Gloyale

If I Recall Correctly And yes, stick a wire into that first pin on the white connector, and the hook it to ground to confirm that the "ECS" light on the dash comes on. If that works, you got the right pin. If not try second pin but it is for sure one of those......i really think pin 1. Once you get that wire in, hook it to the "CEL" wire from you're EJ ECU.

Yeah, but they are weaker. I preffer the upgrade to '00+ Forrester, Outback, or WRX wagon axles.......lots of options. But in particular the '00+ Forrester axles have a really cool, steep angle, extra "stretchy" tripod type joint with sliders that are a ring inside of a ring on another rounded post, and the channels that they ride in are very deep and "fitted" around the sliders. They seem very well suited for extreme use.

Blue= Yes, you can modify the Front trans crossmemeber from the EJ to fit the EA mounts. Early legacy members are fully double walled, so you have to cut out the "bottom" wall to insert nuts for the mounts. *tip* 2000+ Legacy models have a crossmember that is notched out in the perfect way to mount up to the old D/R mounts. Something I noticed while up under an '03 LGT the other day. Red= You could also split the D/R, and install 25 spline stubs.

Did you seperate the front and rear Grounds? Factory there are only two ground wires, and the speakers on each side share them. I know many Aftermarket radios are not happy wired this way. I've always run new speaker wires to the connectors at the kick panel for the front door speakers, and then hooked the rear speakers up in the dash to the factory wires.

I'm thinking that looks small engouh to fit into an EA81 body car, without a slant console.

No, If the car is newer than 84, then the motor without the lower bolt holes is likely original. IT's the older one that have those extra bolt holes. Make sure to swap you're rockers onto the new (older) head if you use it. You want to keep all the Vavle Train stuff matched.

Pull the panel and the speaker from the drivers side of the dash. Once you do that, you can reach in behind and find the SPeed sensor connector. it's black, 2 pole, with a Yellow/red wire and a Black wire. It's one of those "T" shaped connecotors. Scavenge one from old harness (speaker connectors are the same, and many others) Solder the wire that mates to the black one to ground and the other wire to the EJ VSS. For the CEL....you need an extra pin from one of the round dash connectors. Pull one from an EA82 or another EA81 dash harness, and insert it into the #1(IIRC) spot on the white round connector. Hook the EJ CEL wire to that.

Really? cause I got 3 of em on the shop floor. One with a bad rod knock, shot oil pump (cracked, came out in pieces) And two with headgaskets blown so bad that adding water to them filled the crankcases with coolant and now they are sludged up something fierce. Unless you want a project car.......get a 90's Legacy or impreza. EA81's are no longer the ideal "starter" subaru. To much stuff is old, outdated, and obscure. You have to really have alot of love for em and you need at least 2 extras for parts.

The early 85, 86 and some 87 NON-TURBO trans were all 23 spline. So FWD, 4WD, automatic or manual.....doesn't matter. But in 87, they introduced new transmissions, but dropped the turbo at the end of the year. The 3AT was dropped and all Autos were now 4EATs There may have been a few Non-turbo, Part time 4wd(pushbutton) cars in 88 and 89. These would be 23 spline as well. But after that, most of the 4wd were "fulltime" Bottom line, any of the Subaru "fulltime" trans are 25 spline. Also, 4EATs, FWD or 4wd, are all 25 spline. XTs after 88 and probably alot of the 87's used 4eats for Automatics. So all of them will be 25. As far as I can tell, the only 23 spline axle in ANY XTafter 88 would be on a FWD 5spd or a Pushbutton 4wd 5spd.

Do you have you're O2 Sensor hooked up? I know with both my MPFI GL and my EJ'd wagon that without a O2 sensor, I would get a CEL every now and then at highway speeds, light or no throttle. When I stabbed the gas, it went away.

Swap Forrester Strut tops onto the rear struts.. Forrester mounts are taller....like 3/4 inch. Kinda like a mini-lift block.

Chevy Cavalier, Dodge Caravan, PT cruiser...........lots of rigs with 5x100

88+ most XTs use a 25 spline. Only 5 spd 2wd or P/T 4wd use the 23 spline. Fulltime 4wd manual trans XTs also use 25 spline. 2wd and 4wd autos came with the 4EAT auto trans. 25 spline

The two bolts at eht bottom of the head were eliminated in ?83? I believe? perhaps 84? But it doens't matter, you can still bolt that head onto your block. Definately check the valve size, as the older head may have smaller valves. I personally would just peen the crack closed and run the head that was on it.

First of all, there is no short or long side. The axles are equal length and can be used on either side. The only non symetrical subaru is the in the U.S. is the Justy. I am assuming that you have a "GL" not a "Justy GL", correct? 88 GL (non-turbo) will have a 23 spline stub trans. 91 Loyale should be the same. Now the Loyale axle, being 2wd auto, may have a physically smaller joint (IIRC, 82-AC instead of the 87-AC) but the splines on the inner and outer ends mate up and the axle will work fine. General rule of thumb......*All Non-turbo EA82 axles will interchange. *(Does not apply to late XTs)

But it probably won't I've assembled these motors "mix n match" style before without noticing any trouble. You are more apt to have a problem getting oil pressure to the HLAs than with the Cam followers. Make sure you replace the Cam Case O-ring and you've got a good oil pump with fresh seals.

Wire you're switch(s) to right into the connector at the column that the original ignition switch used. Seems to me you need 2 switches. 1 for ACC. position, and 1 for IG. Then a pushbutton for Start. but if you do that, basically mimic the OE switch, you will have all you're power to everything and it won't be from backfeed. Just use heavy switches(50 amp) and 12 gauge wire.

Progress! The dash is in, and everything is working, with a few exceptions. 1. No "passing" light indicator on the 83 dash. 3rd eye doesn't work curently anyhow. 2. Had to make the door indicator lights be on switched power, as the 83 dash doesn't have a seperate power supply for the "park brake" light. If I wired the door indicators to Bat. then the E-brake light would be on anytime you were parked with the e-brake on. The only other tough thing was figuring out that a few of the wires in the dash plug are actually "outputs". For instance, There is a yellow/red wire that get's voltage though a diode in the board (powered by another source) . Power out of the board into this wire goes to the Brake fluid light, then through it's connector and back into the White/black wire that illuminates the Fluid warning. Ties it all to the other warning lights that come on with key "on". Yeah, confusing right? In the end, there were a few unused wires in the 81 harness (switched power, "passing light". And there are a few more illumination wires needed for the 83 dash, so I had to solder in a few extra, tied into the other dash lights (RB and RG wires)

SPFI the EA81. You don't want the headache of EA82 timing belts. And besides, you'd have to remove/relocate the hill-holder to fit the EA82 in there.

Gotta take the screws out, but the dash can stay in place for the most part. Just lift the lower edge up a bit and you can swap the bulb.

Sweet. That's lot's of good info on the 83. Sadly the even # page scans of the Electrical section are blank?:confused: Still nothin for the 81. But none the less, we are getting there. Thanks

Revised: This car has been Totaled. Loaned it to a friend for a while and this is what he did to it. head on into a Tree at 40mph Specs: Original car: 89 GL Turbo Fulltime 4wd Auto (4EAT) EJ Engine: 96 Legacy Outback 5mt (EJ22 single port) Trans: 5 spd S/R 4wd from Loyale. Other notables: -Full OBD II capability retained -Cruise Control computer, pump, and throttle cable from EJ harness retained, and mated to the GL's original cruise buttons (GL's dealer installed cruise kit stopped working after the flood) -Temp gauge corrected with 275 ohm, 1/4 watt resitor -Impreza Intake boot with cone filter on MAF sensor. -EJ (90 Legacy) radiator Pics to come Here is the replacement. 86 GL wagon. Started life with no options, 4wd, in Afgan-Army beige. Using the same 96 ECU, intake, and harness from the crashed car. 94 EJ22 with fresh rebuild (rings, bearings, valve grind) 9? JDM EJ20 heads with Roller/solid rockers. Ported intake and ported/polished exhaust. 96 Outback 4.11 Manual AWD trans, custom crossmember and driveline. EJ cruise adapted to EA buttons. Heated seats from 96 Outback. Other goodies include 2" HighGuys lift, 205/70/15 on redrilled Yota rims, Rear disc brakes, XT turbo Swaybars front/rear, Swing out spare tire mount, Custom 2 tone "Outback Limited" paint and badging.

Definately need to replace the tensioners and pump at least every other T-belt. I mean....let's face it.....these belts seldom ever break just from age. 99% of timing belt failure I've seen in EJ engines is from a tensioner or water pump bearing failure. The big wide rubber is tough.....something else has to be wrong before it breaks. (I've pulled 250k mile motors with original T-belts. They got lucky, but they made it because nothing seized) It not worth the risk of being stuck and having a wrecked motor for a little extra $.

It's all bolt in. The DL pedal assembly will bolt into the XT, as well as the trans crossmember, Clutch cable, etc. As GD noted, you could put a dual range 5 spd into this car. Although I disagree that it would be any easier. And being as you already have the good S/R(single range) and all the fixins' I suggest you will be totally happy with the S/R (you could always add a D/R later and clutch and all would be done already) The reason I say the D/R wouldn't nessecarilly be easier is that there was never a D/R XT so you would have to modify a console to fit a GL , D/R shifter in there. IDEK if there is room in the console for the lever without hitting the XT's JetFighter shift lever. I guess if you are gonna use the DL or a GL shifter then..??? With the S/R it's all direct fit pieces from a manual XT. Wiring would need to be done, but heck, you're already gonna have to wire up the Neutral switch, reverse lights, and 4wd light so the soldering iron's already gonna be hot. The 4wd solenoids are super easy to wire. If a person can wire in a new set of speakers.....they can handle this. You will need to find a pitch stopper bracket from a manual XT as well, or fabricate. You could use a Manual XT front driveline section......possible that the DL front shaft will work......but I am not positve XT's are the same wheelbase. You will need to use the DL front axles......the FullTime auto trans has 25 spline stubs and you need 23.