Gloyale

HighGuys also has lift kits for the Legacy. Check our thread in the vendor section. Ready to ship, with all hardware. PM me if you are interested.

It's on that sticker. I swear.

2000 Forrester with less than 100k? Why on earth would he want to get a new car? I mean Worst case scenario he could replace the Trans, the Clutch, The Master and Slave cylinders, and all the Shift Linkage bushings and joints and still be at a fraction of the cost of buying another equivalant subaru. C'mon guys........I'll bet it's a really simple fix.

Remove the intake. don't reinstall the intake until after the engine is back in the car. If you're just pulling hte trans, unbolt the intake, but don't unhook the fuel line etc, just flop it up out of the way.

Build date ABSOLUTELY is on the sticker on teh bottom of the door. Look for anything that looks like a date. It won't say "build date" It's simply more like "04/97" Not in the door frame, actually on the lower edge of the door. date Should be in the corner

Dropped it in the mail.

Drivers seat in a 96 outback is adjustable height. You will be able to sit higher or lower than you're old seats. The height adjustment does make it a bit harder to remount the EA rails. As I said, you will need to grind off a few tack welds that hold the pivot of the height adjust to the EJ rails. Once you do that, it's as simple as drilling a few holes in some flatbar and bolting on the EA rails. IIRC, you need to space the EA rails in 1 inch. So the flat bar strips need have holes in them 1 inch apart. You will only need to move the outer rail. The inner rail mounts directly to the new seats. use the existing front bolt holes, but because the EA rails are shorter, you need to drill new holes in the seat frame for the rear bolts. Also, IIRC, you will need to trim out both a small portion of the plastic trim piece that covers the seatbelt retractor, and also, trim the bottom of the plastic on the seat that covers the hingers and latch. That plastic has a "accent" line in the plastic that makes a pretty good cut line. Dremel or drill with a small end mill bit works perfect for all the plastic trimming.

4x 2 per side

Spark plugs or Plug wires. Coupled with lack of knock sensor The pistons are a larger diameter. The casting and the liner are larger diameter. It's not really a larger bore of the same block, but a larger cast cylinder. You could not bore an EJ20 to the size of EJ22 pistons. That said, they are physically the same external dimensions. As long as the EJ20 is a SOHC, you should be able to bolt an EJ22 right in with the same intake and wiring.

PM me with you're address and I can send you one. I just parted out an EA81 with Manual steering that has a good one on it. All my EA81's are Power steering or have EA82 front ends, so I don't need it. I wouldn't want to see a board member wreck for lack of a easy to ship little part that we have lots of out here.

There are Thousands and Thousands of EJ25s driving round every day. Could count 50+, just in my town on a given day. Every one that I've done HG's in is still drivng round 3,4,5 years later. Haven't personally had one come in with rod knock. Maybe I'm just too into having some ponies in the stable, but I would personally rebuild the 2.5 It really isn't that hard to clear off a table, split the case, and put some new bearings, rings in it and put it back toghether. That being said......2.2 is an INCREDIBLY good motor. Very durable. You won't be making a mistake with a swap. You might miss some horsepower though.

But if the U-joint portion of it's trashed, he won't need to replace the rag. I still say get a good used coupler from an EA82 and slap it in there. Eliminate the rag joint.

Those radiators will not fit uless those are GL *hatchs* which they probably aren't If you want to be sure to get hte right one tell them you need it for a Brat.

What about the chart with the same Part #s for the MPFI and SPFI 1.8? they superceed to the same PN? I guess it's not a big deal, as it's doubtful many of us will ever see those heads or intakes.

Something I recently ran into with a Vanagon conversion as well. Anybody ever look in the 90 and 91 FSM's about the IAC. Ever notice that the IAC valve and circuit are different between Manual and AT cars. The Auto IAC has the 3 pins. Power is supplied to one wire, thorugh the Ignition relay, not the ECU, while the others are duty controled by the ECU to balance the *open* and *close* circuits. The Manual IAC has only 2 wires. Power goes to it from the ECU through one wire (that would be a ground side of the Auto circuit), and ground is controlled by the other. Direct from ECU, no external power source. There is only an *open* circuit on the MT valve. So back to the point. The Vangon had a code for "24" IAC. Well, here's the deal. The donor car for this swap was a 90 legacy Automatic. 3 pin IAC. Now the guy who did the swap (very professional) cut the Tran I.D. wire at the ECU to designate manual. FIne on 92+ ECU's used in swaps. But not on these first 2 years(90,91). Problem is, now the computer expects to see a 3 wire IAC. Hence the code. I am betting that this is what you are dealing with tturnpaw. I see 3 options: 1: Ground the Trans I.D. pin for automatic. All other things correct the engine should still idle well. Did this to the vanagon for a temp fix. 2: Install a 92-94 ECU. These years MT and Auto used the same 3 wire IAC. Then you could cut trans I.D. wire to designate MT without the IAC code. 3: Install a 2 pin IAC from a Manual car. Connectors and wiring remain the same. But once you have a 2 pin IAC on there, the ECU can be I.D.'d to be a manual with no code.

yup. I got a couple I could sell for $75 bucks. High miles but running. Or I got one with less than 5k on the rebuilt bottom end. $200 Or I could EJ it for ya :wink:

Ever get that temp gauge corrected? 270 ohm 1/4 watt resistor worked for me in my EA81 and my EA82. *note....for some reason my EA82's gauge sit above "C" when cold, key on, eng off. But warmed up it sits right in the middle.

Weird, all our intakes over here are seperate from the coolant crossover.

Because you will still own it after getting the HG's done, and then it will be ready to go for another 5, 10, or 15 years. Compare that to a GM that will explode pistons @100k. Or a Nissan that loses a timing chain(yes it happens) Every car and engine is prone to some type of failure. What makes subaru great is that even the failures are predictable, and relatively easy to fix. You'll pay more in one year of interest on a new car loan the the cost of rebuilding your motor. Not to mention higher insurance. Every mile you put on your car WILL cost you something. Fixing the car you already have is almost always the less expensive option.

I am a Mechanic in Corvallis, OR. If you can get it towed over, I've got several EA82 shortblocks. One even that's got brand new rings and bearings less than 5k miles ago. I have a truck and flatbed, and could tow it for you if you can't find a decent price. As for dangerous to drive?. I don't htink it's a danger to you. But you could end up with destroyed heads as well as the bottom end.

Relax. The CV is just hyper-extended. You can open the clamps, put all the guts back in properly, and reboot it. new clamps are $.99

By my reading that's the same part #s for the intake gaskets on all EJ18's on the list. SPFI or MPFI 14035AA050 Superceeds to 14035AA051 which superceeds 14035AA190 Remember that just cause the PN's are different, doesn't mean it's not interchangable when you're dealing with subarus. I think if the same gasket works SPFI or MPFI on the 1.8, IDK why it wouldn't work a phase I SOHC 2.2? Same heads.

EJ it. Ton's of legwork done already. Way more EJ swaps have been done, and the engines are way more common and easy to get parts on. As well, they are arguable much more "solid" and have fewer quirky problems than ER and it's associated engine managment (assuming you where to use a stock ECU) No modification of the enigne bay needed and here's how the # look: ER27=145 hp EJ18=110 hp(but lots of torque) EJ22 = 130+(? not sure about phase II) EJ25 = 160+(and cheap to get needing HG's) EJ20 or 25 with Turbo(s) = 200+++ Keep in mind it's easy to get 5-10 hp bump from just an exhaust and intake set-up.

My combo for the most lift and tire clearance (perch height) on a 95-99 Legacy body is. Outback Front struts, Forrester springs, and tops. Outback Rear strut, with you're Forrester spings and Forrester top hat.

I've owned a few of 'em twice. One was a 87 GL. Got it given to me, sold it, then got it given back when the rust got too bad. I parted it out for a front end for my EA81 Wheeler Wagon Another was a 86' GL-10 turbo 4wd. That one was really rusty. I bought it trashed, fixed it up and beat the snot out of it for 2 years delivering pizza in Wisconsin winters (I was the only one with on time deliveries in snow storms, made me more money per night than other guys) Sold it to another delivery guy and he drove it another year or so till the frame started buckling and it was unsafe. Damn Salt. He gave it back to me for a part out. I've also been a "shepard" for lots of my old subaru's from person to person, as people are always asking me about who's got a subaru for sale. Now if anybody out there has still got my Metallic Brown 86 GL wagon originaly from Oregon but then I sold it in Wisconsin :crying: and now it's who knows where but his name is "The Mighty Quinn" I will buy him back.