Gloyale

Buy some pugs and and go to a low profile tire. anywhere from a 225/60/14 to a 265/50/15

I thought it was well timed. I am taking a long road tri[p to CA and want to be able to communicate with the other cars in the caravan. So I installed a CB (cheap Midland from Bi-Mart) and hooked it up to the Mag Base antenna I had laying round. Now I've on;y used CB in the woods when wheelin before. That mag mount antenna seemed to work fine before. This time though, installed in the car, mounted to the rear center of the roof, I was transmitting this terrible "feedback" like noise. I had other guys parked over 100ft. away telling me that all they could here from my radio was a loud squealing sound. SOOO......I went and bought a fender mount, a Firestik, and an SWR meter and mounted it up, tuned it, hooked it up......bam.....worked perect. I left the Mag mount antenna wire routed in the car for now. I may try tuning it later when I find my SAE hex whrench set to adjust the height. But FWIW, the permanent mounted antenna seem WAAAAAY better.

If the waterpump pulley slips over the studs in the pump, then the fan slips over the same studs, you have dealer installed A/C. Long Pump (110mm) IF the waterpump pulley is bolted to the pump, then the fan slips over a second set of studs and bolts to the pulley, you have Factory A/C. Short pump (105) Again. it's easy to just look. If the hub is barely off the body of the pump, it;'s the shorty.....if there is a centimeter or more of space with shaft showing, then it;s the long.

Keep some weight in the back and it will be fine. (gonna have weight in there when wheeling likely anyhow) I would also recomend welding in some blocks onto the original bump stop spots on the control arm. I was having lots of trouble with over extending axles on compression till I limited the uptravel. You want as much as you can get, but if you break an axle then teh uptravel doesn 't help squat.

Make sure to replace the o-rings on the crossover pipe.

yes. looks like it.

Your manual trans Legacy on;y has one VSS. For some reason Subaru calls this one VSS 2. Only automatics have a VSS 1. The VSS on your car is on the passenger side of the tranny, about half way back. 3 prong connector right into the top of the sensor. Unhooks from the sensor. Sensor threads out with a 17mm wrench.

I have confirmed that the supply that at least my local 1-800-radiator dealer can get are 2-row brass. The guy personally put his hands on it to verify. (then I decided to EJ my car and didn't order it, but anyhow.....) EA81 radiators are too tall IIRC, they won't fit in the EA82 body without modification.

1-800-radiator can order you a Dual Core radiator to fit that car. Easiest bolt in upgrade. Otherwise, you just gotta find something that will work. I have a Legacy radiator in my GL turbo.........'cept it's also got an EJ22 in it. More ponies than the old EA82T with fewer problems and easier to get parts for.

Peen the cracks closed and run the original heads. Cracks between the vavles are OK. Very common.

tgscw420's ride The not lifted 81 in this picture. And here is the EJ. 91 Legacy engine/harness/ECU. Fully rebuilt with new bearings, rings, and seals.

205/70/15 tires on redrilled Toyota wheels. 3/4 inch spacer under rear springs (flipped over old perch) on 4wd shocks. 2WD sedan front springs mounted on cranked up '85/86 adjustable struts. Generous trimming.

Yeah, I had to modify my EA crossmember to accept the EJ mount block. If drilling a hole counts as modifying:rolleyes:

Temp probe inside the trans.

Bingo Plates are welded to the tube at an angle. Strut mounts in body are at an angle. When you bolt the lift block to the body, the angles should match so that the tube is VERTICAL. this will still require bashing the inner fender where it "humps" outward.

Cool PICS!

Sounds normal. You're DMM probably can't display the pulse quickly enough. But if you're using the original VSS wire, it will be right. EJ with a dual range with stock tires should climb a telephone pole.

I didn't say there was no bashing. I didn't say no offset. I said the strut moves straight down, not *IN* The block does need to have an offset. Because of the angle of the body mounts, a "straight cut" block would push the tops out. So the angle doesn't really bring them in, it keeps them from going further out. Makes them go vertically down to the new mounting point. But, because of the angle of the towers, when the strut moves down, the top runs into a bit of a hump in the body. That DOES need bashed in. Not because the struts move in, but because the towers have an angle and when you push the tops straight down it hits. What I am getting at is that in the end, if you where to measure total distance directly across between Strut top to strut top, the distance should be the same when you are done with the lift as it was in the factory mounts. Understand what I mean? If as Uberoo said, you actually *moved* the tops *IN* 4 inches per side, they'd be in the engine bay. If the blocks are correct, the tube should be straight up and down vertical when mounted to the body. Distance between the two tops should not change.

93 Loyale is SPFI NO KNOCK SENSOR. Run higher octane or pull back the timing a bit.

Duty C is the same. The extension housing and transfer clutch pack is slightly different. EJ mounts won't fit onto the EA tails and vice versa they can be interchanged, but you have to use the whole tailsection, hub, and clutch set from EA or EJ.....they don't mix.

You're math is wrong. Angles don't change cause you add more length to the line. If you cut it 7 degrees, it will be a seven degree block, and however long it is, it will still be a seven degree block. But, If you measure the angle between the tower and horizontal, you'll find it's actually about 14 degrees. Don;t know where you got 7 but whatever. If you build your block right, you won't be moving the strut tops in at all. They will drop directly vertical down. If you built straigh blocks (no angle) , they would push the tops out. So the angle doesn't actually "bring them in" it keeps them from going out.

If something isn't right like a vacuum leak, or a PCV hose missing, the ECU can determine that it's unable to control the idle within normal. Ussually a leak or an IAC issue. When it deems this has happened, it cut's fuel to the #1 injector as a way of keeping the idle from running away. Really sucks. So you need to figure out what's up with that. Check the idle switch in the TPS is closing, check the IAC is hooked to the intake boot, MAF clamp tight, no vac leaks, throttle cable not too tight. Solve the idle, and the misfire will likely disappear. Knock sensor code won't give any running problems. Just needs a new one if it faults right off.

No. Clifford has had a Dual range for almost 2 years. I made a thread about the 4.11 AWD dual range we made for him. It blew up.....might work with a few tricks next time...... But for now he just has a 3.9 EA D/R with an adapter plate. There was a Forrester around somewhere too, and somebody's got an Imp with a D/R as well. Been done. Not enough:grin:

yeah, what he said. That had been my thinking too. Put the power for the Headlight relays on it's own switched relay.

+1 I drove my 86 turbo for years without a KNock sensor. Delivering pizza no less. Pull the timing back to 22 or so (instead of spec. 25) and run mid-grade or higher. Listen for any knocking and pull back timing if there is any.