Gloyale

I agree. I have done this twice now. Used Ring and pinion from a poorly shifting burned up trans to fix good shifting trans with bad front diff. (once was actually mostly about fixing a speedo drive gear) You need to get the gaskets for the front case and tail section matings. And Most importantly a new "Seal Tube" for inside the diff case. Splurge for side seals and cup o-rings while you're at it.

Guessing your donor car was an Automatic? You wont have a wire in the harness between the ECU and the SMJ Leave it ungrounded. The volts will be 5v if measured. If you ground it the voltage is driven low and if measured would read zero.

So I am doing a swap using a 96 Outback engine. I've got a simple pin voltage chart, but I'd like to get full wiring diagrahms. I've found links to PDFs for '95(same ECU connector, different pin arrangment:rolleyes:) and for 2000 (totally different) Anyone know where to get a PDF version of wiring diagrahms for this or similar car? (96-98 Legacy or Outback. Possibly 96-9? Impreza)

Check the U-joint on the center driveline. the front one right out of the trans.

The fuse for that bulb is blown. Headlight is lighting via a power backfeed from the other side. caracterisic of these cars lighting systems. Replace the fuse for that side and it will be bright again.

I disagree. in fact, being a turbo means you can leave the exhaust in place on the motor. Unbolt the downpipe from the turbo. Unbolt the A/C and power steering pumps and flop them aside. Disconnect heater hoses. Disconnect radiator hoses. Remove radiator. Unbolt motor mounts and lift. Wiring harness connectors are behind the battery. Alt and A/C wires are seperate and just get disconnected at the device.

Looks like I won't need this for the 89. But It may solve the issue I had of a complete lack of any type of VSS in the '81 wagon when I did that EJ swap.

This is EXACTLY what I wanted to here. After reading you're VSS thread, I figured as much, glad for the direct comment here. Thanks again King, and all the USMB. I will post a new thread when the car is done, and add a photo in the who's who sticky.

I knew it was that easy with the OBD I. I thought however that the VSS in the OBD II cars with electric speedo produced waveform, and the simple on off of a reed switch won't work? If you think it's fine, then I'm not gonna worry much then. I'll hook it up on monday. thanks

By law, in Oregon, 1.5 inches is too far..........without adding Fender Flares. Oregon and IIRC Washington tires may protrude a maximum of 1 inch. I haven't heard of anyone getting pulled over for it in a while, but there was a particular sheriff that used to harass wheeler rigs all the time for it. Landscape edging/divider plastic works pretty good for ghetto fender flares. I personally preffer the 88-91ish 4runner rims with a shallower offset.

OBD II Outback 2.2 liter installed into 89 GL w/ Single Range 5spd. I've got most of the wiring sorted out. BUt I ran into a potential problem. The VSS. On OBD I, the ECUs used a reed switch based VSS mounted in the speedo head. But for OBD II, the VSS is mounted in the trans where the cable would go. So, If I mount the Outback VSS into the trans and hook it up, the ECU will be happy........but I'll have no Speedometer. But if I don't hook up a VSS, the Engine will be REV limited to just over 4k. (I know because the donor car had a VSS fail and had said rev limiting occur. Replaced and ran fine till it was wrecked:rolleyes:) What have others done? Maybe I'll look into what it would take to install the Outback Speedometer head into the dash.

Be mad all you want. There are lots of cars (yours included) that have only 50k or 60k mile warranties. Now....have you had the belt tensioner failure confirmed? fixed? we would be interested int he outcome of this if you would like to share.

You do know it is a Boxer 4 cylinder? Not a big V6 or V8? Considering that the engine doesn't make really anywhere near peak torque until 5000 rpm, it really isn't all that unreasonable for the trans to shift at 3000. If you are concerned about engine wear, don't be. These engines like to rev and 3k is nothing for them. If you are worried about fuel, again, don't be. Fuel use is more about throttle opening than it is about RPM. If you are running 3k rpm at a very small throttle opening, you are using less fuel than if you ran at 2k with your foot stomped on the gas to make enough power to lug the car around at low RPMs.

84 should have a VSS. take out the dash. On the back of the Speedometer is a black, 2 pole connector. It has a Yellow/red wire and a black wire. You can scavenge a mating connector or simply cut and splice the wires. Connect the black wire to a ground spot, and connect the yellow/red wire to the EJ harness VSS input wire. Tach should be a dark blue wire with a black stripe in the EJ harness. Hook it to the Yellow wire at the FPCU connector (EA fuel pump control) The FPCU connector is also a good place to pull switched power from.

I'd go for it. $150 is cheap. Then the wiring will be done, and all you have to do is drop in a EJ22 when you find one. Add a wire for the knock sensor, and you can even install the 2.2 ECU if you like. I have an EJ18 in my 84 GL, and it has lots more power than the original motor. EJ18s make their peak torque at lower RPMS than 2.2s as well, so you really feel the grunt.

It's normal part of warm up for the Engine to idle high. Anywhere from a few moments to more than ten minutes. Shouldn't really go over 2000 rpm, maybe 2200 or 2300. But if it's higher than that, you may have a problem elsewhere. Doesn't sound that out of the ordinary though.

Nope, i guess I wasn't clear I was speaking about differences in yearts of EJ harnesses. Specifically the change to two plugs at the engine in 92-94 years. If you strip down and install the harness correct, you only need to hook up a few wires to mate the EJ into the EA body.

With on;y one front axle removed, the front diff spiders will be spinning very fast. Best to remove both to run RWD. Do not run RWD only with an auto trans (3at) the transfer clutches were not meant to take it, and will start to slip after the get too hot. If you have a 4spd, you can, but it's not a good idea really, the transfer output gear has very small teeth that engage it.

He won't need anythinig from over there at all. Although the Fuse holder over there is nice to reuse for the SPFI conversion power source.

It's a broken C/V. Do a Google or Wiki search for information about how a Differential works. 4wd swap is easy, bolt on from a 4wd model of same car. AWD swap is possible but will require a custom work. Modified linkage, shortened driveline, Turbo axles. Use the search tool.

You don't need anything except the MAF connector from over there. The large white wire and yellow wire are for power supply to the A/C. Cars without A/C have unused connector there. Cut out everthing but the MAF connector.

How bad of an explosion can occur from welding gas charged shocks? Hope we don't find out.

Before you spend more money and time on it, you should determine if the heads are cracked (very common in EA82t) UNbolt the motor and lift it a bit. Then, pull the uppipe and inspect the exhaust ports for cracks like this.

the internals of the new EJ trans are virtually identical to the old EA 5spds. Additionally, the older EA boxes have a large bearing at the front of the trans on the inputshaft. Even the single range EA5spds had it. (S/R EA 5spd, arguably the strongest) The bearing also serves as the slider for the throwout bearing. The EJ's don't have this. That's why EJ trans eat uppershaft bearings so much more frequently. And they have more throw out bearing issues too....because the bearing has to slide on soft aluminum, not a hardened steel surface. The question should be "why did they *downgrade* the transmissions for the U.S. market when they introduced the EJ?"

Problem is it is VERY hard to find that size anymore. lots of 165/80 and 175/70 and some 185/70. But I haven't been able to find a new set of 185/80/13 in the last few years.