complex TCU could be tough to install in a non OE setup.

You don't weld the pulley onto the crank. You just weld the key into the crank. Steps.... Remove tbelt covers and T-belt and idlers. Remvoe the oil pump. Coat the area that the oil pump mates to with anti spatter gel from welding store, for use on MIG and TIG tips. stuff a bit of steel wool into the oil passages carefully and put anti spatter on them as well. you don't want slag in your oil passages. Place a new key in the crank, and with few small beads weld it to the crank. Grind and file until the profile is correct to slip a new pulley over. Reinstall everything Use blue loctite on the crank bolt, and torque the BEJEEZUS out of it. 5th gear, e-brake on, 3 foot cheater on a breker bar, tighten it till it won't go more. Unless you are superman, you won't be risking overtightening, the crank and bolt are very hard steel. The key is just for positioning of the crank sprocket. If the pulley bolt is tight enough, the keyway should not be under any load while running. It's only when the pulley works loose that the keyway takes all the rotational force.

that's me. I can be hard to get ahold of, but that's where I'm at. Give me a call. 541-207-6544

Fronts will "work" as in bolt in, but I doubt you'll get "a couple inches" Maybe like 3/4" to 1" Rear definately not. 2000+ Legacy and Outback have a totally different rear end setup. If you are interested though, I do make a 2" suspension or a 4" body/suspension lift for that vehichle. The 2" kit costs less than you where going to spend on struts. PM me if you are interested. Here is a pic of the 2" still with stock wheels and tires.

I did this conversion on my 89 GL. It had a 4eat originally, so I had to run a power wire to the switch. In you're case, one of the wires there from the auto pushbutton has power. That one should go to the common wire in the 5spd switch. This is the power supply that will be switched to the solenoids. For the other two, rather than try to reuse the old wiring, I ran a piece of good quality, copper speaker wire (16g?) from the switch to the 4wd swithing solenoids. this give you you're two leads in a neat and tidy way. The way it works is that power is always flowing from the switch to one of the two solenoid. once you have it wired in, it will be obvious if you have the wires reversed, you'll be in 4wd when you should be in 2wd and vice versa. If so, you don't have to rewire.......simply swap the vac lines that activate the diagphrahm @ the solenoids.

Sadly, in the Willamette valley at least, replacing axles is not a gaurantee they won't click. I;ve got an 84 with brand new axles that sound terrible. Had problems with 3 other EA81's and also an EA82. I've been getting some real crap lately from Knecht's and Autozone. Don't go there for axles. Napa in corvallis currently has GCK axles of good quality. They are the only ones around here that I haven't had issues with. If you wanted to bring it over to my shop in corvallis, I could listen to it and tell you for sure if it's in the Trans or if you got hosed with the friggin recycled shovel and toaster axles from China.

That extra height at the opening of the hatch makes getting things like bikes and furniture in and out ALOT easier. I'd be jealous if not for the rust. I want an 89 Touring SOOOOOO bad, but it would have to be a solid "western" one. I just like the one year only models like that as a novelty. cool factor +1

Have you tested the ground side of the pump circuit? disconnect the harness at the pump (top of fuel tank) and test continuity to ground on the ground wire of the pump harness. If you have power and ground at the pump connector, but the pump doesn't run, you have a bad pump or a bad connection to the pump.

You're thinking of the EA82 turbo's that have the extra crank vent. All EJ's have the vent on the top of the case. The 2.2 turbo block I've got doesn't have "crosshatching" on it either. But there are some grooved lines in a kinduv semicircle on the bell where the starter bolts onto. Those lines are what I've been told are an external I.D. mark for the closed deck turbo blocks.

Valve train noise in these motors can be easily eliminated. Remvoe the valve covers. Remove the rocker assembly. ONe at a time, pull the adjuster fromt he arm tips. Place it in a shallow pan of clean oil (cut off bottom of a Quart oil bottle) Hold it upsidedown against the bottom of the pan, and use a pin to poke the relief valve ball, while compressing the whole thing. It can take a bit of compressing and refilling before they prime up. You want to get them to where they compress and expand fully when the pin is depressed, but pumped up solid with oil after primed. Occasionally you will find one that is totally stuck compressed. In that case they are cheap from subaru or if you have any extra heads around just scavenge one.

Line end testing on the production line, and early "select monitor" interface. (Select Monitor is Subaru's Pre-0BD II computer diagnosis system. Allows a tech to view streamed data from the ECU) Kinduv obsolete and irrelavant anymore.

lot's of mid eighties and even some early 90's toyota's Camry's and F.I. trucks most notably

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hmmmm........well, you're words not mine. This seems to be an acknowledgement that the amount of money you spent isn't reflective of a "bottom line" evaluation of cost of someone doing it themselves. (I can only presume from you're description that you paid for others labor to do your swap, correct me if wrong) Perhaps you've overestimated? Lets' recap..... The survey was to gather data for an "average". My point is that he's ending up with a flawed data from estimates that include cost of maintanence items. But yes, it was a survey that we both answered. However..... The underlying point behind the question is how much should he plan on saving up to be able to do a swap. After answering said survey, I offered an opinion that while not a direct response to the question, is still very relavant to the overall issue being addressed. Did I do something wrong?

I am seeing alot of stuff that I would consider regular maintanance one would be performing on either the old engine or the new at some point (t, belts, headgaskets, etc...) I really don't think those things are directly connected to the price of "doing the swap" Most people doing the swap seemed to be faced with worn out enignes that would cost something to fix, so the regular service items come out a wash. Also, alot of talk about swapping in EJ trans and STI motor mounts. Again, that's really secondary and on top of the primaryENGINE swap. To me, the bottom line "cost" of the swap comes down to 3 things. engine/harness/ECU cost, (i.e. donor car cost) ranges from $150-500for a donor car. If you buy piece at a time from the junkyards, you could spend more. Notably for Alternator, MAF and Intake tube, Ignitor, Exhaust......all things that would be on a complete donor car. Adapter plate and flywheel cost , from $50-250 (there are other optioins too. Split an EJ trans and put S/R EA guts and tailshaft on it, or use EJ trans but then there will be cost of axles and driveline.) Hoggin out the holes on the flywheel takes about an hour with a dremel and a carbide cutting tip. *warning* may kill your dremel. And cost of stripping harness, and installing. The last one can all be free if you are willing and able to do the work yourself (which most USMBer's are, whether they know it or not) Everything else is totally dependant on how much you want to replace *preventatively* and what condition the car it's goin in is in. There is also of course Fluids, hoses, shrink tube and loom wrapping, solder, a 270 ohm resitor. But that's nickle and dime stuff that can be worked out after the actual ECU wiring and "swap" Of course the older carbed cars need a bit more, fuel pump most notably. I can say that neither of my swaps has cost me more than $1000. Even if I include things that are really more like maintanance in my mind.

Heavy and low. Lots of money and parts to get lifted and good clearance. Still have to either buy new axles, or swap stubs, or make some combo axle. And also modify shift linkage, and have a longer driveline made. And did I mention heavy?

On what??? Did you have the EJ fully rebuilt? Did you pay someone to do the swap for you? $3000 is way more than nessecary. One could go buy everything needed for less than a grand easily. not trying to flame I'm just stating for the record, that 3k is excessively high for an EJ swap.

Yeah, that is a misprint in the haynes and chiltons. Only one loosening of 180 deg. is needed. Doing a second 180 won't really hurt anything, except it will leave the head so loose....i'd be afraid the new gasket could get shifted. That would defeat the whole purpose of the initial "squeeze" of torquing them. They probably got mixed up by the tighten 90, then repeat. The proceedure mdjdc is correct.

For my EA wheeler: Donor car with bad engine (harness, ECU, Intake) = 250 Adapter plate = $50 (had some made locally) Good running EJ18= $50 SPFI fuel pump=$60 (seriously, this was the hardest thing to find a good one of) New Tbelt set, water pump, hoses, clamps, and clutch set = $350 For my EA82 "road" wagon: Totalled 96 Outback = $180 Adapter plate = $50 New radiator = $120

Knock sensor and CTS are on the rear of the intake manifold (actually Knock sensor is in the block, but back in the same area. Kinduv in front of the turbo, between it and the Throttle body. Honestly though, It sounds to me like you have an unmetered air leak. I'd check the condition of the rubber intake boot. clamp all the ports where PCV hoses plug into it, and make sure there are no cracks.