Gloyale

I'd replace the crank seal. It's so easy and then it will be done. It is REAR mains that are really best left untouched unless they are for sure leaking.

They are for the the following: Heater blower Rear defrost Headlight Left Headlight Right They all use the same relay and the relay will only plug in one way. As long as each connector has a working relay, your fine. Actually that's one of the ways I test relays in these cars. Just switch em round to test wether the circuit has a problem or the relay.

LEgacy, Impreza, WRX......If you have an EA 5spd any of the EJ 5spd discs will work. You are sitll stuck usiing a GL or at best an XT6 pressure plate. *tip* I had my machinist shorten the step between the PP mounting and the friction surface. an extra ".005-007 Helps produce just a bit more "bite"

Late eighties Honda accord front springs will fit the back of a subaru. Some have said it TOO stiff, and a few have even had spring perches blow off the strut. Might want to cut off a coil.

Well the hole on the Legacy boots and on the IAC is like 3/4 inch or so. The hole in the Impreza (1.8) intake is on;y about 1/4 inch. So maybe use a 1/4 or a 3/8th restrictor?

AT Temp light, CEL, and rev limiting to 4500 are likely ALL from the lack of a VSS. I know that my 96 Outback was rev limited when the VSS went bad. Speedometer in dash is not connected to the second VSS that is in the rear of trans. That one is for the TCU to calculate AWD. My guess is that one of the nylon gears on the diff that run the speedo is stripped. Either the Drive or the driven, can't know without inspection. It is possible to inspect, and to replace the small, driven gear with Trans in car. Have to remove passenger side front axle, spin out the bearing retainer, and reach into the diff with snap ring pliers to get the gear off it's shaft. The large drive gear that is mounted on the diff is much harder to replace. The bearing race for the diff must be pulled, and this is pretty much impossible with the trans in the car, or even out of the car without disassembly of the front diff portion of the trans.

Is the clip still in the tube? If so, you could just slide the snout of a TC in there and pop it back into the tube (clip should grab at least some) then just pull the TC back out and the tube should come with.

Yeah, except around here they don't have the stuff for old subarus in stock, so there is nothing to compare to. And the reason I say their heads are up there rump roast is that the parts listings are wrong. I know that the people working there can't be expected to be experts on Subarus. But I CAN expect that the NATIONAL CHAIN PARTS STORES have correct listings for the stuff they sell and VERY OFTEN THEY DON'T. I did not mean it personally just as a general statement. C'mon? We all know that if we want the right part WE have to know what we need cause the parts stores don't care about us. Oh, and uh.....no offense.........., but it also seems to me I've been shopping for subaru parts since you were still reading the first Harry Potter book......so I might know a thing or two about ordering Subaru parts.

FWD rear struts are about two inches longer. But there springs are way softer. FWD struts with 4wd wagon springs yields a good tall stiff ride that isn't TOO stiff. Flip an extra perch under the spring and you will get even more, but at that point it will be damn near solid.

FWIW I am still running a 200 mm disc in my EJ'd 84 GL. 225mm Plate and flywheel, just the tiny disc. (installed as temporary fix/experiment) I've been wheeling several times. The parts stores do indeed have their heads up there arses, but it's worth noting they are technically right. The 200mm disc will work.........

yes, wagon springs are stiffer. An alternative is to buy new struts, flip your old sturts lower spring mount over and slide it on as a spacer below the new spring seat and then use you're existing springs, or stiffer ones. You'll get about an inch lift and more preload. way more if you use wagon springs.

I think one of these little units will fit where the original stereo goes. Then the tray, the ash tray (phone holder, I don't smoke) and the PW switch can all stay right where they ought to be.

You need the front crossmember from a manual trans EJ. That can then be modified, (drill, notch) to accept the D/R mounts. You will also need a D/R shift linkage, An EJ Brake/Clutch pedal set, and a Clutch cable

It's been done. (mellow65 had a phase II motor in his rally lego) Swap cam gear and harness from the phase I Legacy engine. Only real issue is the IAC.....which can be plugged. You just need to hold your foot on the gas to warm it up for about 30-60 seconds before it will idle. That is if you wanted to do this swap.....which you don't. You already have the most reliable, non interference, EJ out there. 95 you may even have the roller rocker valve train. Rebuild what you got.

Bad assumption. Inexperienced shops get the torque converter seating wrong all the time.

It is the 98+ trans that have the 3rd speed sensor. And the 98+ trans are similar but really totaly different. About 3 inches shorter, and different shape to the bellhousing to trans bolt pattern. I don't think you could swap one easily into an 4EAT equiped EJ But the early legacy and Imp 4EATs are 99% the same as the EA ones. Simply remove the bells, swap the Diff chunk into the the EA bell and bolt it toghether. Harness connector is different but all the same wires. The EA TCU runs the Legacy trans nicely. Altough you will have to grind a bit out of your shifter to get it to kick down to first gear.

Cut. Sleeve. Weld. Done. use a tight fitting piece of pipe for sleeve so it will keep the joint true to a centerline. Use the Forrester joint as guide for length. We do this stuff all the time for lifted rigs. That crazy fold open the joint idea is MADNESS and SUICIDE all *rolled* up into one.

You're rear diff won't "go bad" from torque bind. they hosed you. They possibly put the wrong diff ratio in, but not likely.....I've seen that with automatic cars and they are pretty much undriveable, espescially with Torque bind. Besides, ......whining during deceleration is from backlash in the FRONT diff. That is where all the load is. It does most of the drive transfer forward and pretty much all of the reverse load on these autos. I HIGHLY DOUBT that it will blow up in 5 miles. more like 5000+ before it even gets much louder. (This http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106831&highlight=front+diff H6 Outback had a progressively louder front diff wine for years and was still highway driving before servicing) So......I'd say first get you're car back from the clueless guy that replace the diff and says now your car is gonna blow up looking at it. A good knowledgeable subaru guy could repair the pinion and diff bearings, and install a new duty c for labor(?) plus about $400-500 in parts, bearings, gaskets and seals. Spendy, but in the end you will have new parts on a known good shifting trans. Or.......... call around for prices on a good replacement transmission(he is right, with a bad front diff pinion and Duty C, used trans is gonna be a bit cheaper option, but you get what you pay for and used can be ready to break or shift poorly or who knows what:rolleyes:..........)

Yeah, my 84 has a stereo installed there already. It sucks. It overlaps too close to my Power mirror switch, and it leaves the big ugly old stereo opening above it, and eliminates the very nifty little tray. I want to get one of those small little MP3 stereos, and a new, unmodified console to install it in.

I've seen it kill several improperly installed head units in subarus. Ussually takes anywhere from a week to about 3months. Those were high end units. It may be that since this is kinduv a "low end" unit, it may have simplified circuitry and common grounds anyhow so you might get lucky. Still pretty nice. I really think I am gonna get one of these for my 84 GL.

It will be perfect for this. And even capable of a little fun too. Here's my "townie" 84 GL with a 3at.

So, something doesn't make sense. You say "It wont stay running, it starts, RPMs jump to around 3k, then dies." but then also say "Well we looked at it, and it isn't getting spark like we thought." So, if it runs....you have spark. Check that the rotor in the disty is screwed onto the shaft, and that it turns when cranking engine. If the screw is still in the rotor, and it turns, and the engine will start but then die.....you don't have a spark issue. What I think , is that you've got a tube unhooked somewhere between the Maf, the Turbo, and the intake. Possibly the boot pulled off the MAF? A hose pulled out of the intke boot? intake popped of the Throttle Body from pressure? Check that all the PCV hoses that go into the intake boot are in place, and not leaking. Look for any cracks around those hoses on the intake. Check the AAV hose that runs from the bottom of the "subaru Turbo" intake piece down to the AAV, make sure that it is on and clamped tight.

You don't need any of the stuff in those pictures. Do make sure to cut off the Alternator connectors from the EJ harness. Leave yourself a bit of a pigtail on them to tie into the EA harness.

I've got an 84 GL sedan with the 3AT (4wd) in it and it is a great little car. Bone stock, but with PS and A/C. It's definately not fast, but it is very comfortable to putter around town in.

That may be part of why you have poor sound levels (halfing the resistance on the Right and Left Channels?) Also it may not be good for the electronics in the head unit Again, the resistance change, and lack of diodes on the + wires would mean that effectively the Front and Rear + wires are bridged into the same circuit through the speakers. Oh and you should test the Fade front to back. I bet it doesn't work :wink: There is a sticky or a page in the USRM about this. Search "stereo installation"