Gloyale

Funny thing about that wire is that it goes into the SMJ and through, makes a loop, and then goes back out the SMJ to the ECU and relay. I am sure you have got a good handle on it, but just worth double checking that all came out right. Props on eliminating the SMJ......I hate that thing. The lack of the SMJ on the 96 OBD II donor I used for my most recent swap made everything WAY easier

There is a Light green/Black wire that supplies "on" power to the ECU and to the IG. relay trigger. In the factory set up, the wire starts as a yellow wire, and gets switched voltage on the ALT-2 circuit (yellow wire from EJ alt) then it goes into a diode,(becomes the Light green/Black wire) through the SMJ and splits to be the 2 wires that go to the ECU and Ig. Relay. Now if you left the diode, make sure you are powering the yellow wire side of it....that will send power through to the ECU and relay. If you cut it out, make sure BOTH of those LgB wires are getting switched power. And then you will also need to supply switched power to the Yellow wire on the EJ alt. I cut mine and spliced around the SMJ, but otherwise set up as factory.

I never thought I'd say it........but thank goodness for Haynes books. I went through the EARLY version of the Haynes "1600 and 1800, 1980-1988" Much to my amazment, it has full wiring diagrhams for 80/81. Sweet. No pinouts for the connectors but at least wire colors have helped a ton. Same book has diagrahm for 82/83.......but nothing for 84 and above. OUr donor dash car was an 83.....but a very late build (6-83) and we are finding a few non-matching colors on the dash and tilt column connectors (did I mention we are installign the tilt column in the 81?) But again....it's been helpful. Sadly......the later prints of the same book......the ones that go up to 94.....eliminated most of the early wiring diagrahms. All the subaru FSM scans are gone.....and replaced with generic Haynes redrawings. They say things like "typical 80-86 lighting system" with a diagrahm that cannot be even close to correct for all models in that year range. Progress, progress. I will most likely be taking the dash in my 84 apart to use as a refference. I need to get in there to put a new "charge" light in it anyhow.

thanks for the input.....but no. We already took out both dashes, and started the re-wire. Already cut the pigtails off the 81 dash to use as adapters for the 83. It had a burned out tach anyhow and needed replaced so we are replacing it with the 83 dash that we got for free.

no that's it. Again, make sure the cam followers dont' fall off or get crooked when you install the cam tower. *tip* If you leave the valve covers off until you are ready to install the cam sprockets, you can use a 1" wrench on the cam (hex section) to hold it while tightening cam sprocket bolts.

You will still have to trim the front fenders for 31's I would place some flat bar on the top of the rear blocks to spread the load onto the body sheetmetal. My blocks started crushing into the body until I added some plate up there. 12.5 Degrees doesn't sound like enough. I use 16 degrees for these Gen II cars. (22 for Gen I and 18 for Gen III) Use the factory bolts to bolt the block to the body, then use SAE grade 5 hardware to attach subframes to the blocks.

not really. You car isn't running right. solve that, (plugs and wires, and fuel filter)....then check things like Throttle Sensor or MAF sensor.

Well....the tach in his dash is fried as well. So he has two reasons for wanting to swap. And those Driveshaft mounted magnet affaris are no good wheelin. I mean, this isn't really hard. Lots of people rewire to remove digidashes. I had to do it to my 84. No, the 83 dash IS going into his 81. Just having some idea of wire colors and connectors would make it easier. But we I.D.'d about 80% of the wiring by tracing pins on the board. today will be more progress.

I want to use a married toyota transfer case for a lifted subaru. Sami cases are weak, and 720's are getting hard to find........and the whole deal is longer than a married unit. Crawler kit in the T-case and 4.44 LSD difs front and rear.

Yeah, but they can start leaking too. Rebuild kits for these are like 30-40 bucks. I think it's the way better way to go. They are really easy to rebuild. No real need for a press, you can drift the bearing and pump shaft out and in easy.

So I got a free parts car today. 83 fwd wagon. Feedback Carter carb. EA81. Engine full of water coolant mix. Either a freeze plug popped or the Head gasket is way blown. I got dibs on the interior, but my buddy needs the dash w/VSS for his EJ swapped 81. Started in on the swaping of said dash today. Hunger and fatigue got the best of me, I was getting so confused. It'd be alot easier if I had wiring diagrahms for either or both cars. Anybody?

Yellow wire get's switched power Black/white wire goes to the charge light (white/red in the EA harness) Fatty white wire in the plug should be direct to battery, same wire as the bolt on one.

Which ones? there are a couple sizes.

The four relays are Headlights, Blower fan, and Rear Defrost. You are gonna still need those. There should have been also the ignition relay (6 pole, tan) and the fuel pump relay(roundy, should have a green connector). You'll want to locate the Fuel pump relay wire so you can tap in your EJ pump wire. I would say leave the EA harness. That way you don't risk cutting power to things like cruise and what not. You can just run power to your EJ harness and have it be "stand alone" basically from all other circuits.

That would be the wire to the Charge light. Needs to be mated to one of the wires in the EA Alt connector. you can test by seeing which wire lights the Charge lamp when connected to ground. The light already has power. That wire will be the ground side. Hooks up to the original SPFI wire to the light. Gonna have to pull that lower trim piece in the dash that houses the light and trace the path on the board to figure out which wire. Or find it near the ECU by looking it up in the SPFI FSM. Again, you can get the signal from near the dash by tracing the path of the circuit back to the round connector......Or I.D. it near the ECU. Hopefully the rest will be just as easy to answer

Again.....neutral switch......the car knows when the shifter is in gear or out of gear. Interpretation of this switch is one of the main differences in the ECU's specs MT vs. Auto. I'm sure honda uses more than just RPM and TPS for fuel rationing. Car stalls when clutch depressed = need to at least CHECK the clutch switch. there are actually two of them. One for starter interlock (safety) and the one for the ECU and Cruise. You want the later, the one mounted so it's depressed while the clutch is out. IIRC, Should be open when depressed and close when you push in the clutch pedal.

Not running. Should be voltage even with key off. IAC codes can play hell with the injectors. I HATE that they are tied toghether in the software like that.

It might be a good idea to manually test the operation of the clutch switch. I that is the only electrical device directly connected to the clutch.....might be worth looking into? If the ECU doesn't know the clutch is in, it won't keep the idle up. It will cut all fuel and rely on the car's momentum to keep the enigne turning. It's a fuel economy thing.....to not waste gas going downhill or approaching a stop sign. A simple check with a test light would be all that's needed. Also, put a piece of corrugated wire loom wrap (plastic tubing) around you're spark plug wires where they are near the injector wires. Inspect your injector wires for any nicks or damaged insulation and repair if needed. That may well solve your misfires (ussually does, 2000 models seem to be the worst with this, I suspect software)

Check for power to each injector. you may have a broken wire at a crimp joint. I'd advise removing and cleaning out the IAC as well. IAC problems will force the ECU to cut fuel to #1 injector in attempt to control the idle.

I flooded my GL turbo (the turbo looked sooooo much like a snail crawling on my underwater motor:rolleyes:) First thing was to remove the carpet and seats and dry them. Then I took out the ECU, TCU, and Cruise computers. Removed dash and brought it inside after blowing out all the connectors with compreesed air. Then unplugged every single connector inside the body and sprayed WD-40 in them. After that I started with the repacking all wheel bearings, replaceing all fluids (diff, ATF, power steering, Engine) and drained the gas tank (hotwired pump and pumped it out....actually not much water if any in there) It was alot of work but everything seemed to make it though just fine. No electrical gremlins or noticeable problems from the flood except for the Cruise computer, it died I think. Difference may be that I did all that drying out within days of the flooding. And I pulled the battery cable off within 60 secs of the initial submersion. If the ECU got wet, and then sat with moisteur in the tin can box for weeks?months?years? I wonder what the corrosion on the board is like. I wouldn't pay more than half the scrap value for it. But I'd buy it for that in a heartbeat. Get it if it goes that cheap.

Were both gaskets done the first time? or is this now the other side going out? Were the heads resurfaced during the last change? Block checked and surfaced if needed? And is this a subaru shop? Subaru has odd torque by degree tightening sequence that is easy for inexperienced to screw up. 2.2 swap is great, but I think you may be getting low estimates for the actual cost of obtaining and installing a good 2.2 in this area. The wreckers know that people love their roo's and they charge big money for good engines. Expect to pay at least $400 for the engine and who knows what for the install.

I think a Phase II 2.5 will bolt right in and plug n' play. Look for motors from a 2000+ Legacy Outback or 99+ Forrester

Not mine. Solder on everything. And good rubber insulation where harness goes through the bulkhead. I ran into a similar problem on a customer car once. The guy couldn't figure out why his brake light fuse kept blowing. It had me a bit stumped too. Untill he told me HE installed a new 3rd brake light about a year ago. Pulled it and found the wires twisted toghether, unwrapped, laying on the bare metal car body. DUHHH!!!!!!! Good news is that this bone head was dating a really cool girl at the time and I got to meet her. When she finally realized what a weiner he was, she ended up coming to my shop for her car and we ended up falling in love. So some dumb electrical fixes actually do have a positive outcome.

This sounds like a linkage problem to me. Especially in NY where the salt is bad, stuff underneath gets rusty. I'd start by inspecting the bushings in the shifter.

First off, you need to swap you're rear diff. You're 90 is a 4.11 ratio, and the 94 trans will be a 3.9 Surprising that you haven't had toubles yet. Maybe you're transfer clutches are worn allowing for enough slip. Not good for them though And yes, I would try a different TCU.